mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Jun 6, 2018 17:04:32 GMT -8
I just ran all new 110, I am wondering why everyone on here gets a new breaker box? Is there something wrong with using the old box and up grading to 30V. With the Compact we kept the same box and added another breaker and I was planning on doing the same for the Airflyte. I just wanted to make sure there's nothing wrong with keeping the old box? I just never see anyone on here do it. This is what my box looks like before IMG-3978 by Mel L, on Flickr
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Jun 6, 2018 18:37:56 GMT -8
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Post by vikx on Jun 6, 2018 19:36:19 GMT -8
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Jun 7, 2018 2:32:43 GMT -8
vikx That was the first thing my husband said that it's not wired correctly. If I can make this box work, I would prefer to keep it. I would just need to add the other breaker and a ground bar right?
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 7, 2018 5:02:00 GMT -8
mel if it were me I'd replace the box and populate it with new breakers. But to address your question about the existing box you first need to figure out if the box has continuity with the buss bar that currently has the grounds connected. If it does, then the grounds can remain connected to it, and you'll need to install an isolated (has an insulating layer to keep it from touching your breaker box) buss bar for the neutral wires. If the existing buss bar does NOT have continuity with the box, then I'd install a buss bar that DOES contact the box, move the grounds to the new buss bar, and connect the neutral wires to the existing isolated buss bar. Edit: you'll also need a jumper wire to connect those two main lugs together. As it stands, only 1 breaker would be energized if you hooked it up without the jumper. I'd still replace the old breaker(s) with new ones if you can find them. Breakers can wear out, and they can be affected by exposure to the elements. If it wasn't wired correctly to begin with, you have no idea what kind of torture those breakers might have been subjected to. So in the end installing a SquareD box with widely available breakers might not be much more expensive than just buying new breakers for the existing box.
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Jun 7, 2018 6:21:47 GMT -8
Thanks charliemyers, I just talked to my step dad and he pretty much said all the same things as you. I just prefer to reuse things instead of heaving them off into a landfill. But I want my trailer to be safe and done correctly at the same time.
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Jun 7, 2018 16:38:17 GMT -8
If you notice the pic, the neutral bus was isolated but it has a green screw right in the middle that bonds it to the actual housing which is correct if you consider it the first means of disconnect. The only problem would be that if your source of power is coming from a ground fault then you would have 2 different neutral bond sources which would cause nuisance trips. I would say if you know your power source is bonded correctly then I would not bond the neutrals and grounds at the camper.
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Post by vikx on Jun 7, 2018 20:30:12 GMT -8
Mel, the box can be used but I'm not sure you can find the correct breakers. You will definitely need a ground bar. I "think" the neutral bar is isolated from the box. (where the grounds are now) If that is the case, use it as intended and add the ground bar. Trailers ALWAYS should have isolated ground and neutrals.
Honestly, I would replace the original box. The one I showed you could handle 4 circuits with tandem/twin breakers and already has both bars.
And lastly, a jumper is necessary in both boxes.
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Jun 8, 2018 3:39:48 GMT -8
Thanks guys, I will be making a decision in a few days. It will probably come down to if I can find breakers and the cost of them if I do.
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