66shasta
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Post by 66shasta on Jan 3, 2016 13:28:13 GMT -8
We have a 4 door pickup in the shop currently...gets a 5.9 Cummins swapped in. It has potential. On to the Shasta again. Murphy and I spent an hour or so today with it. Am I going to have 7500 in a trailer worth 2500 when I finish? Entire roof is soaked inside, and all the wood up there is rotten.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 3, 2016 14:33:44 GMT -8
No. You'l have a trailer that is worth $7500...
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66shasta
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Post by 66shasta on Jan 3, 2016 14:52:39 GMT -8
No. You'l have a trailer that is worth $7500... To anyone besides myself, though? I have this fear, that once we use it and like it, my wife will want to upgrade to something with more plumbing. I don't want to lose my behind on this one, if that happens.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 3, 2016 14:53:37 GMT -8
I made exactly $0.78 on my first trailer. At least I didn't lose anything.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 3, 2016 15:31:51 GMT -8
I don't want to brag, but I may make as much as the French Fry boy at MCdonalds on theShasta I'm working on now.
Okay, okay, maybe not that much.
Seriously, you will never make money to compensate for the time. It's more of a hobby. I think your camper in perfect condition, new skin and paint will be worth $7500. Maybe a little more if it is perfect. But not much more. If it was a 56 Shasta in perfect condition it might be worth $12,000-$15,000. Others may disagree.
One member recently tried to sell a flawless 50s restoration on eBay and, as far as I know, could not get his asking price of a little over $20k. And it was truly perfect.
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66shasta
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Post by 66shasta on Jan 3, 2016 15:58:06 GMT -8
I don't expect to make anything, but don't wanna lose my shirt. Just weighing options...may restore, may part out and find something either better or at least more desirable in the end
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 3, 2016 16:06:23 GMT -8
I think you're wise to weigh all your options. The big question...is this the camper you'll want to keep long-term? If yes, it's worth the time.
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Post by danrhodes on Jan 3, 2016 16:54:05 GMT -8
I think you're wise to weigh all your options. The big question...is this the camper you'll want to keep long-term? If yes, it's worth the time. That's my math
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Post by bigbill on Jan 4, 2016 6:48:43 GMT -8
I think you need to set down with your wife and present the entire project to yourselves including dreams and fears then make a decision as to go ahead or bale out now. I have been building, buying, selling campers for the better part of 60 years. I consider it a hobby in other words if I am paying myself any labor I am working for pennies. The satisfaction of having a unit that others envy is worth something, only you and she can decide how much. Sort of like your Scout. Good luck with your decision.
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Post by bigbill on Jan 4, 2016 7:21:59 GMT -8
Another thing to consider is how large of a unit do you wish to tow and maintain. I have discovered that the larger a trailer is and the more "conveniences" it has the more it cost to rebuild. own, and tow. In the fifty + years we have been married we have camped in everything from a tent to an every comfort unit. Our discovery is that a hundred and fifty thousand dollar motor home is really nice but staying in a luxury hotel is cheaper. We have a 1968 Shasta 1500 that we plan to use for camping it is easy to tow and set up don't have a huge amount in it plus we designed the interior to what we wanted for us. When we want something nicer we will stay in a hotel. This is a thing each couple has to decide on their own.
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Post by vikx on Jan 4, 2016 20:43:13 GMT -8
I agree on the roof. The rubber needs to go; stinky and heavy. Guessing the metal is toast, probably has pinholes. Not horrible to replace, just measure very closely. I've done several and have had good luck.
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66shasta
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Post by 66shasta on Jan 7, 2016 20:21:23 GMT -8
It has treelimb holes, not just pinholes. I saw one that was 3" or so, anyhow.
So, I come from 20 years with my family in trucking. We ran and maintained a fleet of 20 truck and 40 or so refrigerated trailers. I believe I can replace the roof with aluminum I can acquire from a trailer dealer, cut to length. It would not have the break on the front and rear edges to allow for the skin to slip into, however. Originality is not paramount in small aspects such as that, but is there a real "requirement" that that part of it be there? Can I seal between the new roof and the skin, and rivet/staple-screw it together at the joint...like the trailers we ran for years? Is there a good reason not to? I hate to spend $1000 on a piece of metal for the roof, and shipping, when I can go 5 minutes from the house and roll out a piece that will work just as well for me for under the cost.
Thank you guys for bearing with me while I weigh all my options.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 7, 2016 20:34:28 GMT -8
It has treelimb holes, not just pinholes. I saw one that was 3" or so, anyhow. So, I come from 20 years with my family in trucking. We ran and maintained a fleet of 20 truck and 40 or so refrigerated trailers. I believe I can replace the roof with aluminum I can acquire from a trailer dealer, cut to length. It would not have the break on the front and rear edges to allow for the skin to slip into, however. Originality is not paramount in small aspects such as that, but is there a real "requirement" that that part of it be there? Can I seal between the new roof and the skin, and rivet/staple-screw it together at the joint...like the trailers we ran for years? Is there a good reason not to? I hate to spend $1000 on a piece of metal for the roof, and shipping, when I can go 5 minutes from the house and roll out a piece that will work just as well for me for under the cost. Thank you guys for bearing with me while I weigh all my options. Other people here have said they were going to do just that but I haven't seen any results yet. I've always used the standard new roofs with either Pittsburg locks or S locks. I prefer the locks myself. The very early 50s trailers had lap joints. Just overlap the metal and use something like Gutter Seal or butyl tape in the lap. I wonder what the thickness of the metal is. Once you get to .040 and thicker it is very hard to fold over the edges.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 7, 2016 20:37:42 GMT -8
Something like this.
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66shasta
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Post by 66shasta on Jan 7, 2016 20:57:17 GMT -8
Other people here have said they were going to do just that but I haven't seen any results yet. I've always used the standard new roofs with either Pittsburg locks or S locks. I prefer the locks myself. The very early 50s trailers had lap joints. Just overlap the metal and use something like Gutter Seal or butyl tape in the lap. I wonder what the thickness of the metal is. Once you get to .040 and thicker it is very hard to fold over the edges. I have a big hammer... ;-) But it is .040" by 103" wide, so I hope I don't need it.
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