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Post by vulcancowboy on Sept 27, 2013 4:13:25 GMT -8
Buy RV putty tape at your local RV store. It's not grooved as your link, but smooth. Or you can get butyl at VTS: www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Butyl_Putty_Tape_p/vts-419.htmRV putty tape is a mix and comes with crinkly paper. True Butyl has slick paper. I hot climates, butyl tends to ooze a lot more than RV putty tape. (which is often called butyl but isn't) Great! Thanks for the info.
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hoosierpoet
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Post by hoosierpoet on Sept 27, 2013 5:14:16 GMT -8
i used the VTS butyl tape under body joints and j-channel, then bought the putty with the crinkly paper from a local hardware store and used it on the windows. Seemed to work out really well - the softer, stickier stuff in the joints, and the firmer stuff behind the windows.
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Post by vikx on Sept 27, 2013 21:32:55 GMT -8
Good on ya, Hoosierpoet! Just today found the difference in terminology of putty tapes:
Standardj putty tape: the kind we've had for 50 years, tannish grey with crinkly paper.
RV Butyl putty: today's putty tape of choice, whiter, stickier and crinkly paper.
Butyl tape: REAL butyl tape, very sticky, slick paper.
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janesfaces
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Post by janesfaces on Oct 8, 2013 6:36:39 GMT -8
I just read all this about caulking and heard the resounding NO from everyone...so then tell me why when I go to my local RV store (Colerain) and tell them I just pulled, polished, resealed all my windows every guy working there ADAMANTLY tells me that "the butyl tape alone is NOT ENOUGH, the windows HAVE to be SEALED."
I argued, and they took me around the showroom and showed me all the new trailers that had the butyl tape and a bead of clear silicon caulk along the edges They said I needed to seal the edges of the brows and windows with ProFlex RV (clear silicone caulk).
Believe you me, after scraping 55 years of every sealer known to mankind off my windows, the last thing I wanted to hear was I needed to put more darn sealer back on them. And the consensus on here certainly seems to be that silicone especially...is the devil...(and that ProFlex RV is definitely silicone).
It's confusing though, when you read the boards, and then get that info from the RV "experts" at the centers?? Is this a regional thing? I live in Indiana..just confused about it...shed some light please!
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Post by bigbill on Oct 8, 2013 7:49:12 GMT -8
janesfaces I live in Ohio and every unit we ever bought new, the dealer always suggested coating the roof with sealer such as Koolseal and now they all suggest clear silicone caulk around the windows. I have never used the silicone around the windows but have always used KoolSeal on the roofs and have never had a leak or hail damage on any of them. The idea of not using them I first saw on these boards. I have a current unit that the PO sloped caulk everyplace and that is ridiculous, I do not plan on caulking any of my windows or other items, but I will plan on removing and resealing them in a few years (5 or 10) if I still own it. Their theory is the silicone keeps the butyl from drying out. Don't know if they are right or not.
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hoosierpoet
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Post by hoosierpoet on Oct 8, 2013 8:53:21 GMT -8
I live in Indiana too - and that's where many of these vintage RVs (including our Shasta) were made. Just think: They didn't use any sort of silicone sealant when the trailers were put together new, and many have made it 40, 50 or more years with very minimal leaks. But look at ads for trailer made in the '80s and even '90s, and you'll often see extensive water damage. When I removed the old butyl tape from ours, much of it was still soft, so I can't imagine it needs any "protection" from modern silicone to stay that way today. Our own local RV repair/supply house (Alexander's, in Bloomington) said we did it right. They no longer sell RVs (just work on 'em) and have been in the business since the 1950s. They said the craftmanship in the vintage trailers was far superior to anything being made today - modern trailers won't be on the road 50 years from now (probably a good thing!) whereas many of ours still will. I say, don't mess with success!
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janesfaces
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Post by janesfaces on Oct 8, 2013 9:36:34 GMT -8
Thanks Bigbill and Hoosierpoet, I really appreciate your input. It's confusing because obviously the butyl does fail at some point, hence the 14 thousand layers of caulk from PO's and the rotten wood inside, and near caved in side from rotted structure....but then again..it is 55 years old.
I too noticed that the original butyl tape still was soft, but obviously it did fail, or my trailer would still be free of water damage.
I guess my thought is (after being lectured by the RV dudes)...would it be so bad to run a tiny bead of clear caulk along the butyl seams, just as a safeguard? I know you all will send up a resounding "NO, not necessary, if it's sealed right" but...the bottom line is...at some point, the butyl seals do fail, or we wouldn't all be on here repairing all the water damage....just sayin....not to say that a little bead of caulk will stop that, but maybe...
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 8, 2013 12:39:19 GMT -8
I tell people that the trailer should be re-sealed (new putty tape) at least once every 10 to 15 years depending upon the environment. It really doesn't take that long for a job you only have to do maybe once or twice in your lifetime. If done right, your trailer should outlive you by a long shot.
By the way. The trailers of today are built so bad that if they didn't put calking on all the sealed areas it would leak it's first time out in the rain. And their roofs are made out of a membrane, and a thin one at that. They are MADE to fail. And under that thin membrane is chip board so as soon as the membrane fails, so does the chip board and repairs are $5k for a small area unless you have kept up with the annual roof maintenance required by the warrantee, which no one ever does so they have to pay the money or fix it themselves.
Please do not listen to those people. Our trailers are made with different materials and they are structurally completely different so nothing they can tell you will make sense to a vintage owner. You can buy parts from them but don't listen to any advice other than what they might tell you about the part you are buying. And even then it might not apply to a vintage trailer.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Oct 8, 2013 16:34:39 GMT -8
Our trailers are made with different materials and they are structurally completely different so nothing they can tell you will make sense to a vintage owner. You can buy parts from them but don't listen to any advice other than what they might tell you about the part you are buying. And even then it might not apply to a vintage trailer. So, be sure to come back here and ask.... As pointed out already, the construction was so different in a vintage trailer than a modern one, it is like comparing apples to oranges. I'm pretty sure they are trying to sell extra anything-they-can to pad their commissions, and probably also get a kickback from the manufacturers of all that silly-cone. That is not to mention that a lot of the sales people that I have dealt with when looking for parts have never even seen the interior of a vintage camper. Take it for what it is worth, a properly installed tape seal will do the trick just as it did when the trailer was built so many years ago.
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Post by vikx on Oct 8, 2013 21:38:51 GMT -8
Keep in mind you must "seat" the J rail into the putty, especially at the top roof edges. A rubber hammer works well. If there are gaps between the putty and body, it is a leak waiting to happen. The freeze thaw cycle will enlarge those gaps and really let the water flow.
Also, the edge wood must be in good condition for the J rail screws to bite. The putty will ooze at each screw, telling you that the rail is properly installed.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 9, 2013 6:07:58 GMT -8
Another little tip is to use One Inch wide putty tape for your J rail. That way you won't have those nasty little voids in between the mounting screws. Lately I've been using the one inch wide tape on everything. It's only a buck more per roll.
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Post by bigbill on Oct 9, 2013 6:48:53 GMT -8
My local RV store only stocks 1" and 1 3/8", also people ask about clean off the excess I like to use a plastic knife they work great.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 9, 2013 12:04:31 GMT -8
I use an ordinary razor knife. Have also used the plastic knives but they don't work as well in my opinion.
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