mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Mar 28, 2016 10:37:32 GMT -8
Like I have said in the past electrical is not my best area of knowledge. I just want to make sure to have enough power to run the things I would like to have in my camper. I do plan on switching out my ice box for a mini fridge, and I am contemplating putting a tiny microwave in the closet. I would also like to add a few plugs and charging station in the trailer. I'll have a toaster.. and some string lights. That about all I can think of. I was planning on doing 30A, would that work fine? Also are there any diagrams out there? I was planning on following this diagram, but I thought I read on here that I shouldnt for some reason. www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx |
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Mar 28, 2016 12:44:43 GMT -8
Vikx has gone through this setup several times, and unfortunately, I can't find the schematics at the moment. A new 30-amp setup should be plenty to run what you are describing here. A 30-amp box split into two circuits, will run all of what you are planning, and probably then some,especially if you do not have air conditioners in that plan...
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Post by vikx on Mar 29, 2016 21:35:30 GMT -8
The eTrailer link is not working, at least not right now... It is the 7 WAY WIRING DIAGRAM (12 volt) that is erroneous on that site. Not sure if they have anything on 110?
Anyway, upgrading the 110 trailer system to 30 amps is not difficult. You MUST install a new inlet and 10/2 wiring to the breaker box as the main power supply. The box will usually support three circuits, two 15 amp and one 20 amp, more than enough for a smaller vintage trailer. The reason you can "up" the amperage at the box is because you will not be using all the items on each circuit at one time, so that means the box can support a little less than double incoming amperage.
I caution folks to use a licensed electrician if you are not very comfortable with wiring and designing a 110 system. Trailers do have some idiosyncrasies (common and grounds are NEVER bonded in a travel trailer) but basically follow the NACode. Better Safe.
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Mar 30, 2016 4:33:54 GMT -8
The eTrailer link is not working, at least not right now... It is the 7 WAY WIRING DIAGRAM (12 volt) that is erroneous on that site. Not sure if they have anything on 110? Anyway, upgrading the 110 trailer system to 30 amps is not difficult. You MUST install a new inlet and 10/2 wiring to the breaker box as the main power supply. The box will usually support three circuits, two 15 amp and one 20 amp, more than enough for a smaller vintage trailer. The reason you can "up" the amperage at the box is because you will not be using all the items on each circuit at one time, so that means the box can support a little less than double incoming amperage. I caution folks to use a licensed electrician if you are not very comfortable with wiring and designing a 110 system. Trailers do have some idiosyncrasies (common and grounds are NEVER bonded in a travel trailer) but basically follow the NACode. Better Safe. Im not sure why the link isnt working, here is a pic of the diagram  |
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ladywendolyn
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1964 Golden Falcon
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Post by ladywendolyn on Mar 30, 2016 7:10:22 GMT -8
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Post by vikx on Mar 30, 2016 10:05:38 GMT -8
Thanks Mel, the diagram shown is for 12 volt tow wiring. It is also NOT correct for a 7 way color code. Correct 7 way code: Green is Tails and Running lights Brown is Right Turn Red is Left Turn Black is Hot 12 volts (charge line) Blue is Brake Hot White is Ground Yellow is Backup lights or AUX eTrailer lists this INCORRECT color code: Green is Right Stop and Turn? Brown is Running lights? Yellow is Left Stop and Turn? "Purple" is Backup lights? (there is no Purple wire, either in a premade cord or stamped into the plastic plug) So: eTrailer lists FOUR wires that are incorrect. They have mixed up the 7 way and 4 way code. These diagrams have caused a world of woe when people try to wire their trailers. My advice to all of you: DO NOT FOLLOW eTrailer's WIRING DIAGRAMS OR COLOR CODES. There is a thread on this board listing the correct 7 way code below: vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/421/7-tow-wiring |
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Post by vikx on Mar 30, 2016 10:36:41 GMT -8
I think I should say here that vintage trailers have THREE electrical systems. They interact but each is a separate system:
1. 110 Electrical: This is the "house like" electrical; outlets and lighting. It operates when plugged into a campground receptacle via a cord. Parts include a 110 inlet (either 15 or 30 amp), lighting and a few outlets. Most vintage trailers came with one circuit. Today's upgrades consist of a new inlet, wiring and an extra circuit or two.
2. 12 Volt Trailer System: This provides power for 12 volt items inside the trailer. The main power source in a vintage trailer is a Deep Cycle Battery. Very few vintage trailers had much of a 12 volt system and many none at all. Upgrades can include a water pump, cigar charging plug, Fantastic Fan and extra 12 volt lights.
3. Tow Wiring: This system consists of your running and tail lights, trailer brakes and a charge line for your battery. All trailers should be wired according to the accepted RV 7 way code and include a 7 way cord and plug. (Brakes and charging are impossible with a 4 way flat connector.)
The three systems interact but will also work independently.
1.The 110 system powers a battery maintainer that charges the 12 volt system battery.
2. The 12 volt system can include a converter, which converts 110 power to 12 volts.
3. The Tow Wiring provides a battery charge line during travel.
I hope this makes sense. Each system is designed and installed separately.
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