If the original fiberglass is bad, I use Reflectix bubble wrap in the ceiling and rigid foam in the walls. 3/4 can be hard to find in my neck of the woods, but heard that Home Depot will order it...
Vikx, when you talk about using Reflectix in the ceiling, do you mean the top panel of the wrap only? Just wanting clarification since (as Larry points out in a couple of his videos) the entire wrap is technically the "ceiling." Could, or should, Reflectix be used for the entire wrap?
If it matters, I'm rehabbing one of the itty-bittiest canned hams in existence—an Arrow Little Chief. I'm doing a piecemeal restoration, replacing the wrap panels and their framing one at a time. Build blog is not published yet but will be soon. Thanks.
Not sure what you mean by the "entire wrap"? Do you mean the top layer of insulation?
I use Reflectix in the ceiling cavities, stapled in place. If the original insulation can be used, I blanket that over the top. A layer of plastic over that (just under the metal) helps with condensation.
Note that Reflextix is a bit thick to use on top of the ceiling framing.
Follow-up question on this thread or generally. I was going to use rigid, but the R6/inch seems pretty low (especially as I had grabbed the 1/2 inch which is actually R2. Does anyone know what the traditional insulation wasm, and if I'm nuts to use just the R-Tech 1/2 inch. I liked the way it cuts and fits and so it was a clean way to go (didn't see the 3/4 option at my home depot). But also I want as much thermal protection as possible (it's hot in the day and cold at night here in Marin County).
Like a lot of others out there I'm confused about insulating my Aluminum skinned vintage trailer. After gutting this 1959 Boles Aero and ridding it of the rotten paneling and floor, I'm ready to start insulating the walls and ceiling and don't want to do it wrong. I've read a ton of articles and visited numerous sites with advice all over the place as how to do it. A lot of you have the skin off, something I have no intention of doing so the order of what goes where first, (vapor barrier, insulation, reflectix, plastic wrap, paneling, etc is confusing to me as I'm working on the inside not out. I like the idea of using the reflectix along with the solid foam panels but want to know which layer goes in first against the alum skin. Any help? Thanks!
Older Boles were riveted trailers and repaired from the inside out. Not sure if yours is riveted or not. If stick and tin, they are repaired from the outside in. There is no way to get to the sills and skirt boards without at least lifting the skins.
Please start a thread on your Boles in the "Talk about your Trailer" section and post some photos so we can help. I have a friend doing a 55 Boles now and they are about to insulation.
My Boles has aluminum framing, no wood except for the floor and the paneling. I have sealed up the outside but am ready to put walls back together and that is where I am unsure. My plan is to put a layer of plastic sheeting (heavy weight) against the aluminum skin from the inside and then lay rigid foam panels in between the aluminum ribs on top of that plastic. Filling the voids with spray foam and taping any seams to keep moisture from coming getting in from the inside of the trailer. I may try to put some reflectix on top of the foam and then cover that with another layer of plastic film to totally encapsulate the insulation before putting my wood paneling on. If I am wrong, or someone has a better idea of how this should be done, please feel free to let me know.
I have used this in a couple of campers as an alternative to Reflectix. It has a foam core instead of double air bubbles. Of course the true secret to getting anywhere near the efficiency they claim, is to have an air gap....but that is not always possible on campers.
They have with reflective on both sides or just on one. Probably doesn't matter on a camper.