Flat-Tire
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Post by Flat-Tire on Mar 29, 2014 15:35:45 GMT -8
I'm looking at new J-rail since the original is beyond repair. I have found a few replacements. I'm worried about bending the new rail in an arch to mirror the sides. I doesn't look like it will go willingly. Am I making too much out of this?  |
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 29, 2014 19:43:33 GMT -8
Neither aluminum trims you pictured are "J" (rain) rails.
The left one is interior counter trim, commonly called nosing and comes in many widths.
The right one is common RV edge trim.
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Flat-Tire
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Post by Flat-Tire on Mar 30, 2014 15:33:22 GMT -8
Can someone please recommend a not-too-large J-rail that can be bent along the wide side without a metal shrinker / expander ?
Thanks
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pirateslife
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Post by pirateslife on Mar 30, 2014 15:41:42 GMT -8
It is a very very soft aluminum that bends very easily. Start the screw about every 4 inches and it will roll in place as you go
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Flat-Tire
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Post by Flat-Tire on Mar 30, 2014 16:21:20 GMT -8
Thanks all. Now, can anyone send me a LINK where I can buy the stuff ?? I can't find it.  |
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 30, 2014 17:55:53 GMT -8
Thanks all. Now, can anyone send me a LINK where I can buy the stuff ?? I can't find it.
You "really want to" find a RV local store that will take the time to special order this product for you.
It comes in 16' lengths, the shipping cost will kill you, and they will destroy it during shipping because it is so soft. Buying it "on line" is not a good option, because they can only ship 96" by UPS, so you will end up with many small pieces and extra joints. You will also be charged for a PVC shipping tube which costs more than the product shipped inside.
RV stores can order it from their normal wholesale suppliers, but normally won't even take the time to look it up, has been my experience, just lazy.
I try to purchase enough "J" rail to do three or four trailers at a time, plus toss in some awning rail to make the order worth their efforts. It also helps to reduce the truck freight damage, when it's all bundled together.
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Post by vikx on Mar 30, 2014 20:44:08 GMT -8
Yup, what John Palmer says...
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Post by bigbill on Mar 31, 2014 14:37:43 GMT -8
John have you ever tried to bend the RV edge trim pictured above? Will it do a roof curve?
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 31, 2014 15:49:21 GMT -8
John have you ever tried to bend the RV edge trim pictured above? Will it do a roof curve? Yes BigBill, I have used the edge trim in the upper right photo on a tear drop, and bent it into a almost 180 degree radius without any problem.
I like to "pre-bend" my trims before they are installed. I like the trim to have a nice even radius bend, which is very hard to do if you use the "screw it down, then bend it a little, method". You can use the edge of the trailer as a curved template before the skin is installed. Yes, it will slightly "spring back", but it still gives you a better radius bend when your done.
Almost all the aluminum trims that I have worked with, are (I think?) 1000 series aluminum which is very soft. The more "detailed" the extrusion, the more it "work hardens" during the extrusion process, and the harder it is to bend without kinks (just my observation). For example, an extruded awning rail is harder to bend, than a simple "J" (rain) rail.
If you run into a trim that will not yield to the direction you want it to bend you can always anneal the metal in just the area that needs the greater bend. The process to anneal aluminum is simple to do. Take an acetylene torch, set it to a carbon rich yellow flame (with black soot) and coat the aluminum extrusion with the soot. Then turn up the oxygen mixture till you get a normal soft blue flame. Work the torch with the hotter blue flame back and forth across the trim until all the soot is burned off, THEN STOP! You do not want the aluminum any hotter because it is very close to the melting point. It will then bend "like hot butter". Make sure you bend it using a template after it is softened.
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Flat-Tire
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Post by Flat-Tire on Mar 31, 2014 16:54:49 GMT -8
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Post by schweetcruisers on Mar 31, 2014 17:29:38 GMT -8
Flat-tire, pretty much any local RV shop with repair facilities can get that for you in 16' lengths and as mentioned above it is very easy to work, it's soft in fact just handling it, can bend it.
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Post by bigbill on Apr 1, 2014 6:20:15 GMT -8
Thanks John I am working on my own trailer and want to cover the corner completely as the siding is good but cut with very little wrap in places, so I am thinking about using that style of corner trim instead of J rail. May or may not turn out well but I am going to give it a shot. I think it will look just fine and maybe better. My local RV supplier will get it brought in with there regular weekly shipment with no shipping charge in 16 ft, lengths at about the same cost as J rail. Plan on wrapping both sides then trim access, should give an excellent seal.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 1, 2014 8:18:43 GMT -8
Sounds like a good plan, BigBill.
One more thing, that I do, (and I think(?), I copied from what Vikx has done).
Before the edge trim is installed I spread a coat of Proflex urethane sealant all along the edge seam about 3/4" wide. I apply from a caulking gun, then spread with an acid brush. If you tape it off with blue low tack masking tape, then spread it out, then let it set for overnight, then pull the tape off, it is self leveling, and you will get a nice smooth edge. It seals really well and gives you a double protection from a possible edge leak. I still use normal RV putty (never buytl) on top of the urethane to seal the edge trim and take up any irregularities in the edge.
The only down side, the urethane takes about a week to cure in warm weather. If you get any "spill overs", do not try to clean them, just let them harden and they will rub right off.
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Post by vikx on Apr 1, 2014 21:13:05 GMT -8
I've used Gutter Seal as above. The Oasis trailers do not overlap at all over the front skin, but are "butted". I fill the gap and all screw holes, then smooth very flat. So far, so good...
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Post by vikx on Apr 1, 2014 21:13:11 GMT -8
I've used Gutter Seal as above. The Oasis trailers do not overlap at all over the front skin, but are "butted". I fill the gap and all screw holes, then smooth very flat. So far, so good...
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