Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Nov 4, 2016 12:42:02 GMT -8
Holy cow! I hit the mother load of lumber yards. If you need birch or even ash ply (not stocked but they can order), this is the place. Not cheap, but they carry just about any kind of plywood or lumber you can imagine. Okoume, cherry, mahogany, maple, etc.... Baltic birch... Tons of rough cut lumber, slabs, exotics.. I'm giddy right now. :thumbup: :thumbup: :cool: Anyways grabbing a burger and headed the 3 hours home.
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Nov 3, 2016 17:38:13 GMT -8
Excellent. "there is going to be a point where the teardrop is too small..." Once you're in a full size vintage camper there is no going back. Yeah. I'm afraid of that. Although the CEO is all for keeping the teardrop. When I first bought the shasta, I said I would get rid of the other camper because of space/storage issue.. but she quickly said NO keep it. OK. Wish me luck tomorrow. I'm going to get 1/8 birch after work tomorrow in Summerville, SC. it's about 2 hours from where I work (about 3 hours or so from home). I found a local supplier up there that is supposed to have it for 62 bucks a sheet. I thought I had another source closer today, but as it turns out they are just as high. I think it may bave been the same supplier you used, Darlington Veneer ? Anywho.. 20 sheets min, and shipping was going to run about $1300 !!!!! Anyways. Off to bed, up early, work, plywood.. hoping to get some stuff done on Sat.
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Nov 3, 2016 17:30:28 GMT -8
Make sure that you will have enough road clearance if you have a caster jack on all the time. I prefer a removable caster that I put on when I want and remove when towing. I have seen casters force the coupler off the ball going over a hump like a driveway entrance. Not trying to be bossy just making suggestions. That seems like a very obvious issue.. THAT I HAD NOT thought of. I will make sure that the one I get is removeable. Thanks for the other suggestion. I checked at TS a while back, but will check when I'm out that way, maybe this weekend.
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Nov 3, 2016 10:17:06 GMT -8
I'm in the exact same predicament with a 62 airflyte. I was told a 1000lb Fulton jack (side crank) with a 1 7/8 tube... But I haven't found one yet.
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Nov 3, 2016 8:51:47 GMT -8
Welcome! Good advice above. Don't do any demo until you do a lot of research no matter how handy you are. You may already know this, but don't try to repair things from the inside. Almost always repairs have to be done from the outside working in. Check out the videos done by a member at cannedhamtrailers.com And I strongly recommend a book written by vikx, a member, it has some great photos and instructions. PM vikx for more info. Old threads are also a great resource. Does your friend have any other 50s hams he is giving away? Members from far and wide would drive there for a camper like yours! Have fun. Yes, ALL of this. And 2nd. You have made out like a bandit! Congrats and good luck, and of course, photos or it didn't happen . We love to see progress around here.
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Oct 30, 2016 7:38:15 GMT -8
I hacked a $30 Heng Vortex fan into my existing aluminum vent. Works great. I'm. Glad you posted that. I just came inside from scraping the gunk off mine so that I can remove it. I've got to repair the cam pieces that make it go up and down, but otherwise it's in good shape. I'm definitely going to go the route you took. Looks great to me.
