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Post by danrhodes on Jan 5, 2016 15:26:23 GMT -8
Our cabinets mostly had sliders that were covered in contact paper, and had the original "gold dust" formica underneath, which the wife hates. This means I get to build about 8 separate doors with hinges and latches.
Looking at the kitchen doors, they seem to be 1/4" plywood with 1/8" skin. Is this how you guys would do it? Seems a bit thin to get a hinge to mount.
Also thinking of just covering some of the holes, like the ones under the rear bunk and dinette seats. Any creative ways to cover a hole except for reskinning the whole side (have a minimum quantity of recycled ash that I can use for repairs/doors and access covers).
Finally, any tricks for saving delaminating veneer? At least one of the drawer faces is coming apart...can I just glue, clamp and sand?
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 5, 2016 16:51:59 GMT -8
Funny you mention this because I'm fixing doors right now. I had the same issue of veneer delaminating on a few doors. The doors are solid enough just that thin skin of veneer coming undone. It's 28 degrees here so I have doors everywhere inside the house.  Without breaking the veneer, spread it gently and force glue in then clamp it. I've done it before with very good results. On one corner I'm using a trick I think SusieQ suggested a long time ago. I peels old veneer from a door I'm replacing and glued it in place. It was oversized and I trimmed it with a sheetrock knife after the glue dried. I still have to sand and finish but for a lower door I think it will be fine.  I made one new door using 3/4” birch plywood. I used a router on the edges (just as Shasta did) to create a 3/8” notch (wrong word) for the door to sit in the opening. If you’re interested I’ll post photos tomorrow. I can also post photos of my 62 Forester doors If you are curious about different design. |
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Post by danrhodes on Jan 5, 2016 16:58:00 GMT -8
I made one new door using 3/4” birch plywood. I used a router on the edges (just as Shasta did) to create a 3/8” notch (wrong word) for the door to sit in the opening. If you’re interested I’ll post photos tomorrow. I can also post photos of my 62 Forester doors If you are curious about different design. Please do post the photos when you get a chance. Thanks. |
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HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Jan 5, 2016 17:29:58 GMT -8
I made mine with 1x2 frame and made the front our of 1/4" birch. Kept them light and provided enough 'meat' for the handles and hinges to attached.
Here are a couple of pictures:
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 5, 2016 18:21:55 GMT -8
HeavyD, That looks a lot like our Forester cabinets but I think the panel may be a little thicker. I'll check tomorrow.
If I had to replace more than one door that's the way I might go.
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Post by danrhodes on Jan 5, 2016 18:59:29 GMT -8
I made mine with 1x2 frame and made the front our of 1/4" birch. Kept them light and provided enough 'meat' for the handles and hinges to attached.
Here are a couple of pictures:
Those look great. Do you have a photo of how the hinges attach? |
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Post by vikx on Jan 5, 2016 21:48:27 GMT -8
Dan, some Shastas used different wood for the doors, cabinet framing and drawers. A VERY interesting combination in my 57 Deluxe. (red and white and tan)
Anyway, doors that won't show (dinettes) can be made of pine or something that makes you happy. I'm guessing you might even find ash in thicker panels...
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 6, 2016 11:44:43 GMT -8
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Post by danrhodes on Jan 6, 2016 13:23:50 GMT -8
Very interesting. The common thread seems to be a thinner front panel with: 1. A frame built behind 2. Another smaller panel glued to the back 3. Frame and rear skin (hollow). 4. Routed version of #2 My router is not up to the task and hollow seems unnecessary, so I'll probably go the Forrester/ HeavyD route. Thanks for all of your advice and photos everyone.
Still curious how the hinges attach to the back of those doors HeavyD ...guessing something like this:  |
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Post by danrhodes on Jan 6, 2016 14:16:32 GMT -8
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 6, 2016 14:51:56 GMT -8
I doubt it.
You won't know for sure until your first road trip.
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novrmyhed
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Post by novrmyhed on Jan 6, 2016 15:42:03 GMT -8
I made mine with 1x2 frame and made the front our of 1/4" birch. Kept them light and provided enough 'meat' for the handles and hinges to attached.
Here are a couple of pictures:
Those look great. Do you have a photo of how the hinges attach? I too would like to see how the hinges are attached. I really like the overall simplicity in design of the doors. I am almost to that point in my project and have been considering ideas. |
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Post by danrhodes on Jan 6, 2016 15:51:17 GMT -8
Those look great. Do you have a photo of how the hinges attach? I too would like to see how the hinges are attached. I really like the overall simplicity in design of the doors. I am almost to that point in my project and have been considering ideas. Your username perfectly describes me (and my cheap tools) when talking about fine woodworking, but even I can probably cut a rectangle. |
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HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Jan 6, 2016 17:44:08 GMT -8
Funny, I have hundreds of pictures of the trailer and I cannot find any of the back of the doors with the hinges on. Too cold and dark outside to get them tonight. I'll take a couple in the next day or so and post.
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