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Post by universalexports on Jul 5, 2013 15:11:41 GMT -8
well, I attempted to cut down my 12x12 tiles to 9x9, and happy to report it was a success. I have a flooring cutter I got from a pawn shop for $70.00 I then built a guide 9 inches from the blade to make perfect repeatable 9x9 cuts each time, it seems to work perfect. and the cut edges are smoother than the factory cuts. here are some pics. 12x12 tiles ready to cut down2 sides cut so it is now 9x9
4 pieces cut to 9x9
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Post by universalexports on Jul 5, 2013 11:23:20 GMT -8
well, that was quick, 6 days from when I ordered my floor tiles. I had to lay a few out to see how they look, I am going to cut them down to 9x9 inches. or at least I think I am, I am going to cut a couple and see how it goes.
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Post by universalexports on Jul 4, 2013 12:58:38 GMT -8
This one has the chrome spare tire cover like I will have, I found one on Ebay (they didnt know what it fit) for $26.00 and it will just fit a shasta spare, I plan on not having the inside cover, just a white wall tire with center cap.
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Post by universalexports on Jul 2, 2013 17:19:04 GMT -8
good info for the do-it-yourselfer.
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Post by universalexports on Jun 30, 2013 16:49:33 GMT -8
I agree, have some one come out and weld it, then drive home really slowly, might consider some reinforcing steel inside the C channel as well. a good welder can tell you what it needs probably.
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Post by universalexports on Jun 30, 2013 12:07:34 GMT -8
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Post by universalexports on Jun 30, 2013 9:28:34 GMT -8
something I have thought about is buying one of his aluminum emblems, polishing it to a chrome like shine, then coating it with sharkhide, it will protect it for years.
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Post by universalexports on Jun 29, 2013 18:50:02 GMT -8
no but I was in contact with the guy about 2 weeks ago, he was getting a few in the next week. I lucked out and found a near perfect one on ebay.
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Post by universalexports on Jun 28, 2013 18:42:58 GMT -8
hay hay, WELCOME!! It's a new forum but give it some time, it will grow on you
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Post by universalexports on Jun 28, 2013 8:43:34 GMT -8
best to use a new box, thats the only way I know how to do it, the power from outside comes into a lug, and each breaker clicks into the lug rail, this puts power to the breakers, then whre it comes out of the breakers goes to the lines to the outlets in the camper. the white and copper wires go to a buss bar, one for each usually, I am not good at electric either, but someone will chime in.
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Post by universalexports on Jun 27, 2013 17:22:33 GMT -8
Ideally, new putty is all it should take. That is all that was used on new construction when they were built. As far as caulk goes, the answer would be NO.Caulking is usually regarded as a huge "No-No". The day will come that it will need resealing, or some other reason to have to open it back up and the caulk will become just a time-consuming nightmare to remove. What he said!!!
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Post by universalexports on Jun 26, 2013 5:09:45 GMT -8
Congrats on your purchase, looks like it will need a lot of work, interior walls, etc, as for the price, it depends how much you are going to do yourself, doing the labor yourself will save thousands. and what level of restore you are wanting. it can range from $2,000 - $8,000. vintage parts in great shape can get expensive, $250.00 for a perfect door handle, $75.00 for a like new water fill, or a $100.00 for a like new shasta emblem, etc.
I would start looking for new parts now even if you arent ready to use them and snag the deals.
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Post by universalexports on Jun 24, 2013 13:26:00 GMT -8
not sure, I havent bought mine yet, but I went to their website and downloaded their catalog (PDF file) and that is what the pic is from.
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Post by universalexports on Jun 24, 2013 11:11:10 GMT -8
Here is a very nicely restored Shasta that was on Ebay a while back. I prettied it up a bit with photoshop.
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Post by universalexports on Jun 24, 2013 10:14:16 GMT -8
SHALL-WE-PLAY-A-GAME
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