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Oct 30, 2016 5:57:05 GMT -8
A little background before i get started on things. This is my first restoration, but not my first experience with trailers. I have build a teardrop(ish) trailer for the family of 4. If interested you can see that here. Also, I am almost complete with a teardrop for my mom and dad. We need to put the skin on it and finish things up with the galley. I have a full youtube video series on that here. Having said that, there is going to be a point where the teardrop is too small for us, and we really like vintage trailers... so I went on the casual search for something mid 60's or older and a good candidate for restore popped up back in March. Long story short, we brought it home from about 6 hours away (looking back that trip was terrifying compared to the way my current trailer pulls). I've just not gotten the time to work on it. I don't have a cover, building, or other way to work inside, so everything will happen mobiltec style under a tarp, wrapped up like a diaper at the end of the day. Yesterday we got to work on demo on the back. There are 3 areas that need work, the front - L and R, from the windows down. The back, curb side mainly. The roof vent panel above the stove (I hope that's all). I have't gotten into the floor yet, so that's another ballgame, but if i have to replace that I will do what I have to to make it right. Here's some photos of yesterday. Awning and J rail off. IMG_20161029_122738 by gunguy05, on Flickr These ARE PRICELESS! I pulled all of the nails on the edge of the skin out easy peasy.. and they worked great for the 5 % or so of the screws that were stripped. IMG_20161029_133259 by gunguy05, on Flickr took the tire off IMG_20161029_153631 by gunguy05, on Flickr Took the lights and plate bracket off IMG_20161029_160010 by gunguy05, on Flickr Back window off IMG_20161029_162154 by gunguy05, on Flickr Don't forget these screws IMG_20161029_162200 by gunguy05, on Flickr The back middle/lower panel only have 3 nails holding it on. It practically fell off. IMG_20161029_163142 by gunguy05, on Flickr Another view. The lower right panel is the worst of it. IMG_20161029_163835 by gunguy05, on Flickr That's it for now. I spent about 4 hours getting to this point yesterday. I will be starting a write up on my blog pretty soon (if I can find the time) about the entire process. Also, video of a good part of it on my youtube channel.
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Oct 20, 2016 7:07:07 GMT -8
Thanks for the review of this. I am looking to replace (I think) just the front piece on my camper. I came across a friend of a friend who is looking at campers, and he came to look at mine a few weeks ago. Come to find out he has an 8 ft brake. I'm hoping we can replicate the 6" brakes in mine. Before he and I spoke, the HD rental was my next best option if I couldn't get up to TN to pickup some stuff from the guy up there that manufactures. I figure a few low degree breaks shouldn't be that difficult to replicate. It's the bottom piece on my shasta, so no S locks to deal with.
Thanks, Brian
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Sept 30, 2016 20:22:50 GMT -8
I have one of the Columbia Forest products sheets at my house, but I don't think I'm going to use it. I originally thought it was pretty good, but I just don't like the stoutness of out. It is REALLY bendable, much more than a normal 1/8 panel (of any wood) should be to provide the adequate structure to support things. It might work, but Ijust think i'm going to bite the bullet and pay about the same price as Hammond ($62 bucks) from a supplier in Summerville, SC. I have gone over and over, and over this in my head... but this is what I've FINALLY decided on. The way I figure it is that is the part of the camper that I'm going to sleep next to at night (and therefore look at if the lights are on). I want it to look right, and I want it to be strong... THe difference in price will be long forgotten when it is all over with, is structurally sound, and looks correct. Just me 2 cents... Hmmm, interesting. Do you think the 1/8" from Columbia would stand up if I'm using 1/4" on the walls, and then use the 1/8" just on the radius (front, rear and where need be on the roof panels), using extra framing on the roof, and use a 1/4" sheet in the panel where the fan vent goes would provide enough rigidity? Ha. ha. That is EXACTLY what my plan was going to be if I didn't buy the $$ stuff. I would say it's a great plan "B" if you want to take that route. I know the 1/4 (which is really 3/16th ish) Columbia stuff they sell in stock at HD, is nice looking stuff. If you want to go that route, I think that might work for the vent panel (mine is bad as well), and the sides. I don't know if the increase in plywood thickness on the sides /ends will affect the attachment to the wall enough to make the room skin not fit back on... or may cause other problems... this was my worry. It may or may not, maybe others will chime in here. As far as the stoutness for the curve. You might could add additional framing of 1x material in that area and get away with it.. just have to try it I guess. As far as matching visually, the piece of 1/8 beding I bought had more "flame" to it than the 1/4 stuff at HD.. not sure if the shellac will take care of that or not. I did a little test piece with shellac, and while not perfectly clear, the tones did seem to match the original, and there is a little "grain" to the original, so I think that aspect of it will work. If we could readily get 1/8 in the SE... this wouldn't be such an issue!!!! Those in the NW don't know how good they have it!
