This weekend we finished up the walls. Glue and staples was used to secure 1/4 Birch plywood to the wall framing.
For some reason, the wall framing for the street side got a little out of shape. A bow developed in the base and things didn't quite line up. My solution was to used some parallel clamps to hold the walls together, then attach the 1/4" birch plywood to "lock in" the shape. After the glue dried, a router with a flush trim bit was used to remove the excess plywood from around the perimeter and to cut out the windows.
Next up will be the interior components: the kitchen, kitchen cabinet, bathroom walls, etc. I'm thinking about buying a new spray gun and spraying shellac on the walls and roof panels this time. Anyone have any experience with this? I'll be using an HVLP turbine sprayer.
I sprayed all of Scotty's birch before installing so I could have the panels lying flat on saw horses. Worked great. I thinned amber shellac by 50% and could do 4 coats a day, then 2 more coats of clear straight from the can. Used a regular cup gun. Many thin coats worked better than a few thick.. no runs or blotchy overlaps. You might want to do some test shots on cardboard or scrap plywood to get the flow right.
So four coats of amber thinned 50-50 (did you use Zinsser Bulls Eye?) and two of clear un-thinned is the total you sprayed on each panel? Did you have to clean the gun between coats? Thanks - don't want to hijack the thread but thinking this would be good knowledge for the future :-)
Indecision may or may not be my problem - Jimmy Buffett
PT, I didn't have to clean the gun between amber coats, all shot on the same day.Afterward I cleaned it by running denatured alcohol and left the tip in a jar of same, then fine sanded next day to remove any nubs which there were very few, and shot the clear. Probably didn't need the second coat. Yep, Zinsser seal coat. Big Blue box store raised the price on both (maybe it comes in a container ship stuck in some canal?} Ambient temp was low 70s when I shot, in a spray tent in the backyard and that probably helped lower the dry time.
It's been a while since my last update, but work has continued (slowly). This past weekend, I dry fitted some of the components to make sure my measurements were on point and to plan my next steps.
There will be general storage under the dinette seat on the left. The bench on the right will hold a battery under the rear access. There will be three doors on the front, behind which will be the electrical system components (breakers, fuses, converter/charger, etc), and maybe a little storage. Finally, I'm working on a base cabinet with three drawers that will fit between the bench and the rear wall.
Once I have a few more of the interior components complete, I will apply shellac, permanently install everything, and get the upper roof structure on. Rainy season is upon us here in South Florida, which makes things a little challenging. The structural components and the upper roof have to be installed quickly so that I can cover everything with tarps and protect them from the afternoon storms. After the main structure is up, I will finish the rest of the interior, wiring, and plumbing. Hopefully we won't have any hurricanes!
On another topic, my marker lights finally arrived!!
Last Edit: Jun 16, 2021 16:40:12 GMT -8 by pdalber
Exciting to get the wall up even for a dry fit. I hope you reach your goal before the rains come. Something to consider is since you will be covering the trailer with a tarp, take a tennis ball and put it on the end of a stick and stick it up through the roof vent hole to allow the rain to not puddle on tip. You will create a pitch to allow the water to run off. Larry has recommended this. I would add a layer of thick plastic sheeting under a tarp just for insurance. Tarps can leak between the weaving.
You will have a fine trailer when you are finished. You do good work.
Are you having any thoughts about how you will line up the two walls with each other?
"I get that queasy how in the hell will this thing ever go back together feeling.” - PT
Both walls are built and are virtually identical (except for the window locations). I was just planning on measuring everything as closely as possible and squaring things up. My main concern was how to frame and rebuild the upper bed. The original construction had rotted away and was litterally a pile of dust, so I don't have a template for the rebuild.
I finished up the base cabinet today, and attached it to the bench seat, I'm pretty happy with the way it came out. I used Maple for the trim, thinking it will hold up better than softer woods. Hopefully it will look good with shellc.
Any suggestions on which drawer slides to use? I know they're not period, but I was thinking of using (modern) full extension side-mounted slides. It's not too late to go a different route though.
I think whatever you choose will be fine. People don't look at your drawer slides to discover if the trailer is vintage or not! LOL. Also, slides sometimes work a little too well, so be sure to figure a catch or latch into the equation...
An addendum on spraying shellac: I've replaced the cup gun with an HVLP set-up and after some practice I'm sold on this method.. very little overspray, no compressor hose to drag around, and a bunch of other reasons.
It's been a while since my last update, but we were back at it today. We put down the Marmoleum flooring. It might not seem like a lot, but it was about 110 degrees down here in South Florida. I'm hoping the high temps won't impact the adhesion or damage the floor - I guess we'll see.
Once we were done, I needed a little inspiration. So we dry-fitted some of the interior component that have been taking up space in my garage.