cree62
New Member
Posts: 14 
Likes: 4
Currently Offline
|
Post by cree62 on Jan 10, 2017 18:06:07 GMT -8
My wife and I just purchased 1962 Cree camper - we are selling our 79 VW Westfalia camper that we fully restored because I learned that engine work is just not a strength of mine. The VW restoration was a 'no expense spared' restoration and I would like to be a bit more careful with this one in terms of money. Anyways, I am trying to game-plan for the spring when I will start the work. Although I am new to vintage campers, I am fairly good at most DIY projects. ANY and ALL advice would be much appreciated.
There is quite a bit of dry rot in the front and rear under the windows, so I tore off most of the interior paneling. I am planning on ripping 2by4's to the correct depth and replacing all of the damaged areas. I'll just use non-treated lumber since the treated reacts to the aluminum. For the curve in the roof, I am planning on using exterior grade plywood- 2 pieces of 3/4 inch thick glued together). I am probably going to peel up bottom 2-3 feet of the siding in order to get better access when replacing the framing and to make sure there isn't more damage. After the framing is done, I am going to take out all the windows, probably the door, and the trim.
The roof has a bunch of gunk/crap on it, but there is hardly any water damage underneith, so I think it's pretty water tight right now. This is also where I need the most advice. The tentative plan is to clean and strip off what I can and then use Eternabond tape on the seams. I am then going to use caulk for the seems around our vent and furnace stack (best caulk to use for this?). Lastly, I am leaning towards painting the roof with a white sealant of some kind. I know it probably won't do a ton of good in terms of sealing, but it would be nice to paint it for both looks and to keep the camper cooler in the summer.
Next, I am going to paint the rest of the camper- I've heard a lot of good about the rustoleum brand. Again, recommendations are welcomed! I am probably just going to roll it on so save on cost (and so I don't have to worry so much about our kids dinging up a finish that's not perfect). I'm also going to paint the frame with black ZeroRust (leftover from painting the underside of our VW bus).
Next, I'll re-install the windows and door using butyl tape to seal. Before I insulate and put up new paneling on the inside, I'm going to probably upgrade the electrical and check to make sure there are no propane leaks.
Lastly, I'll get new tires on both wheels. Are there bearings that need to be checked/replaced also?
Sorry about the long post, I'm just wanted to make sure I'm on the right track. Thanks so much for your help!!
|
|
Ten
3K Member
Posts: 3,432
Likes: 1,467
70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
Currently Offline
|
Post by Ten on Jan 10, 2017 19:05:41 GMT -8
 Howdy. Now get ready to hold onto something, this crazy undertaking can be a thrilling ride! I don't have a lot of time to post right now, to answer your questions all in depth, but let's just say, "start here: http://www.cannedhamtrailers.com " You will find many videos of all different stages of trailer restoration there, right down to the nuts and bolts of the construction of these old projects. There may be other videos and such out there, but these are absolute must-see in order to understand the way they are built and how to get around the difficulties of things like obsolete parts and unavailable materials. "Outside-in"...this is the proper method for rebuilding, as they are put together in layers, rather than hung from a framework. Travel trailers are not constructed like houses are. Real fast one more thing... NO CAULK!
Openings through the walls and roof should be sealed around fixtures using putty tape. Seams can also be dealt with without the taping process, although there have been some real good results seen with the Eternabond stuff. The particulars can be found by digging through various subject threads here.
Remember we are here to help, and anything that sounds like criticism is just that, critical analysis, and nothing personal. So most of all, have fun!
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,853
Likes: 3,775
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Jan 10, 2017 19:14:53 GMT -8
Howdy. Now get ready to hold onto something, this crazy undertaking can be a thrilling ride! I don't have a lot of time to post right now, to answer your questions all in depth, but let's just say, "start here: http://www.cannedhamtrailers.com " You will find many videos of all different stages of trailer restoration there, right down to the nuts and bolts of the construction of these old projects. There may be other videos and such out there, but these are absolute must-see in order to understand the way they are built and how to get around the difficulties of things like obsolete parts and unavailable materials. "Outside-in"...this is the proper method for rebuilding, as they are put together in layers, rather than hung from a framework. Travel trailers are not constructed like houses are. Real fast one more thing... NO CAULK!
Openings through the walls and roof should be sealed around fixtures using putty tape. Seams can also be dealt with without the taping process, although there have been some real good results seen with the Eternabond stuff. The particulars can be found by digging through various subject threads here.
Remember we are here to help, and anything that sounds like criticism is just that, critical analysis, and nothing personal. So most of all, have fun!
What he said.... |
|
nccamper
Administrator 
Posts: 7,792
Likes: 2,906
1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by nccamper on Jan 10, 2017 20:04:35 GMT -8
I second the suggestion that you stop all demo and work from the outside in. In a restoration that isn't a total tear down to the frame, the skin comes off, framing comes out one section at a time, panels under that get replaced and it goes back together in the same order with new electrical, insulation and a vapor barrier after the framing is back in. Most vintage campers gain their strength from the overlapping layers. In most cases it's virtually impossible to overlap them working from the inside. You can do a cheap paint job and get better results than rolling. It's the prep, not the painting, that takes time. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/5166/paint-camper-200?page=1Have fun! |
|
msgoehring
Full Member
Just call me Margaret the shellac, buff, sand an shine queen.
