|
Post by Teachndad on Jan 3, 2018 15:59:42 GMT -8
Hi Friends, After a rather long pause in my 57 Westerner’s restoration, I was able to start again today. I was working on assembling the floor. When you last heard from me on this matter I had dry fit the pieces. When clamped at the time, I couldn’t get the floor level. I NOW remember. Some of you may remember that my frame was suffering from frame sag. The tongue had lifted up and the C- channel at the base of the tongue bowed out. I had the frame repaired with new longer outriggers and the welder remedied most of the uplift. Afterwards, it was pretty hard to see. So, what does this translate to? In the front over the center floor joist is a dip. It’s about 3/32”. I can squeeze a fender washer in the gap if I place a 4 foot long level over the floor at that point. Then, by the time you get to the back of the frame just behind the wheels, it’s almost the opposite. The level stretched across the center floor joist rocks a wee bit. BTW, I worked meticulously(as best I could) to level out the frame before I even started. Note, the original floor joists were 2 7/8” tall. The C- channel measures 3”. If my outer floor joists are at 3”, then the gap is higher in the middle over the center floor joist. If I use 2 7/8”, it works to my favor and lowers the gap in the center a smidge. I know this because I have wood that are both heights. So, what do I do? I could shave the center floor joist in the back with a belt sander and even that out, (maybe?). But, the front is the real problem. Do I just go with it as is? Once the carriage bolts and screws are placed into the center floor joist to attach the plywood floor, the plywood floor fits snug to the joist or to the top of the C- Channel. Since the floor is doing this “wavy” thing, will I have trouble squaring up the cabinetry on the floor? Will the gimp hide the gaps? Is this issue even worth worrying about? Thanks, Rod
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Jan 4, 2018 7:46:05 GMT -8
Hi Friends, I am starting to figure this out a little more. When I had the tongue lift reduced, The front outrigger was replaced but sat lower than the others. In order to level it out. I gave it my best measurement and had some "pads" welded on to the ends. That lifted the side floor joists up higher making them more level with the C- Channel of the frame. Here is an image of one of them. and the other side Here is an image showing both sides. If you look at both sides of the floor in front you see the pads below. I think part of the issue in my first post is that the pads are too thick. That might explain why at the rear, the level rocked side to side. I will measure again and look at it today to see if I can take a grinder to the top of the pads to reduce the thickness. Either that, or shave the wood. None of these I favor. Too much chance of grinding away too much or making it not level. Looking for thin shimming material for the center floor joist. It's been frustrating... Rod
|
|
kirkadie
1K Member
Posts: 1,156
Likes: 556
'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
Currently Offline
|
Post by kirkadie on Jan 4, 2018 10:18:42 GMT -8
I would like to remark about the floor problem, but all I can see in your picture is glorious sunshine, plants with leaves and color, and no blowing snow. Sorry.
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Jan 4, 2018 17:39:32 GMT -8
Hey Kirk,
Yep lots a sunshine. The clouds had parted earlier today and the sun beat down on my neck so much I had to go into the shade to get away from the heat. So Cal winter's can be a cool (temperature wise, not hip).
For Kirk and others reading this thread. I did get my floor cut and clamped. I came to the realization that yes, my floor will have an 1/8" dip in the center. Not the end of the world, I guess. The cabinets sit mostly over the c channel and the side floor joists. That area appears to be level enough. So, that area near the wall will be pretty close to square. Vix has said we aren't building a space shuttle. It's a 60 year old trailer with a frame that had a So Cal face lift.
Time to move on to supporting the seams and screwing and bolting this floor down.
Cheers,
Rod
|
|
nccamper
Administrator
Posts: 7,744
Likes: 2,871
1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by nccamper on Jan 4, 2018 19:38:28 GMT -8
I agree with the post above, it will never be perfectly square and level. I've done several campers and not one was perfect from the factory. Improvising is the name of the game.
I'd be thrilled with a floor that was only 1/8" off.
The weight of the cabinets will have an effect, too.
|
|
roadtripper
Active Member
Posts: 311
Likes: 116
Currently Offline
|
Post by roadtripper on Jan 4, 2018 20:24:41 GMT -8
Some months ago I was talking on the phone with Steve of HV about metal for my roof. In the course of that conversation he said there has probably never been one square trailer on the road ever. If you are working as hard at it as it looks it should come out great. You have a nice clean foundation to work from there looks to me.
|
|
ruderunner
Active Member
Posts: 472
Likes: 97
Currently Offline
|
Post by ruderunner on Jan 6, 2018 4:44:11 GMT -8
Try checking things in your house.
Note also that most good levels are not straight, they're made with a very slight curve so the ends contact before the middle. Run a string across the edge to check. Some are concave on one side and convex on the other, some concave on both sides. Mark which is which.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,822
Likes: 3,749
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Jan 15, 2018 18:03:49 GMT -8
After thinking about it for a few nights and remembering what we talked about. I say go ahead and try to straighten the frame. You may wan to go ahead and use a professional frame welder??? I don't know. I built the 59 on a wobbledd out frame and it sucked. But I got it done. Do you can do that too. If you want to know what I dealt with email me. I have photos....
|
|