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Post by vikx on Jul 1, 2014 22:14:21 GMT -8
Wiring before insulation.
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hilcandoit
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1965 Arrow Little Chief
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Post by hilcandoit on Oct 20, 2017 12:15:43 GMT -8
If the original fiberglass is bad, I use Reflectix bubble wrap in the ceiling and rigid foam in the walls. 3/4 can be hard to find in my neck of the woods, but heard that Home Depot will order it... Vikx, when you talk about using Reflectix in the ceiling, do you mean the top panel of the wrap only? Just wanting clarification since (as Larry points out in a couple of his videos) the entire wrap is technically the "ceiling." Could, or should, Reflectix be used for the entire wrap? If it matters, I'm rehabbing one of the itty-bittiest canned hams in existence—an Arrow Little Chief. I'm doing a piecemeal restoration, replacing the wrap panels and their framing one at a time. Build blog is not published yet but will be soon. Thanks.
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Post by vikx on Oct 20, 2017 20:41:50 GMT -8
Not sure what you mean by the "entire wrap"? Do you mean the top layer of insulation?
I use Reflectix in the ceiling cavities, stapled in place. If the original insulation can be used, I blanket that over the top. A layer of plastic over that (just under the metal) helps with condensation.
Note that Reflextix is a bit thick to use on top of the ceiling framing.
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hilcandoit
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Post by hilcandoit on Oct 21, 2017 8:36:29 GMT -8
Thank you, Vikx. "Entire wrap" meaning the front (tongue end), back, and top planes of the box—all the planes that are NOT the curb side and street side walls.
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Post by vikx on Oct 21, 2017 22:05:44 GMT -8
OK, thanks.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Oct 22, 2017 4:40:26 GMT -8
I like the pink insulation with Tyvek wrap so it can breath. But the truth is, if the camper is stored uncovered and the putty fails there will be water damage.
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kif
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Post by kif on Aug 16, 2018 7:38:45 GMT -8
Follow-up question on this thread or generally. I was going to use rigid, but the R6/inch seems pretty low (especially as I had grabbed the 1/2 inch which is actually R2. Does anyone know what the traditional insulation wasm, and if I'm nuts to use just the R-Tech 1/2 inch. I liked the way it cuts and fits and so it was a clean way to go (didn't see the 3/4 option at my home depot). But also I want as much thermal protection as possible (it's hot in the day and cold at night here in Marin County).
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dragonwagons
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Post by dragonwagons on Aug 16, 2018 12:32:03 GMT -8
I used both reflectixs and 1/2 inch ridgid. The 1/8 inch wood panel then reflectix the wiring then the 1/2 inch ridged foam board then the Aluminum siding.
I also ran the reflectix under the bracing boards (3/4 inch) where I could, just like the original yellow fiberglass was on my Shasta.
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bolesman
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Post by bolesman on Mar 13, 2019 18:30:50 GMT -8
Like a lot of others out there I'm confused about insulating my Aluminum skinned vintage trailer. After gutting this 1959 Boles Aero and ridding it of the rotten paneling and floor, I'm ready to start insulating the walls and ceiling and don't want to do it wrong. I've read a ton of articles and visited numerous sites with advice all over the place as how to do it. A lot of you have the skin off, something I have no intention of doing so the order of what goes where first, (vapor barrier, insulation, reflectix, plastic wrap, paneling, etc is confusing to me as I'm working on the inside not out. I like the idea of using the reflectix along with the solid foam panels but want to know which layer goes in first against the alum skin. Any help? Thanks!
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Post by vikx on Mar 13, 2019 19:42:21 GMT -8
Welcome Bolesman,
Older Boles were riveted trailers and repaired from the inside out. Not sure if yours is riveted or not. If stick and tin, they are repaired from the outside in. There is no way to get to the sills and skirt boards without at least lifting the skins.
Please start a thread on your Boles in the "Talk about your Trailer" section and post some photos so we can help. I have a friend doing a 55 Boles now and they are about to insulation.
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bolesman
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Post by bolesman on Mar 14, 2019 8:54:33 GMT -8
My Boles has aluminum framing, no wood except for the floor and the paneling. I have sealed up the outside but am ready to put walls back together and that is where I am unsure. My plan is to put a layer of plastic sheeting (heavy weight) against the aluminum skin from the inside and then lay rigid foam panels in between the aluminum ribs on top of that plastic. Filling the voids with spray foam and taping any seams to keep moisture from coming getting in from the inside of the trailer. I may try to put some reflectix on top of the foam and then cover that with another layer of plastic film to totally encapsulate the insulation before putting my wood paneling on. If I am wrong, or someone has a better idea of how this should be done, please feel free to let me know.
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Post by vikx on Mar 14, 2019 20:40:47 GMT -8
Is your trailer riveted?
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n2hcky
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Post by n2hcky on Mar 15, 2019 6:47:00 GMT -8
I have used this in a couple of campers as an alternative to Reflectix. It has a foam core instead of double air bubbles. Of course the true secret to getting anywhere near the efficiency they claim, is to have an air gap....but that is not always possible on campers. They have with reflective on both sides or just on one. Probably doesn't matter on a camper. 400SF White/Foil400SF Foil/Foil
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bolesman
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Post by bolesman on Mar 15, 2019 9:14:27 GMT -8
Yes, mine is riveted...millions of them.
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idaho211
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Post by idaho211 on Mar 17, 2019 7:52:08 GMT -8
My 66 Kenskill had the foil backed insulation, then wiring then aluminim skin. I like the set up if I need to do something to the wiring it is easier to access. Just an idea.
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