66shasta
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Post by 66shasta on Jan 7, 2016 20:57:58 GMT -8
Yeah, nccamper...something like that!
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 7, 2016 21:15:45 GMT -8
You'll want to invest in a shrinker stretcher then.
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Post by vikx on Jan 7, 2016 22:11:21 GMT -8
I think that type of roof will work but you need to frame for the seams. Once you get the metal, be sure you have a rafter or cross board at each seam. I like to use butyl at the overlap and screws to attach to the framing. Also, be sure to shim the vent area. The vent will give you a good anchor point for the roof metal as well as the edges. .40 won't be easy to work with but it can be done. Your trailer is flatter than hams, so the roof will lay well. Also, be sure to plan ahead on the rear roof seam. I recently did a 66 Kit roof with that type of seam in the rear. MAJOR leaking point. I slipped an extra piece of metal up under and curved it over the back, then laid the original roof over that. I used a sturdy piece of trim (butyl tape) and screwed it to the rafter to cover the seam. I don't believe that area will leak again. I have some photos here: 66kittrailer.shutterfly.com/pictures Scroll thru the albums; the rear seam is there. Back of the roof metal was a mess, so the piece under will take care of any potential leaks.
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66shasta
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Post by 66shasta on Jan 9, 2016 20:33:32 GMT -8
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66shasta
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Post by 66shasta on Jan 9, 2016 20:37:16 GMT -8
Now it is on to the roof. I hope to get back up there Monday evening and do some playing. I did make a few phone calls for the roof material I mentioned previously, and I can get a piece of it long enough to cover the roof from the window top up front to the window top in the rear, plus a foot for good measure, for right at $300. That fits into my financial plan, more so than a grand for a roof from Hemet.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jan 9, 2016 21:10:02 GMT -8
Another place to consider. They are in the South and came recommended by Tyler Wings. I've never ordered from them but their prices are excellent. www.chcamper.com/products/aluminum-camper-siding$130 for a 14' length of skin if you pick it up. That may include the locks.
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66shasta
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Post by 66shasta on Jan 9, 2016 21:24:39 GMT -8
Another place to consider. They are in the South and came recommended by Tyler Wings. I've never ordered from them but their prices are excellent. www.chcamper.com/products/aluminum-camper-siding$130 for a 14' length of skin if you pick it up. That may include the locks. That's fair enough!
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 9, 2016 21:26:47 GMT -8
I think they are in TN.
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66shasta
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Post by 66shasta on Jan 9, 2016 21:41:36 GMT -8
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Post by vikx on Jan 9, 2016 21:59:18 GMT -8
The rot isn't bad at all. I think this is going to be a great trailer build and will teach you a lot...
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 10, 2016 8:49:44 GMT -8
The rot isn't bad at all. I think this is going to be a great trailer build and will teach you a lot... Yep this one has a lot less rot than many that I have worked on. You still need to replace the rot that does exist but you have less of it than I usually do.
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66shasta
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Post by 66shasta on Jan 25, 2016 20:35:57 GMT -8
Well, we are way past due for an update on this. We tore into it and got the entire outer skin off a few weeks back, and found that the pictures I posted of the curbside was for sure the worst rot that we have got. The roadside is better than any of us expected...and we are not upset at all about that. I got back up there with my 10 year old tonight, and we got busy making the replacement framing pieces for the curbside. The wheel arch was cut from a 1x6, and the rest we just used 1x2's on. I see that the lowermost piece will need to be remade from a cut down 1x3 (or larger), so that the metal wraps it correctly, but otherwise I see no reason that the 1x2 framing won't work just fine. We got all but the rearmost piece made and drilled on the Kreg Jig and screwed into place...MUCH more stout than the cheesy stapled together mediocreness that Shasta let them out the door with! We stopped at the door frame, because I want to make it from a 1x4. So, next week I hope to get the rear piece made up, and the door frame made up, and then tackle the subfloor up front where the step-in area is completely toast. That should have the curbside nearly ready to roll. Looks like the roof is decent, besides where the vent leak was. I plan to replace the ceiling/headliner (whatever the correct name for it is) with Kemlite panels...unless we determine we like something else better. Things are moving along pretty decent, considering the amount of free time we have had to work on it.
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Post by shastanamedlucille on Oct 11, 2016 15:13:14 GMT -8
We have identical campers! 1966 Shasta Airflyte! We just bought ours this weekend!
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 12, 2016 12:24:34 GMT -8
These campers are a shortened version of the Super Shastas that have shower and toilet. Take those out and shorten the camper and they are identical the way they are built. So you may wish to follow the 66 Super Shasta projects as well to get an idea of how things are being done.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2016 13:18:16 GMT -8
Very random thought to go along with mobiltec, my 67 has the same tracks in the ceiling corners as yours does. Mobiltec mention this part in one of his videos on the Super. I really like the tracks because you can easily replace the ceiling with anything that is 1/4 inch thick or less. I used white board. Clean look, easy and cheap to do. Even if it gets damaged by water somehow it's an easy replacement due to the track system they did in the later 60s toasters. Could just as well do some choice birch too obviously..
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