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Post by bigbill on Jan 27, 2018 13:15:39 GMT -8
Also remember the hitch moves so make sure the lines aren't rubbing on anything. The top cover used to come down over the front so the master cyl most likely is the wrong one. Many back then used the Ford fruit jar type cyl (round lid like a fruit jar). Think Falcon or early Mustang, before dual master cyl were used early 60s.
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Post by vikx on Jan 27, 2018 22:09:28 GMT -8
These posts were moved to a new thread. Please try to keep to the subject of the original thread rather than continue on a different subject. Thanks.
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paxtonshasta
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Post by paxtonshasta on Jan 28, 2018 8:18:07 GMT -8
I have a 2012 HOnda Ridgeline. Towing capacity is 5,000 lbs. Techology in it is from 2006. So, it's got old tech in it. It pulls a 17.5' 2200 lbs. trailer and gets typically about 14 mpg towing at 55 mph. If it's really flat, I can get to 16 mpg. Not great, not awful either. The newer larger trucks I THINK, get better gas mileage when towing than that, have more horsepower and torque. But A new full size truck can cost $$$. Depends on your budget. Check out the Honda Pilot forums. I was researching Pilots when I was looking for a new TV. I got the pick up because the wheel base was longer and the first gen Ridge was more just designed for towing, than the Pilot. But, people do tow with those. Rod Thanks for the info. i am considering a Honda Ridgeline as well. The other 2 i've looked at are the F-150 eco boost, or the Dodge ram with the V6 and 8speed AT, but both are still $$$$$ used. And being that the sole purpose of this vehicle is to pull the camper I don't want to spend $$$$$ on a TV that isn't really driven much. |
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 30, 2018 16:26:26 GMT -8
Hi Paxton,
Not sure if your looking at the newest Ridgelines or used and how far back. The first gen finished production in early 2015. My mechanic loves them. The newer ones came in in 2017. It's a different vehicle all together than before. Maddan can give you any thoughts on his experience with his 2nd Gen Ridge. Maybe send him a PM. The trunk in these trucks is worth gold. It's one of my favorite items with this truck.
Cheers,
Rod
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paxtonshasta
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Post by paxtonshasta on May 7, 2018 4:39:05 GMT -8
Update on the tow vehicle:
We ended getting a 2006 Jeep Commander 4wd with the 4.7 V8. (Still not the best mpg)
But it’s gotta get us, my camper, and all our crap moved out to California in a couple months.
Hope this works out great.
Does anyone know where to get the bracket that mounts on the rear bumper to hold the spare tire???
I always just thru it in the back of the truck, but I don’t want to put it in the back of the Jeep now.
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kudzu
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Post by kudzu on May 7, 2018 5:17:35 GMT -8
I had a little incident that has convinced me of the need for brakes on anything more than a small lightweight utility trailer. Full size truck, a big trailer loaded with basically a whole woodworking shop full of tools headed back home. You knew it was there and could feel it pushing me around a little. Driving through a small town in Mississippi doing maybe 25-30 mph. Light turns yellow and the driver in front of me makes a panic stop instead of going through.
Wife and I both knew we were going to ram that car, with that load there was no way could we stop. But to my surprise because of the trailer brakes we just stopped, very quickly and with no skidding, no panic, no big deal. It was as if we didn't even have that load behind us. We just looked at each other in total disbelief. I was probably right on his/her bumper but I did stop. Without the trailer brakes I would rammed right into them. I had always liked trailer brakes but after that I am TOTALLY sold on the need for all trailers to have them. People so do stupid things and you never know when they are going to do it.
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paxtonshasta
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Post by paxtonshasta on May 7, 2018 5:25:02 GMT -8
I had a little incident that has convinced me of the need for brakes on anything more than a small lightweight utility trailer. Full size truck, a big trailer loaded with basically a whole woodworking shop full of tools headed back home. You knew it was there and could feel it pushing me around a little. Driving through a small town in Mississippi doing maybe 25-30 mph. Light turns yellow and the driver in front of me makes a panic stop instead of going through. Wife and I both knew we were going to ram that car, with that load there was no way could we stop. But to my surprise because of the trailer brakes we just stopped, very quickly and with no skidding, no panic, no big deal. It was as if we didn't even have that load behind us. We just looked at each other in total disbelief. I was probably right on his/her bumper but I did stop. Without the trailer brakes I would rammed right into them. I had always liked trailer brakes but after that I am TOTALLY sold on the need for all trailers to have them. People so stupid things and you never know when they are going to do it. Great advice. I will be working on the brakes before we go anywhere and I have the funds to get any needed parts and the brake controller. |
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on May 7, 2018 6:27:57 GMT -8
I'm always a proponent for trailer brakes regardless of the size of the tow vehicle for the simple reason of having something to stop your trailer if it becomes disconnected from your vehicle. With a battery and a disconnect switch, your trailer will apply the brakes and come to a stop in such a situation, and something that I just recently realized is that your tow vehicle does NOT need to be wired with a brake controller to take advantage of that (please correct me if I'm wrong about that). I mean after all, when it's disconnected, it doesn't even have a tow vehicle, much less a brake controller.
