Towing and Trailer Brakes

vehicles same year same model can have different tow ratings. Check with your dealer for info on the one you have or wish to purchase. they will need the vin/serial number to look it up. I think a 5000 lb tow load would be the very minimum I would consider and more is better. I prefer a tow rating at least twice the total weight of the fully loaded trailer. Remember many vehicles include the weight of passengers and cargo in the vehicle into their total towing weight. So a 500 pound mother in law and two Bull Mastiffs going along can make a huge difference, not to mention ten kids.

Hi Paxtonshasta. Can you post a photo of that Airflyte? We are all interested to see what you have, and I'm particularly intrigued by your "restomod" comment. I'm planning something like this for my trailer and would like to see what you've done.

Regarding the tow vehicle, a friend of mine has a 2017 Pilot and pulls a large Ranger boat that is pushing 3000 pounds. He has the 3.5L V-6 with all wheel drive. This has 5000 pounds towing capacity versus the 3500 pound 2 wheel drive. You might be able to get by with the 2 wheel drive, but I believe it's only a couple grand to upgrade to AWD. So in my opinion, go with the AWD.

The buddy of mine pulls his large boat like it's not even there. Works a lot better than my heavier Silverado and I have to put mine in 4 wheel drive when on boat ramps.

The weight of your trailer fully loaded (wet) should be somewhat less than 3000 pounds I believe. Someone else on this forum might give you a better estimate.

Regarding trailer brakes. My opinion is that they are not needed with a new tow vehicle these days. The larger disc brakes, ABS, traction control, etc. is light years ahead of the older cars that pulled these trailers in yesteryear.

I'm not sure what bigbill was referring to with "controller" for your vehicle? Maybe he can clarify? I believe the trailer would have a tongue actuated hydraulic brake system, but I might be wrong. Do you know for sure what you have?

Hi,

I have a 2012 HOnda Ridgeline.  Towing capacity is 5,000 lbs.  Techology in it is from 2006.  So, it's got old tech in it.  It pulls a 17.5' 2200 lbs. trailer and gets typically about 14 mpg towing at 55 mph.  If it's really flat, I can get to 16 mpg.  Not great, not awful either.  The newer larger trucks I THINK, get better gas mileage when towing than that, have more horsepower and torque.  But A new full size truck can cost $$$.  Depends on your budget. 

Check out the Honda Pilot forums.  I was researching Pilots when I was looking for a new TV.  I got the pick up because the wheel base was longer and the first gen Ridge was more just designed for towing, than the Pilot.  But, people do tow with those.

Rod

bw All of the shastas I have been associated with had electric brakes which needs a controller on tow vehicle to work. As for brakes if you are in a state that requires brakes and don't have them you could be found liable even if the accident wasn't your fault.

Speaking of modern technology many law enforcement agencies now have special accident investigation teams that are trained to inspect everything on all vehicles involved. I'm not saying you have to buy a given type of vehicle, but I am saying make certain what you are buying will safely do the job you desire. Some people have no fear of a trailer jerking their vehicle around, some are terrified of it.

I probably have more experience towing all types of trailers than most people, everything from small cement mixers to gasoline tankers, pop-ups to lowboys hauling heavy equipment. My knowledge of law enforcement came from a little school called Ohio State.

The main thing is make sure if you spend the dollars that any new vehicle cost today make sure that you and your family will be happy with it. The wrong choice can be very expensive or might cause the family to decide to never go away with a trailer again. The third possibility is all or part of the family never lives to talk about.

My advice is read everything you can make a decision and be prepared to live with it.
HAVE FUN AND HAPPY CAMPING

Tongue actuated hydraulic brake controllers are called "Surge Brakes". They worked well in the day but can be a pain to back up, as the brakes are ON when backing.

Surge brakes are VERY difficult to repair and sometimes parts are unavailable. I've done two and neither was fun. Finding a new master cylinder is usually the key. There is a small brass swivel fitting on the master, be SURE you don't ruin it! They are not made any more. The swivel allows the hydraulic line to fit closer to the master cyl. body so that the cover will fit.

A "controller" is simply an electronic device to adjust or activate electric trailer brakes. Tekonsha is one brand. Most of our trailers have electric brakes if they have them at all.

bw I have owned many trailers with surge brakes, but never on a camper. I build my car trailers with surge brakes and the backing up on uneven surfaces can be a pain so I always drilled a hole in the coupler to insert a lock out pin but you have to remember to remove pin before you take off. The down fall of surge brakes is in the mountains on a long down grade the wait of the trailer keeps the brakes engaged heat builds up and brake fad occurres when you need them the most. When you compare boat and open car trailers to a camper they are two different animals because of wind resistance and balance/center of gravity. I have seen many more accidents involving campers than boats. As I mentioned I built a lot of car trailers with surge brakes for the reason that car nuts tend to loan their trailer to a friend and he doesn't have a controller so no brakes if trailer has electric brakes. Both systems have advantages and disadvantages depending on what type of trailer they are being used on. If you are traveling in different states there are books that have trailer requirements for each state. If you get involved in an accident you better be in compliance with the laws of that state. I always check if I am going to be pulling through a state I'm not familiar with. The brake weights, maximum towing speed, and anything else that might be different. I also check CCW laws before traveling. In the last 3/4 of a century this practice has helped me avoid any disruptions to my travels. I have been all over the United states and Canada and wouldn't trade my memories for anything. when we go on vacation now we like to avoid the interstates and travel the old two lanes to see the country and meet the people, it tickles me when someone says they don't like to travel by car because interstates are boring. They don't know what they are missing by not using the state highways through the towns and villages of our great country.

that appears to be an old Atwood surge unit. most of then used ford master cyls. If you need a new one make certain the bore is the same size for it to work as designed. If that unit is working properly you shouldn't be able to back it up over any type of resistance even soft dirt. when I was installing them back in the day I drilled a hole so that I could insert a pin when in the unlocked position allowing me to back up without activating the brakes. Usually a piece of 1/4" drill rod.