ekimnamniets
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Post by ekimnamniets on Sept 7, 2019 14:34:24 GMT -8
Hey all, I'm getting my ducks in a row to start on my '55 Traveleze. I've looked for a thread on wood type for framing and have found nothing so far. So, what type is best? Thanks in advance.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Sept 7, 2019 15:22:18 GMT -8
I’ve used pine for basic framing. Douglas fir or poplar for the framing around the vent or at the doorway which may need more strength.
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ekimnamniets
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Post by ekimnamniets on Sept 7, 2019 15:59:06 GMT -8
Thanks for the reply nccamper. And, skins on this are all attached with rivet headed hardware (probably aluminum also), was thinking about cutting a groove across the head so I can twist them out with a screwdriver......good thought or bad? I figure they probably not reusable anyway, and that should save damaging the skin. Who is a supplier for that type of hardware? Thanks again.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Sept 7, 2019 19:10:38 GMT -8
I've tried several ways to remove rivets and rusted screws. The best way (not perfect) is what you're suggesting...notch with a roto-zip or Dremel. This is also a must have tool.
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ekimnamniets
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Post by ekimnamniets on Sept 11, 2019 19:02:48 GMT -8
And I thought I owned about every type of pliers on the market. Who stocks these? I assume they are for a particular trade or craft. I had no luck cutting a slot and using a screwdriver. Had to use edge of regular grinding wheel to flatten the crown of the rivets, then a machinists starter (or center) bit to drill away the head. Then used my 6" needle nose Vice Grip, worked pretty well. Still....a p.i.t.a. This was just remove the front Hehr window assembly to install new glass. It was a good primer for all out lifting of the skins.
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Post by vikx on Sept 12, 2019 19:03:53 GMT -8
I bought my pliers off ebay, direct from Japan. They aren't Vampliers but are the same style.
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ekimnamniets
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Post by ekimnamniets on Sept 13, 2019 5:11:05 GMT -8
Thanks! All help is appreciated.
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Sept 15, 2019 7:53:41 GMT -8
I scored some huge crates that some commercial ac units were delivered in. I ripped all the pine1x4s in half. All framing was free.😜
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ekimnamniets
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Post by ekimnamniets on Sept 15, 2019 10:16:48 GMT -8
Thanks aslmx, I have a neighbor that's does commerical h.v.a.c. Think I'll put a bug in his ear!
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Sept 16, 2019 17:20:55 GMT -8
Thanks aslmx, I have a neighbor that's does commerical h.v.a.c. Think I'll put a bug in his ear! it saved me a ton of money. I think 1x4s at Lowe’s are around $8. If he is a commercial hvac guy then he can hook you up with butyl tape also. They use it in between the duct joints. I got all my tape for 10 sausage and biscuits.
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ekimnamniets
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Post by ekimnamniets on Sept 24, 2019 12:51:09 GMT -8
nccamper...I received my "Vampliers a couple of days ago, got to try them out today. Really great tip! They work excellent. Only spot that give me a lot of trouble that I can see will be the short caps that create the ends of the horizontal splice extrusions that the factory uses on joints. I'm still thinking I better hold off any major tear apart until spring. Unless I can create enough room in my shop to pull it inside. Thanks again!
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stevefd
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Post by stevefd on Oct 2, 2019 5:27:46 GMT -8
I'm gonna use poplar. My non vintage Jayco has pine framing and I'm getting a lot of staples backing out on the paneling. I believe its because the pine is a softer wood and as the wood continues to get dryer the holes the staples made are getting bigger causing the staple pops when we go down the road. Poplar is considered a hardwood with tighter cellular structure. My theory is that it will be stronger and hold fasteners better. I believe most everybody uses pine though.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Oct 2, 2019 6:54:15 GMT -8
I've used poplar with very good results.
I think any step up to a harder wood is a plus.
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WhitneyK
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Post by WhitneyK on Oct 3, 2019 5:20:38 GMT -8
I'm gonna use poplar. My non vintage Jayco has pine framing and I'm getting a lot of staples backing out on the paneling. I believe its because the pine is a softer wood and as the wood continues to get dryer the holes the staples made are getting bigger causing the staple pops when we go down the road. Poplar is considered a hardwood with tighter cellular structure. My theory is that it will be stronger and hold fasteners better. I believe most everybody uses pine though. Using Poplar on mine as well. It can be purchased locally (Southern IN) from our local folks and you don't have to pay the over inflated prices that the big box stores want for it. Actually, when comparing prices between local sourced #1 Poplar and #2 knotty Pine from HD, the Poplar was only $.05-.10 a board foot more. My local supplier has most native hardwoods available (poplar, white oak, red oak, cherry, ash, hickory, etc) Makes it nice. It is all planed and kiln dried. Was even considering using the ash or hickory for the roof spars just for the extra strength.
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ekimnamniets
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Post by ekimnamniets on Oct 3, 2019 7:05:30 GMT -8
While this can of worms is open......joints are typically nailed, or stapled, or screwed? Should joints be glued also? And one last thought, has anyone used biscuit joining? Seems that any holes put in thin material is potentially making it much weaker. This is all from a time verses result standpoint, I don't mind spending a few extra bucks to get a good result. That said, I'll be checking into poplar wood for framing. Glue type that people have had good luck with would be nice to know also. Thanks everybody.
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