Fan-tastic Fan-install photos
Mar 22, 2016 19:25:40 GMT -8
mobiltec, ladywendolyn, and 2 more like this
Post by nccamper on Mar 22, 2016 19:25:40 GMT -8
I made this it's own threat because I goofed on one thing that seems worth highlighting. Also, this fan didn't come with installation instructions.
To start, Shasta cut the original hole too small and not square. They must have pounded the original vent into the hole. Easy enough to fix.
Notice the wood is a sticking out from the skin? I did that on purpose during the rebuild because I was reusing the roof skin with a pre-cut hole. Guessing where that hole will land exactly seemed like a mathematical impossibility.
Since I had a fairly flat roof on the Shasta 1500 I made the framing around the vent an inch smaller (13"x13" instead of the 14"x14" needed) and the framing out of 1x6". This gave me plenty of framing and trim area. If for instance the hole lands 1/2" to the rear, I trim accordingly. I hope that makes sense.
As the pros here advise, I added a 1/2" plywood crown around the vent. This raises it up so the water doesn't settle against the vent.
I also added a back-up line while rewiring. Look carefully and you'll notice there are two black lines.
I then cut out the birch that I replaced when redoing the framing. Sort of heartbreaking.
Then I realized...although vikx told me to do it in another thread...I didn't leave enough space on the side for the wire nuts to fit. I had to cut it out (Hack) with a multitool.
As far as placement of the wires, there are two choices based on notches on the fan for the wires to slide up out of the way: 3" from the front or 3" from the back on the driver's side.
(I wish I had taken a photo)
I did a double layer of putty tape.
One thing I need to do tomorrow is put a little gutter seal on the screw heads.
I called the company to ask if the screws provided were rust proof...No. Replace them with stainless
The trim goes on last. If needed, you can shorten it with a sheetrock knife.
Overall it's very easy to install.
One last thing, the tech department and asked about the fuse and power use. They say on high the unit pulls 1.9 and has a built in 4amp fuse. "If you use a 10amp fuse in your block the fan will burn out long before the fuse". In truth, the camper fuse block is just a redundancy.
The fan on low isn't as loud as I expected. I think it was designed for a much larger camper. On high it's like a wind storm.
.
To start, Shasta cut the original hole too small and not square. They must have pounded the original vent into the hole. Easy enough to fix.
Notice the wood is a sticking out from the skin? I did that on purpose during the rebuild because I was reusing the roof skin with a pre-cut hole. Guessing where that hole will land exactly seemed like a mathematical impossibility.
Since I had a fairly flat roof on the Shasta 1500 I made the framing around the vent an inch smaller (13"x13" instead of the 14"x14" needed) and the framing out of 1x6". This gave me plenty of framing and trim area. If for instance the hole lands 1/2" to the rear, I trim accordingly. I hope that makes sense.
As the pros here advise, I added a 1/2" plywood crown around the vent. This raises it up so the water doesn't settle against the vent.
I also added a back-up line while rewiring. Look carefully and you'll notice there are two black lines.
I then cut out the birch that I replaced when redoing the framing. Sort of heartbreaking.
Then I realized...although vikx told me to do it in another thread...I didn't leave enough space on the side for the wire nuts to fit. I had to cut it out (Hack) with a multitool.
As far as placement of the wires, there are two choices based on notches on the fan for the wires to slide up out of the way: 3" from the front or 3" from the back on the driver's side.
(I wish I had taken a photo)
I did a double layer of putty tape.
One thing I need to do tomorrow is put a little gutter seal on the screw heads.
I called the company to ask if the screws provided were rust proof...No. Replace them with stainless
The trim goes on last. If needed, you can shorten it with a sheetrock knife.
Overall it's very easy to install.
One last thing, the tech department and asked about the fuse and power use. They say on high the unit pulls 1.9 and has a built in 4amp fuse. "If you use a 10amp fuse in your block the fan will burn out long before the fuse". In truth, the camper fuse block is just a redundancy.
The fan on low isn't as loud as I expected. I think it was designed for a much larger camper. On high it's like a wind storm.
.