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Sept 30, 2016 11:43:25 GMT -8
Hammond Lumber Company, which has 13 locations in mid- coastal- and southern Maine can get it. It's a special order and around $65/sheet. The man I spoke with is Paul Mahan at the Bangor location. That said, I'm still going to try the Columbia Forest Products sheets from Home Depot for almost 1/3 the price. I have one of the Columbia Forest products sheets at my house, but I don't think I'm going to use it. I originally thought it was pretty good, but I just don't like the stoutness of out. It is REALLY bendable, much more than a normal 1/8 panel (of any wood) should be to provide the adequate structure to support things. It might work, but Ijust think i'm going to bite the bullet and pay about the same price as Hammond ($62 bucks) from a supplier in Summerville, SC. I have gone over and over, and over this in my head... but this is what I've FINALLY decided on. The way I figure it is that is the part of the camper that I'm going to sleep next to at night (and therefore look at if the lights are on). I want it to look right, and I want it to be strong... THe difference in price will be long forgotten when it is all over with, is structurally sound, and looks correct. Just me 2 cents...
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Sept 29, 2016 12:02:56 GMT -8
Thanks y'all. I ended up getting the HF ones because I don't know that we'll ever use them again. I've only had them two days but they've already saved our project from falling apart and saved us a day of work. So I think the moral of the story is a higher-quality compressor / staple gun is better than HF, but any air stapler is better than none! I believe you got it! Harbor freight tools work great for the do it yourselfer that only uses them in a non production situation doing medium duty work. As I said above I have all types of tools some expensive, some not so and I have found a cheap hammer will drive a nail better than a rock. What was that famous proverb "Better to have cheap tool than no tool." I agree. Some of their stuff has been bad for me, but a lot of it is good. I especially like the descent tools, that do a very specific job, that I don't use that much. Those are the ones that I can't afford/justify buying the $$ brand tool. Having said that, I tried out their 18ga nailer as my first "nail gun" I have drive 1000's of porter cable crown staples with it and I can't remember one ever misfiring (unless I hit a screw or a knot). Good stuff.
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Sept 25, 2016 18:02:13 GMT -8
I have the Jr. And have drilled hundreds of with it. If you drop it in on a had surface, the adjustable tabs on the sides will break pretty easily....ask me how I know.
I like the full size version with the built in clap, just can't get past having to stand long boards up vertically in it to drill the holes, I don't know, maybe it's just me? I will stick with the the Jr for now.
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Sept 25, 2016 17:08:23 GMT -8
Fantastic Fan offers free parts on all but the Creative Breeze model. I've called them out of the blue for a replacement lid on a boxed Fantastic (5 years in storage) and they paid shipping to get me a new lid in 3 days... NO QUESTIONS ASKED. Great company to deal with and reliable Fans. Yeah...I hear that a lot...but I can replace this one 4-5 times for the price of the fantastic fan. I'm not building a rally queen, just trying to get something I can camp in. I just thought of somethings, I might take the fan apart in my teardrop and see who the manufacturer is if the fan itself. Surely it's something that I can find a comperable fan motor model to online. If so, I bet there is a way to retrofit it in the old vent..hummmmmm......
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Sept 22, 2016 2:38:55 GMT -8
Keep us posted on this. I really like our FV in the teardrop, but yeah $170 buck ain't cheap (and it's constantly out of stock for the "vintage" one. If I could make something like this work well, I would definitely go that route. Our vent won't go up or down, but it looks pretty simple and should be something that I could fix once I get into it. I would look at the first one you posted, that second one definitly looks a little "weak". Having said that my wife likes the fan noise to sleep by, it drowns out everything else. The fantastic vent REALLY moves some air.
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Sept 22, 2016 2:34:04 GMT -8
Looks like you did a fantastic job. I really like that AC in that location. If I don't do a portable unit in the closet, I'm really leaning towards doing the same thing.
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