$$$$$$ All I really care about is which is cheaper? Pink stuff or rigid, including wraps as needed? I am into thi$ enough that I think I'd u$e crinkled new$paper, ha ha. $$$$$
I think the rigid board is around $15 a sheet at Lowe’s. I was lucky enough to get mine free off a job I did. I’m not sure how much the pink stuff is. If you were close to me , I have 6 sheets of the rigid that you can have.
I had a thought (didn't say it was a good one). If ya'll have trouble finding 3/4", could you use 1/2" foam AND top it off with the pink fiberglass to give it the "Mobiltec" puff factor? (best of both worlds?)
Last Edit: Apr 24, 2019 18:17:25 GMT -8 by WhitneyK
We never really grow up, we only learn how to act in public. '12 Weakender TD (homebilt)(43 States & around 40k miles) '67 Shasta Compact '67 Bee Line Wasp
Post by stillgotomx on Apr 24, 2019 19:27:33 GMT -8
I did get some 1" rigid foam today at Lowe's for $11 a sheet, not too bad. It is for the ceiling. Will have to use something thinner, I guess 3/4, for the 1x4 framing, and that stuff seems so thin it hardly seems worth putting in there. Duly noted about the vapor barrier -- thanks.
".....give a lazy man a hard job, and he'll find an easy way to do it."
Insulation thicker than the walls doesn't work very well. You'd be surprised how "tough" (non mashable) foam is. I've had bulge problems trying it. Even fiberglass should have the air factor and not be collapsed tightly. It loses R value when it is.
If you are having trouble finding 3/4 foam, you should be able to order it from a box store. 1" may work in the ceiling cavity IF the rafters are thicker than the walls. Otherwise, fiberglass or Reflectix work well, especially on the curves.
I was watching one of Mobiltec's class most recently on the topic of insulation. So, one of the points that Larry brought up was something he called a heat memory that occurs when the trailer is insulated with styrofoam insulation. For the sake of a(controversial?)discussion, he felt that styrofoam insulation insulates well in the morning before it gets hot, but then it heats up as the day goes on with more sun exposure. The result is that the a trailer with styrofoam insulation will hold the heat longer into the evening because it's now heated up and then holds the heat like a heat memory thereby keeping the trailer hotter longer than using fiberglass insulation. Comments?
NCcamper mentioned the breathability of Tyvek vapor barrier in an earlier post in this thread. Quote is below.
Oct 22, 2017 5:40:26 GMT -7 nccamper said: "I like the pink insulation with Tyvek wrap so it can breath. But the truth is, if the camper is stored uncovered and the putty fails there will be water damage."
Are all vapor barriers breathable?
Last Edit: Aug 3, 2020 12:35:57 GMT -8 by Teachndad
"I get that queasy how in the hell will this thing ever go back together feeling.” - PT
I used the rigid shown in the picture. Where it was needed I used construction adhesive to hold it in place. As the first picture indicates, I cut some small blocks and screwed them to the cross members to hold it in place where necessary. That worked great. I can't take credit for this idea as it came from someone on this forum. Where I needed to bend it around a radius, I simply scribed it with a knife and then clamped it in place. Once the construction adhesive dried, it never moved. As with Vikx, I cut it to fit tight and none of the side panels required an adhesive.