HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Jan 7, 2016 18:05:11 GMT -8
Here is the hinge side:
Here is the latch side:
The screws above and below the latch are for the handle on the other side.
Hope this helps.
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novrmyhed
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Post by novrmyhed on Jan 7, 2016 18:32:40 GMT -8
Here is the hinge side:
Here is the latch side:
The screws above and below the latch are for the handle on the other side.
Hope this helps. Thanks HeavyD! It does help greatly. Any idea the overlay on the hinge?
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Post by danrhodes on Jan 7, 2016 18:38:32 GMT -8
Also, does the frame on the back recess into the cabinet opening? How "thick" is the door from the cabinet face?
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novrmyhed
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Post by novrmyhed on Jan 7, 2016 19:24:48 GMT -8
Also, does the frame on the back recess into the cabinet opening? How "thick" is the door from the cabinet face? Dan, looking at the pictures on the previous page, the frame does appear to recess into the cabinet. It looks as though on the quarter inch sits only the cabinet face itself.
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Post by danrhodes on Jan 7, 2016 19:26:11 GMT -8
Also, does the frame on the back recess into the cabinet opening? How "thick" is the door from the cabinet face? Dan, looking at the pictures on the previous page, the frame does appear to recess into the cabinet. It looks as though on the quarter inch sits on the cabinet face itself. I assumed so but the angle of the photo had me question it. I'd also like to know the hinge offset used and where to get them.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 8, 2016 6:30:29 GMT -8
You may have to find out what offset is available and rip the wood to fit the hinge.
My Forester cabinets recess at the frame and are 1/4" panel with about a 3/4" frame. But the hinges (photo previously posted) are different.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 8, 2016 9:04:33 GMT -8
Nc you do beautiful work... I'm really glad you answered Dan for this thread. I don't really have any photos of my doors but will be doing a video soon for a big one. But size is not the point.
Dan you can get a great multi speed router at HF for about $70. I love mine because I can slow it down and use it for metal also. The router is not the expensive part. It's the bits that add up to money.
Yes the Forester was built by a boat company on the east coast who made trailers in the off season. The owner of the Forester I was working on was fortunate enough to have met and talked to a man who worked for the company. He was about 91 years old. When I was working on the trailer I mentioned to the owner that it looked like it was built by a boat company because of the way some things were made. I worked on boats before I worked on my first trailer back in the 70s. That's when he mentioned that he had met a worker from the company.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 8, 2016 10:06:49 GMT -8
Thanks Mobiltec, I appreciate the compliment a lot. I enjoy working on the campers more than renovating houses because if I mess up it doesn't bankrupt me. And it's a heck of a lot more fun than office work.
I think you have a video on routering the skin. I haven't given it much attention because I've only used snips or a multi tool but that will change on the next camper. The router needs to be a certain speed to do the skin? I guess I should watch the video.
(Hijacked thread)
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 8, 2016 10:16:47 GMT -8
Thanks Mobiltec, I appreciate the compliment a lot. I enjoy working on the campers more than renovating houses because if I mess up it doesn't bankrupt me. And it's a heck of a lot more fun than office work. I think you have a video on routering the skin. I haven't given it much attention because I've only used snips or a multi tool but that will change on the next camper. The router needs to be a certain speed to do the skin? I guess I should watch the video. (Hijacked thread) I have the HF variable speed router and use it on the number three setting for metal. Works great. I'll be doing another video on that very soon and will let you know when it's up. End Hijack...
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Post by danrhodes on Jan 8, 2016 13:11:44 GMT -8
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bbiwer
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Post by bbiwer on Jan 8, 2016 13:55:36 GMT -8
Thank you in advance people, this post is going to be gold for me when I finally get to building my interior.
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HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Jan 8, 2016 17:36:00 GMT -8
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tikimitch
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Post by tikimitch on Feb 24, 2016 8:11:09 GMT -8
HeavyD - i really like the doors with the framing behind - question, what do you do to round over the edges to get rid of the sharp edge from the plywood? I was thinking of using a small round-over bit in the router but setting it high so that it just nips off the edge?
Also, on a somewhat related note, I have built new cabinets for my trailer and was wondering what everyone does for the corners where the veneer comes together. I just used butt joints on the corners so from one side you can see the plys in the plywood veneer. Should I just shellac that like the rest of the cabinets and if so, does it blend in well enough? Or should I find some sort of edge moulding to cover it?
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Post by danrhodes on Feb 24, 2016 8:26:42 GMT -8
HeavyD - i really like the doors with the framing behind - question, what do you do to round over the edges to get rid of the sharp edge from the plywood? I was thinking of using a small round-over bit in the router but setting it high so that it just nips off the edge? Also, on a somewhat related note, I have built new cabinets for my trailer and was wondering what everyone does for the corners where the veneer comes together. I just used butt joints on the corners so from one side you can see the plys in the plywood veneer. Should I just shellac that like the rest of the cabinets and if so, does it blend in well enough? Or should I find some sort of edge moulding to cover it? With my router, the birch layer chips out, so I use course sandpaper to round the edges. For cabinet edges, good carpenters will use corner molding, but my camper just had the rounded over plywood shellacked. It fades into the corner edge so you don't noticed it's ply core material.
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tikimitch
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Post by tikimitch on Feb 24, 2016 8:54:03 GMT -8
Thanks danrhodes - I tried rounding over with sandpaper on some test pieces (for the cabinet edges) and thought it would work but wondered if there was a better way. i built the cabinets from old door skins that I bought at a local thrift store - I got 13 doors for $36 bucks - not all of the skins are usable but most are - they have a nice color. I sanded them a little and applied two coats of amber and two coats of clear shellac.
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