mallon344
New Member
Posts: 4
Currently Offline
|
Post by mallon344 on Feb 25, 2017 17:54:12 GMT -8
Hi i am new to travel trailers and rvs and decided to learn by doing. I went out and got a new to me prowler. It has way more issues then i would have thought the entire front end was rotten to the point of being basically uncopyable upon removal of insides. I build town homes and remodel old homes and all sorts of random stuff but i know little to nothing about how these things were designed. If i just framed it up with stick frame construction and put horiozontal supports and metal plates then i suspect i will have made the frame too rigid to flex. Is that important or were they just trying to keep cost and weight down and interior space up with cleaver small wood framing? I had planed to remove bath front seating and keep kitchen and back. I dont want to move fridge and stove water tank etc as i suspect they are balanced. At this point i have towed it 50 miles and it tracked well. The tires are new and the bearing have been packed 6 mo ago. axels look solid no dents dings etc. Frame is rusty but seems sound. I have ripped out front and sides to door and most of the floor before realizing how screwy the framing is. like a H down middle of trailer with another H cut down middle and glued to outside of first H
|-|_|-| |-|_|-| |-|_|-|
Thats just weird, why not just run same skinny board all way the with and then put bottom wall plate over that. but i am guessing that there way was cheaper faster and strong enough when fully assembled.
Sorry for ranting i found aluminum corrosion in top left front where there had been a lot of water and i am feeling a little discouraged. wanted to share!
will upload photos when figure how
|
|
mallon344
New Member
Posts: 4
Currently Offline
|
Post by mallon344 on Feb 25, 2017 18:02:26 GMT -8
|
|
mallon344
New Member
Posts: 4
Currently Offline
|
Post by mallon344 on Feb 25, 2017 18:09:44 GMT -8
|
|
nccamper
Administrator
Posts: 7,744
Likes: 2,871
1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by nccamper on Feb 25, 2017 21:12:27 GMT -8
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Feb 25, 2017 21:56:50 GMT -8
Welcome Mallon344.
NC is steering you in the right direction. The skins should be lifted to repair sills and skirt boards below floor level. Edge wood is often rotted and is impossible to repair properly with the skins and roof in place.
We are here to help you, so stick with us. It's much easier from the outside in, plus the structural integrity of the trailer will be maintained.
|
|
mallon344
New Member
Posts: 4
Currently Offline
|
Post by mallon344 on Feb 26, 2017 9:50:53 GMT -8
Thanks all! you are completely correct i found where the skirt board is suppost to run and it is pretty ovious that wall ply moves up from skirt board that seems to sit below level of floor and then is lag screwed into wall! I think i am going to stick a pin in this project till seattles dry season so i can do this right and save kitchen and back seating area. So glad i found this site!
|
|
mrmarty51
Leading Member
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 423
1972 HOMEMADE
Currently Offline
|
Post by mrmarty51 on Feb 26, 2017 11:34:56 GMT -8
Welcome to VTT Mallon344. Do not get discouraged with Your camper. It will all go back together better than it was when it was new. Just hang in here and if You have any questions just fire away. there are very nice people in here that will keep You going in the right direction for a very successful rebuild.
|
|
|
Post by aubryemogenerose on Oct 20, 2020 4:54:08 GMT -8
I have a 18’ 1976 Prowler and ended up gutting it down to the stick framing. I too noticed the floor supports and scratched my head. I reinforced the subfloor and inserted new insulation. Curious about the status of your remodel!
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Oct 20, 2020 11:01:54 GMT -8
|
|