My current tow vehicle is a Silverado 3500HD, and my Shasta Compacts do or will have brakes (one currently has brakes, one doesn't) before they're towed off my property.
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Post by vikx on May 7, 2018 21:52:11 GMT -8
Charlie, be VERY careful adding brakes to a Shasta compact!
My 57 1500 had brakes (an option?) and the wheel would NOT COME OFF the trailer... Sundance (1st 1500) did not have brakes. Tires were 205s and fit fine. Poor Butch Cassidy (twin) had weird low profile tires on the original rims. Plus brakes. The brakes caused us so much angst getting the wheel off the trailer even with the tire flat. We raised the trailer, jacked the axle down, fiddled and twiddled. We finally loosened the axle to get the wheel to clear the hub.
Butch was less than 8" off the ground. Way too low to tow safely.
I installed the axle below the spring and it has given us a lot more clearance to work with. I'm going to try the low profiles to see if they will work. Because the trailer is now 'higher' they might provide just the right height.
Newer Shastas may not have the above issues, but it's something to consider.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on May 8, 2018 4:17:32 GMT -8
I installed the axle below the spring and it has given us a lot more clearance to work with. I did the same thing with our '61 Compact that has brakes. The tires still rub a little, but they can be removed without having to deflate them. I haven't done any work with the leaf springs yet either, so when that happens maybe I'll get a little more clearance. |
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Post by vikx on May 8, 2018 10:16:53 GMT -8
The tires rub? As in on the wheel tub or? If they do, it could cause trouble on the road. I know the Loliners have blowouts from tires rubbing on the front spring bracket. I've cut several down to get less than an inch of clearance.
As much as I could tell, rebuilding the springs didn't change much as far as the clearance. I'm not completely done with the axle, it appears to be tipped (not sitting straight up and down) after tightening the U bolts. My axle guru says it will adjust itself?? Does anyone know the torque required on the U bolts?
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on May 8, 2018 10:31:10 GMT -8
The tires rub? As in on the wheel tub or? They rub as in when trying to remove the wheel from the axle. You'd mentioned about having problems removing the tires from the trailer. Prior to moving the axle below the springs, I had to deflate the tire prior to removing it from the axle, and it was still a struggle. After moving the axle below the springs, the fully inflated tire rubs a little when removing it, but it's a tremendous improvement over the original configuration. I've seen where some people have replaced their worn out springs or had them re-arched to help with this sort of problem as well. I haven't done that yet, but if I do I'm hoping that it will improve the situation even more. When mounted on the axle, there's plenty of room in the fender well. |
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kudzu
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Post by kudzu on May 8, 2018 12:57:26 GMT -8
Torque Ratings
1/2 inch Bolts: 45 ft/lbs - 70 ft/lbs
9/16 inch Bolts: 65 ft/lbs - 95 ft/lbs
5/8 inch Bolts: 100 ft/lbs - 120 ft/lbs
Clean bolts with anti seize compound. That is important! I have a set on my Suburban that an air wrench will not removed. Seized tight and I am going to have to cut the u bolts off and replace them.
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Post by vikx on May 8, 2018 18:26:48 GMT -8
Thanks Kudzu. I think they're 1/2 inch but will look to be sure. I didn't even think about anti seize; will loosen and goo them a bit.
Thanks for the clarification, Charlie. I'm very curious how things will go with Butch when the tires go back on. I'd like to go bigger in the end, but buy brand new tires if/when they are sold rather than now.
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paxtonshasta
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Post by paxtonshasta on Nov 30, 2019 21:07:24 GMT -8
Hi Guys. Sorry for the overdue update!
I was able to get my brake controller installed in the Jeep Commander with no problem. The issue I ran into is I decided to replace the hubs since they really are not too expensive. But after all the pain to get it installed, (getting a tire off a 62 airflyte is no easy task. )) I found the original drum didn’t fit on the new hub. There was a groove it needed to fit in and it was just a liiiiiiiiiittle off. So on the old hub went back on. They do work but even with the controller set to max, it really doesn’t apply much force, but enough to help with braking. I tried to use the adjuster tool, but to no avail. And with our move just a days away it had to stay that way. So it’s on the list to work on in the future.
The Jeep works ok as tow vehicle. But I am going to sell it and get something else. When I tow, I get like 8 mpg. And just driving around 10 mpg. And now that I pay Cali gas prices, it’s getting expensive. 😫
Thinking a new 2nd gen Ridgeline. Or possibly a 3rd gen Dodgers Ram ecodiesel.
I reeeeeeealy want the Ridgeline but I have a little concern with the 5000 lb tow rating. But I might be over thinking it...
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