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Post by universalexports on Sept 4, 2014 17:46:32 GMT -8
a home depot near me says they still have 10 in stock, maybe the stores haven't sold out yet, I doubt many buy them. I better go get them.
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Post by universalexports on Sept 4, 2014 17:44:12 GMT -8
really? I bought these about a year ago, good thing I bought enough (I think).
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Post by universalexports on Sept 4, 2014 16:29:14 GMT -8
I got mine at lowes, seems like they were kind of in a different area than the other nails,
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Post by universalexports on Aug 29, 2014 15:40:01 GMT -8
does the Shasta 19 have air conditioning? I didnt see any place for it, honestly that one did make me perk my ears up.
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Post by universalexports on Aug 28, 2014 11:34:27 GMT -8
how is anyone suppose to sleep on that rear bed, it is way short.
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Post by universalexports on Aug 20, 2014 11:39:30 GMT -8
1st thing is to consider your level of experience repairing trailers, lots of tools, saws, equipment is required plus the knowledge of how to use them safely and do proper work.
can you do the work? or afford to pay someone else to. do you know someone who can? can you afford all the required materials needed for the repair. can you wait 1,2 or 5 years to go camping. can you find time in your schedule to fit in the many many hours needed to do the repairs.
or would it be wiser to look around and be patient and find one in better condition?
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Post by universalexports on Aug 19, 2014 15:27:24 GMT -8
more pics!!!! that thing looks super nice, love the truck too!!! great find!
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Post by universalexports on Aug 19, 2014 13:32:18 GMT -8
so with that, all you would need would be snatch block anchored to the floor, the winch under the camper and a place to hook the line back to the camper under it somewhere? or vise versa with the winch mounted in the garage, (I think I would prefer that way)so all you need to do to the camper was rig up a place to connect a snatch block.
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Post by universalexports on Aug 19, 2014 9:00:05 GMT -8
True, but in your your 1st post you only mentioned the use of a block (snatch block) which is nothing more than a wheel with a hook that you run the cable through and back to the vehicle or stationary object to get more cable off the winch. think we are talking about 2 different things.
with a block and tackle (wheel with different sized pulleys to give a mechanical advantage) she could use that and actually pull it in by hand, I have an old one of those I use to hoist engines out of vehicles by hand.
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Post by universalexports on Aug 19, 2014 7:08:54 GMT -8
agreed a small winch is all you really need, and if you go with a more economical winch I would take the cover off the top and spray silicone the electrical components, this is a common practice for many people, one of the major issues with cheaper winches is the electrical parts rusting from rain and water. also as mentioned it is true a block will multiply the load capacity of a winch. very true, however the block it's self offers no mechanical advantage for the winch, it just allows you to spool more cable off the winch reducing its circumference so the motor doesnt have to turn such a tall amount of cable, (better gearing basically) or what would work better in your case since you will be pulling the camper up near your hook point in the floor would be to just cut off the excess cable so you only have enough on the spool to reach your hook after your camper is backed up, kind of a single use setup but thats all you need. just be sure sure to leave at least 5 wraps of cable on the winch so you dont pull the cable out of it. (I leave 8 wraps when I'm towing far off just to be safe)
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Post by universalexports on Aug 18, 2014 18:19:53 GMT -8
when it comes to winches nothing beats a Warn winch, top rated all the way around, with winches you kind of get what you pay for, with it not being out in the elements you might get away with something cheaper, Warn winches arent cheap,but i'd bet one of their 3,000 pound ATV winches would be more than enough to pull a small trailer like that around, if this is the type of winch you are talking about, I guess you could just put a 12 volt battery on the floor and anchor the winch to something in the garage or into the concrete maybe.
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Post by universalexports on Aug 7, 2014 17:28:58 GMT -8
The search feature here is not the best, (I wish you could limit a search to a specific area of the board) my suggestion is try to use odd words that arent that common but are relevant to your search,
I usually just go to the area that pertains to my question, and go through the threads a page at a time. if all else fails post up a topic and ask a question.
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Post by universalexports on Aug 5, 2014 17:18:43 GMT -8
just paint them, many use the old vintage stuff, you really need them, it will take so much of the "wiggle" and "shake" out of the trailer while you are camping.
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Post by universalexports on Aug 5, 2014 17:05:43 GMT -8
is it low on top on that side as well? I would remove the top hinge from the cabinet,(leave the hinge screwed into the door) take the top screw out of the bottom hinge on the cabinet side, then have someone hold the door where it should be or mark it with tape or something that can be removed, and drill new holes for the top hinge, the old holes will now be behind the door and out of site, and the top hole on the bottom hing you might be able to re-use or move that screw over a bit as well.
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Post by universalexports on Aug 5, 2014 15:41:35 GMT -8
hope to score a few parts if they will sell them, screen door, Shasta emblem, maybe the new style windows, still not sold on them. the flicker LED light would be cool as well.
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