jukebox
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Post by jukebox on Dec 11, 2017 23:34:36 GMT -8
I am looking at options to upgrade my current stock propane refrigerator in my Shasta Airflyte. I was reading the thread on the 54-55 Shasta build and was interested in that one. There is no mention of the model except that one of the pictures shows its a Dometic. I like the option of using a color match door insert. That thread appears to be locked and not allowing replies.
I think Mobiltec used the same model on one of his builds as well.
Any suggestions on models to use? I am wanting at least a 2 way model.
Thanks.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 13, 2017 9:55:44 GMT -8
Two way is all there is. Many people think that because an RV refrigerator uses 12vdc that it magically becomes a three way. Not the case as far as I know. The 12vdc is only to power the computer that operates the fridge and automatically changes it from propane to 110vac and back. That being said, I used a Dometic RM 2351 in the 59 Airflyte with some modifications to the cabinet that were pretty simple. I raised it up to eye level and created a new base for the fridge. It fit in the cabinet very well. The following videos do not include propane gas installation. I got behind when I had to make a move to Nevada and will finish the series soon but they show the cabinet mods and box install.... Part 1 youtu.be/uP_Ox5d2j_EPart 2 youtu.be/uQ3nCzqK7o4Part 3 coming soon which will show the propane line install.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2017 11:40:01 GMT -8
The 12 V setting should be used when you are traveling only. Thermostat does not work on that setting so be careful of your stuff freezing if you go really long distances .
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 13, 2017 16:54:21 GMT -8
The nice thing about the computerized models is that it automatically re-lights if the flame blows out while you are driving.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2017 17:39:19 GMT -8
The 12 Volt power does a few things...switches the unit from LP to 110V automatically when you plug in to an external power source, It also is used to light and re-light the LP flame per Mobiltec's post above. Lastly, it allows you to actually run the fridge, but creates a huge battery drain and is not suggested for any significant length of time.
I run in LP mode when driving. However, to be safe, you really should shut it off when fueling your tow vehicle at a gas station.
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Post by vikx on Dec 13, 2017 21:40:09 GMT -8
3 way refrigerators are still made today. The 12 volt element keeps the fridge cold while on the road, but as BW says, it is on all the time and can drain your vehicle battery. The 110 works when plugged into shore power and gas for boondocking, both are t'stat controlled.
Fridges with a circuit board require a 12 volt source to allow automatic functions but few have a 12 volt element. Hope this clears up the confusion.
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irmatrailer
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Post by irmatrailer on Jan 29, 2018 6:15:07 GMT -8
Our Airflyte had a hole in the cabinet where the old icebox was when we bought her. I checked into new and used Norcolds and Dometics and decided that the risk/reward of using a used 3 way was too great. Soooo, and I am sure I am going to hear some groans from folks on the forum, I went to EBay and bought a 2.1 Cubic Foot Smad 3 way. They were originally designed for Tractor Trailer usage but I don't think there is much less vibration or movement in the cab than in a vintage camper. Got a great deal on it, paid $353 delivered. As soon as I got it, I plugged the unit in to check it and it worked great. Will be installing it soon and yes, I will take some pictures. I know it is Chinese but so is my Harbor Freight $12 grinder which has been to date, the best cheap tool I have every bought! Keeping my fingers crossed!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2018 12:19:28 GMT -8
I think you made a good choice. I believe the size you bought normally sells for around $500 new. A friend of mine has the SMAD and the controls are at the bottom front of the fridge rather than on the backside. Makes it more convenient than a Dometic of a similar size.
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irmatrailer
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Post by irmatrailer on Jan 29, 2018 16:05:28 GMT -8
Yes, the controls are on the bottom. I had been watching E Bay for about 2 months looking for a deal and right before Christmas I saw 2 pop up. I thought that for the kind of money I paid I should be safe. The face is black plastic so it should look good with the natural wood of the cabinet around it.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2018 16:57:22 GMT -8
Some folks like dorm style fridges that are 110V electric only. I prefer the 3-way like what you purchased. I usually camp where there is no electricity and we hate running generators, so the gas option is the way to go.
Also, not sure if you have much experience with 3-way refrigerators, but the gas setting works better than the 110V setting. We learned over the years to just keep it on gas mode the entire time camping and never allow it to switch to 110V. Some have an "auto" setting that will switch it over to 110 V when your camper is plugged in. We keep ours on "manual" to avoid that problem. These things take a very small amount of gas to run for an entire week, so no need to worry about that either.
Make sure you are on level ground, as these gas absorption units rely on gravity to move the chemical fluid rather than a compressor.
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irmatrailer
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Post by irmatrailer on Jan 30, 2018 7:48:59 GMT -8
Thanks for the advice. This will be our first experience with a 3 way refrigerator. Are there any others out there that have used the Smad 3 ways?
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mel
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Post by mel on Feb 1, 2018 14:47:11 GMT -8
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mel
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Post by mel on Feb 1, 2018 16:01:22 GMT -8
I think I just need to be more educated about gas appliances. I think im scared of them because I dont know much about them and when I think gas I automatically think ahh im going to blow up lol Its silly really. I have a friend who lives in a mountain cabin that has no electricity and runs everything off gas lights and gas appliances and everything works fine and safe for him. My ideal situation would be for my original gas fridge to just work and then I dont need anything new, but I know the odds of that are slim.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 1, 2018 16:07:22 GMT -8
Regardless of how new and reliable gas appliances are these days, ALWAYS have a working carbon monoxide detector installed. Both, in your home and in your camper. That will give you the peace of mind to sleep at night. Safety comes first in everything we do.
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Post by vikx on Feb 1, 2018 21:25:26 GMT -8
"I am thinking about 12V and 110 fridge. They seem to cost less and I dont like the idea of gas running all night in the tiny camper. I believe my Airflytes fridge is gas only astral williams. I dont know if it works or not yet. vikx I noticed you mentioned 12v/110 above. How many hours of driving do you think it would take to drain the car battery? And also does the wiring just run to the 7 way wiring harness? I would also like to hear your opinion on keeping or tossing the original gas heater, I know there are a few debate threads on here that I will be searching for." A 12 volt fridge will not run off the 7 way cord. The amperage is low from the vehicle and is only for charging the trailer battery. You need a separate battery on the trailer to run the fridge.
If you are running on 12 volts on the road, it can and will suck your battery dry. I had a Ford start blinking the headlights in the middle of the night many moons ago, battery was so dead it wouldn't restart the truck... I do not recommend running on 12 volts when traveling. Use a jug of ice after pre cooling the fridge.
If the original heater works and is vented, it's fine to use. If it is cranky, then consider a Wave 3. You can have yours bench tested at any local RV shop for your peace of mind.
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