blueduramax
New Member
Posts: 14 
Likes: 3
1956 Travel Eze 13 foot
Currently Offline
|
Post by blueduramax on Jan 7, 2017 14:25:23 GMT -8
My trailer 1956 Travel-Eze came originally with a hydraulic braking system. It was tied into the towing vehicle with a quick connect hydraulic line or something like that. The hydraulic brakes are still in place. In order to eliminate the electric controller in the towing vehicle I am just wondering if a surge brake on the trailer would work. The frame is "A" frame which narrows the hitch options considerably. Where to put the front lift jack could also be a problem with a new "A" frame surge hitch in the way.
Or should I just get a whole new axle with electric brakes and do the conventional hook up? Of course the need for brakes is probably optional with the small trailer, but I want to have them anyway.
I was wondering if anyone else has solved this problem or has any sage advice.
|
|
mrmarty51
Leading Member
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 423
1972 HOMEMADE
Currently Offline
|
Post by mrmarty51 on Jan 7, 2017 15:30:21 GMT -8
Could rebuild the hitch.
Make a T affair with some heavy box steel. Build it so You would cut off the nose of the hitch that the trailers hitch is mounted to, cut it so the the long of the T fits through by an additional foot or so then welt the short ends of the T to the insides of the A frame. Mount the hydraulic surge unit to the new portion of the hitch.
Mount the trailer jack to the center of the T that is inside of the A frame.
Another option would be to measure the bolt pattern that holds on the backing plates for the braking shoes then see if there is an electro unit that would fit to your axles.
Just watch out for the setback that might be built into the backing plates. like, if the backing plates are flat then the new electro brakes backing plates would also need to be flat. if they have a back set to them then the electro brakes backing plates would aalso need that same set back.
Personally, I think that dealing with the hitch might be cheaper and a less of a hassle.
Just be sure that if You take it to a welding shop that whoomever does the welding is certified to weld hitches. I had to pass those tests to be able to weld hitches and weld on bridges and truck frames when I worked for the Mt. DOT. If I didnt pass the test, they would not allow me to weld on the above mentioned items.
|
|
mrmarty51
Leading Member
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 423
1972 HOMEMADE
Currently Offline
|
Post by mrmarty51 on Jan 7, 2017 15:34:18 GMT -8
Of couse, too, dealing with changing axles might be the easiest way to go and that could be done under the shade tree.
Long as the spring pads are in the right positions. If they are not then, it is back to the welding shop. LOL
|
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jan 8, 2017 0:00:04 GMT -8
Hydraulic brakes are hydraulic brakes.
The old style connector won't work with modern vehicles. However, with a talented welder, you could add the surge brake mechanism to your tongue. The tongue is actually two pieces and with movement activates the brakes via a master cylinder on the tongue.
The new style surge brake may or may not fit your tongue. Anything can be modified, but it's good to ask and measure first. I went to buy a new surge tongue and it didn't fit my 67 Land Commander.
|
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on Jan 8, 2017 13:27:03 GMT -8
Surge brakes are nice as they don't require any special controllers on the tow vehicle. There are may different surge couplers out there and with proper measuring and a little shopping you should be able to acquire one that would require little or no modification to your trailer tongue accept removing the old and adding the new. You also need to make certain that the new master cylinder bore is the proper size to activate your existing brakes. This is simpler than it sounds as most will tell you how many brakes it will activate and the approximate weight range. Example if you have one axle you don't want one designed for a tri-axle heavy duty trailer.
The main reason that most mfgs went to electric brakes is they are cheaper to buy and install.
|
|
blueduramax
New Member
Posts: 14
Likes: 3
1956 Travel Eze 13 foot
Currently Offline
|
Post by blueduramax on Jan 8, 2017 14:58:58 GMT -8
This actuator/hitch looks like it might work for my single axle. www.easternmarine.com/titan-actuator-2492800 It says it is for 6000# and 600# hitch. I need to investigate the condition of my existing brakes as soon as weather moderates somewhat to see if it is worth saving. I like the idea of surge brakes and the ability to switch vehicles without doing a bunch of wiring. I am hopeing that one of those universal, side frame jack wheels will be large enough for my trailer also. Thanks for the ideas. Nice to know it is not a crazy idea. |
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jan 8, 2017 23:27:39 GMT -8
Blue, the side frame jacks are not as stable as a mid A frame jack. Something to think about...
|
|
blueduramax
New Member
Posts: 14
Likes: 3
1956 Travel Eze 13 foot
Currently Offline
|
Post by blueduramax on Feb 14, 2017 17:46:26 GMT -8
I ended up using the original axle and springs with new electric brake backing plates and complete set up bought from the local trailer supply. The original drums (12 inch) were set up to go electric or hydraulic. At any rate, for about $115.00 the brakes are new electric. I tested it out this week and am very happy. Glad to keep the original hitch and jack.
|
|
mrmarty51
Leading Member
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 423
1972 HOMEMADE
Currently Offline
|
Post by mrmarty51 on Feb 15, 2017 12:11:21 GMT -8
You did it right blueduramax.
|
|
