Question on caulk

i used the VTS butyl tape under body joints and j-channel, then bought the putty with the crinkly paper from a local hardware store and used it on the windows. Seemed to work out really well - the softer, stickier stuff in the joints, and the firmer stuff behind the windows.

I just read all this about caulking and heard the resounding NO from everyone...so then tell me why when I go to my local RV store (Colerain) and tell them I just pulled, polished, resealed all my windows every guy working there ADAMANTLY tells me that "the butyl tape alone is NOT ENOUGH, the windows HAVE to be SEALED."

I argued, and they took me around the showroom and showed me all the new trailers that had the butyl tape and a bead of clear silicon caulk along the edges They said I needed to seal the edges of the brows and windows with ProFlex RV (clear silicone caulk).

Believe you me, after scraping 55 years of every sealer known to mankind off my windows, the last thing I wanted to hear was I needed to put more darn sealer back on them. And the consensus on here certainly seems to be that silicone especially...is the devil...(and that ProFlex RV is definitely silicone).

It's confusing though, when you read the boards, and then get that info from the RV "experts" at the centers?? Is this a regional thing? I live in Indiana..just confused about it...shed some light please!

I live in Indiana too - and that's where many of these vintage RVs (including our Shasta) were made. Just think: They didn't use any sort of silicone sealant when the trailers were put together new, and many have made it 40, 50 or more years with very minimal leaks. But look at ads for trailer made in the '80s and even '90s, and you'll often see extensive water damage. When I removed the old butyl tape from ours, much of it was still soft, so I can't imagine it needs any "protection" from modern silicone to stay that way today. Our own local RV repair/supply house (Alexander's, in Bloomington) said we did it right. They no longer sell RVs (just work on 'em) and have been in the business since the 1950s. They said the craftmanship in the vintage trailers was far superior to anything being made today - modern trailers won't be on the road 50 years from now (probably a good thing!) whereas many of ours still will. I say, don't mess with success!

I tell people that the trailer should be re-sealed (new putty tape) at least once every 10 to 15 years depending upon the environment. It really doesn't take that long for a job you only have to do maybe once or twice in your lifetime. If done right, your trailer should outlive you by a long shot.

By the way. The trailers of today are built so bad that if they didn't put calking on all the sealed areas it would leak it's first time out in the rain. And their roofs are made out of a membrane, and a thin one at that. They are MADE to fail. And under that thin membrane is chip board so as soon as the membrane fails, so does the chip board and repairs are $5k for a small area unless you have kept up with the annual roof maintenance required by the warrantee, which no one ever does so they have to pay the money or fix it themselves.

Please do not listen to those people. Our trailers are made with different materials and they are structurally completely different so nothing they can tell you will make sense to a vintage owner. You can buy parts from them but don't listen to any advice other than what they might tell you about the part you are buying. And even then it might not apply to a vintage trailer.

Keep in mind you must "seat" the J rail into the putty, especially at the top roof edges. A rubber hammer works well. If there are gaps between the putty and body, it is a leak waiting to happen. The freeze thaw cycle will enlarge those gaps and really let the water flow.

Also, the edge wood must be in good condition for the J rail screws to bite. The putty will ooze at each screw, telling you that the rail is properly installed.

My local RV store only stocks 1" and 1 3/8", also people ask about clean off the excess I like to use a plastic knife they work great.