Posts: 860 
Likes: 303
1957 Westerner Deluxe
Currently Offline
|
Post by msgoehring on Jan 10, 2017 21:55:44 GMT -8
I'm going to totally agree with everything you've been told so far and go a couple steps further. When restoring or repairing a vintage trailer, you must start from the OUTSIDE and work your way in. You must leave the cabinets, closets and other interior items in place because they provide the structural integrity of the trailer. In order to safely and properly repair rot or water damage in a trailer you need to start with removing the skins and shoring up the frame while it is still supported by the interior. You also need to check the boards that hold the body to the frame which are called skirt board (this one is the bottom board of the trailer body) and the sill board (which is attached to the frame to nail or screw the body to) as these are likely to be rotted also. Here is a thread that tells you the names of the trailer frame parts: vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/1093/vintage-trailer-framing But before you even do anything else please, please check out these following two resources that are available from members of this forum who restore and repair vintage trailers for a living. They have been a complete life saver not just for me, but for many others. You have no idea of what can happen if a trailer is not repaired correctly, but one thing is you can be driving down the road and the entire body of the trailer will come off the frame like this one did:  The first resource, which was already given to you but I'll give you a little more details on is mobiltec. He makes videos and posts them on YouTube of his work sharing how to do everything on a trailer from start to finish. His website is: www.cannedhamtrailers.com and I recommend you watch this video first so you better understand why these things have to be repaired from the outside in: www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDdpZgSD1JM . He does all these videos for free to help others who are interested in vintage trailers, but he does appreciate donations from his website if you feel he's been a help and are so inclined. Next is a wonderful repair manual put together by another long time member that restores trailers, whose forum name is vikx. You can find the manual here : vintagetrailerrepairmanual.weebly.com I am so glad you found this forum. There are so many wonderful people here who are very willing to answer any questions and help with anything you may come up against. I also want to mention how much useful information is on this forum. I'd start by looking through the tutorials and/or the exterior and interior repair threads. And welcome to VTT, I hope you stick around and let us help you make your trailer your dream. This place has really helped me and I've only been here since April. |
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jan 10, 2017 23:45:41 GMT -8
Welcome Cree62!
What they said. We are here for you and want to help. So ask.
We are excited to lend our experiences and expertise.
|
|
cree62
New Member
Posts: 14
Likes: 4
Currently Offline
|
Post by cree62 on Jan 12, 2017 4:50:41 GMT -8
I definitely appreciate the advice, but not what I was hoping for! I watched a few of the videos and it definitely makes more sense why to take the siding off and build from the outside. Do I also need to take the roof off? If so, would it be wise to put a new roof on? Just tough for me to justify considering the cost...
|
|
windborn
Active Member
Posts: 341
Likes: 70
1957 Sportcraft 15
Currently Offline
|
Post by windborn on Jan 12, 2017 5:38:04 GMT -8
Hi cree62! I was in your boat about two years ago. I was in denial that I needed to take the whole thing apart for a long time. But now that I've gone through with it I feel so much safer and my camper is a lot more functional. I also figured if I was taking the roof off I may as well put a new one on, and while it was definitely the most challenging part of the rebuild I'm really happy with how it turned out and no longer worried about leaks. I bought semi trailer roofing which is a thicker than what most people on here use, but I was able to pick it up with my dad's truck. I ended up spending about $280 on the roofing and then another $100 or so on the new j-rail (though you could potentially salvage yours).
I think we'd all love to see some photos!
|
|
mrmarty51
Leading Member
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 423
1972 HOMEMADE
Currently Offline
|
Post by mrmarty51 on Jan 12, 2017 5:49:07 GMT -8
Welcome to the forum cree.
A lot of good advice from some mighty fine people.
|
|
cree62
New Member
Posts: 14
Likes: 4
Currently Offline
|
Post by cree62 on Jan 12, 2017 6:15:39 GMT -8
I'd love to post a pic but can't figure out how...
|
|
msgoehring
Full Member
Just call me Margaret the shellac, buff, sand an shine queen.
Posts: 860
Likes: 303
1957 Westerner Deluxe
Currently Offline
|
Post by msgoehring on Jan 12, 2017 12:42:02 GMT -8
|
|
fleet16b
New Member
Posts: 17
Likes: 1
Currently Offline
|
Post by fleet16b on Jun 23, 2024 13:33:41 GMT -8
How can I start a thread? I'd like some advice on a restoration.
|
|
nccamper
Administrator
Posts: 7,792
Likes: 2,906
1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by nccamper on Jun 23, 2024 19:05:07 GMT -8
|
|
ruderunner
Active Member
Posts: 482
Likes: 103
Currently Offline
|
Post by ruderunner on Jun 29, 2024 2:38:56 GMT -8
I realize a full rebuild may seem daunting but, if you break things down into sub assemblies it's not overwhelming.
For example, remove 1 side wall and repair it as needed. This can be done on most campers by adding a little bracing to keep the roof supported while the wall is off.
If your floor is in excellent condition, this wall can be reinstalled but leave the roof loose. Do the other wall and slide the roof over to the repaired side.
If you have floor rot, remove the roof completely, then front and rear walls, then sides. Lastly the interior cabinets and walls. Keep things as assemblies and tackle 1 assembly at a time.
Yes, complete assemblies can be heavy and you'll need an extra body or 2 to help. You'll also need some sort of shelter to protect the project. Depending on area this may be a carport or lean to. Maybe a heated building.
One thing that is incredibly frustrating on any major project is having to spend excess time accessing and buttoning up at the end of the day. Having it readily accessible is much better. You can go tinker for an hour and just walk away until your next free hour.
I'm currently going through a major shop reorganization. Things had gotten so disorganized and cluttered it was difficult to accomplish anything, including walking around the barn.
|
|
Howdy. 
