diagriene
New Member
Posts: 10 
Likes: 1
Currently Offline
|
Post by diagriene on Jun 15, 2017 6:17:01 GMT -8
Hello all, In my goal to have my trailer as safe as possible, I am having an electrician review the wiring and install a new inlet. Yesterday, while I was up there, I took a few pictures of the existing electrical, and so I know what I should buy. As is obvious, I know nothing about electrical. I'm unclear on what system I have currently. I will have a two-plug 15amp service on-site.  The current inlet. It clearly says "120Volt/35amp" on the rim of of the inlet. However, if you look at the metal label underneath, it reads "Volts 110 Cyc. 60 Amps 10". I double checked that amperage twice, and cleaned the label after I look the picture, and although the paint is gone, the metal engraving reads "10".  The fuse box. The label here reads "120/240 VAC .... 60A Mains". I'm concerned that if I'm getting 15A shore power, but the trailer label states 10A, that I will have to upgrade the wiring to 15A? Why is there so much conflicting information - that all looks original - about the amperage of the trailer? Is some max and some min? Enquiring minds...! I want to make sure that when I replace the inlet, I get the correct one. I don't want to bring an electrician all the way up there only to have the wrong items. Thanks in advance! Sandra |
|
chriss
Active Member
Posts: 241 
Likes: 97
Currently Offline
|
Post by chriss on Jun 15, 2017 17:23:28 GMT -8
For starters, the electrical connection is a Bargman inlet rated at 35amps/120v. These have been obsolete and out of production for decades and if you are missing the female end, it is nearly impossible to find one today. You are better off replacing the inlet with a more modern one.
The 35amp rating on the inlet cover only refers to the inlet, not the wiring your trailer is rated to handle.
Same with the breaker box. It's what it's rated to handle, not what it's using.
Your electrician will explain all this more in depth, but doesn't look like there are any issues a good electrican can't deal with. Make sure he has RV electrical experience.
|
|
mel
Senior Member
1964 Shasta Airflyte
Posts: 1,729
Likes: 523
Currently Offline
|
Post by mel on Jun 15, 2017 18:04:51 GMT -8
|
|
diagriene
New Member
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
Currently Offline
|
Post by diagriene on Jun 16, 2017 2:39:47 GMT -8
Thanks very much chriss and mel. I will install a 15A service, as that makes the most sense. If the trailer is indeed originally a 10A, the electrician would have to rewire the entire system? Also, I do have the original female end. As I am upgrading to a new inlet, I will keep this around in case anyone else would like it. I can believe they're hard to find!  |
|
mel
Senior Member
1964 Shasta Airflyte
Posts: 1,729
Likes: 523
Currently Offline
|
Post by mel on Jun 16, 2017 4:24:45 GMT -8
I think its going to depend on what gauge wire was used to wire the trailer. Maybe unscrew the panel cover so you can see the gauge.
|
|
chriss
Active Member
Posts: 241
Likes: 97
Currently Offline
|
Post by chriss on Jun 16, 2017 12:31:08 GMT -8
I would do at least a 30 amp 120v service. You never know what you might add on in the future, or plug in.
You are fortunate to have the original plug ends. Your's is a little faded, but there are still people looking for those, so don't trash it.
|
|
diagriene
New Member
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
Currently Offline
|
Post by diagriene on Jun 16, 2017 17:53:33 GMT -8
Thanks! Just because I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around this (sorry - I'm both a slow learner and panicky about electrical)... If my current system is 10a, 110v, and the current internal wiring can support 15a based on gauge size, I would be okay to buy the inlet Mel linked, which is 15a, 125v even if my current system is 110v? I have a feeling the internal wiring is not 15a because the original shore power cord + female end is only 14awg - would it not make sense that the external and internal wiring gauges match? So, if that is the case and I upgrade the service to 15 or 30a, 120v, I would still be able to use an inlet rated to 125v because that's the maximum allowable by the inlet?
Also, how much do you think it would cost to rewire/upgrade the electrical? Total ballpark, of course. In the couple hundred dollar range? I think there is only one or two outlets in the trailer, and given that I only have 15a shore power and the trailer isn't going anywhere else, would it matter to have more than that?
I have a feeling I'll have to make the 4 hour round trip to the trailer one more time to fact-find before I can hire the electrician...
|
|
tonyg
New Member
Posts: 2
Currently Offline
|
Post by tonyg on Aug 20, 2020 17:15:53 GMT -8
Hi Diagriene
I would be interested in the cord.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Aug 21, 2020 9:27:47 GMT -8
Go with a 15 amp inlet providing the inside breaker is 15 amps. As Chriss said, the pieces are rated to handle more amps but don't have to. You can upgrade to a 30 amp inlet if need be. The connections and cords will be heavier. The main wires leading from the inlet to the breaker box should be 10 gauge.
It's very important that the electrician have RV experience. They are not houses and have specific rules. The main one is that the grounds and commons (white wires) are always isolated. Always.
Choose the electrician and share photos with him/her. S/he will know what parts are needed and what s/he is comfortable working with.
|
|
