gary350
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We should have gone camping today it is going to snow 6" tonight.
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Post by gary350 on Mar 1, 2016 5:02:42 GMT -8
I need a new tow vehicle but I don't know what to buy, I need some ideas?
How well does you vehicle tow and how heavy is your camper?
I drove through Walmart parking lot today very slow looking at other peoples vehicles trying to get ideas.
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Mar 1, 2016 17:32:05 GMT -8
Something that has somewhere in the vicinity of twice the towing capacity of the weight of your trailer. We pull Hamlet (a ham-style Compact) with a 2009 BMW X3, It does well tracking, unless a string of semis goes by, then we just slow down to make sure we're in control. Hamlet doesn't have brakes, but the monster ones on the X3 stop it quite nicely.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Mar 1, 2016 19:45:18 GMT -8
I was towing with a Ranger V6 3.0L. Tow rating 3600 pounds. Sure, maybe downhill with the wind at your back.
Bigbill gave me a good piece of advice...whatever they say it can tow safely, cut it in half.
I settled on Consumer Reports most reliable truck. Also the only 100% American made truck. I'm a big believer in buying American.
Toyota Tundra.
I bought the 5.7L rated 10,000 pounds. Translation: 5000
Wind? No problem. Semi passing? No problem. Space to load Glamping gear? No problem. Climbing up into it? No comment.
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Mar 1, 2016 21:41:21 GMT -8
I'm still driving my 1996 Toyota t-100 3.4liter V6. 287,000 miles on the clock, no rust, no system failures, towed things it probably never should have but has never complained. Made in Fremont California and would rather live there than here in Ohio, but too bad. I test drove a new Tacoma which was fancy, like a car, but couldn't hold a candle, power-wise or gas mileage-wise to Old Big T. Guess that's why Toyota discontinued them after only a few years. It came with a 5000# frame mounted hitch and towing package, and over the last 20 years the driver's seat has conformed to my skinny butt like a high priced lazy boy.
I'm a fan of keeping 'em till the wheels fall off, and since I was lucky enough not to have payments when I drove it off the showroom, a few hundred bucks here and there for brakes or timing belts doesn't hurt a bit... it will probably out live me.
Unless she's rusted out, spend the $2000 to get road worthy, and use the $20,000 you just saved for a herd (?) of hams, eh?
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Mar 1, 2016 22:19:10 GMT -8
I need a new tow vehicle but I don't know what to buy, I need some ideas?
How well does you vehicle tow and how heavy is your camper?
I drove through Walmart parking lot today very slow looking at other peoples vehicles trying to get ideas.
Tell us some of the physical characteristics of your trailer: weight, tongue weight. Are you able to balance it to about a tongue weight of 10% of total loaded weight? Does your trailer have its own brake system? Do you use weight distributing/anti-sway gear? "Towing Capacity" as stated by the manufacturer is but a small part of the towing equation. Tongue weight, especially with unibody vehicles is critical. Transmission overheating is probably more of a concern than engine overheating while under heavy load. Manufacturer "tow packages" are very helpful. Tell me about your trailer and I can help you out. I have an excellent setup for my 2600 lb. 1960 trailer (w/electric brakes) with an '03 Jeep Grand Cherokee (V8 4.7L), equipped with tow package. Tow package includes hitch, 7 pin wiring, and transmission cooler. I would not travel anywhere without my Andersen anti-sway/weight distributing hitch equipment. Making a stable towing scenario depends on a number of factors, not just tow vehicle towing capacity.
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gary350
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We should have gone camping today it is going to snow 6" tonight.
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Post by gary350 on Mar 2, 2016 6:06:41 GMT -8
I bought a 1964 Phoenix gutted. The only thing inside the camper was the ceiling storage area over the front window, over the kitchen cabinet and the wooden part of the sofa area at the back. Camper probably weighs about 1000 to 1200 like this with no propane and 2 car tires. I am a model airplane builder I can build strong and light weight so I built a full kitchen up front the whole thing with counter top, 3 drawers, cabinets, sink, is about 100 lbs. The real queen size mattress in the back probably weights 100 lbs. I build a small sofa between the bed and kitchen it weighs about 30 lbs. I am guessing the gutted camper was probably 1000 lbs maybe 1200. Manufactures built them heavy. All the propane is gone to save weight, no tanks, no stove, no pipes, no furnace, that saves about 200 lbs. The kitchen has an electric griddle, toaster oven, crock pot, microwave, coffee maker, refrigerator, total weight about 100 lbs. The microwave is 20 lbs we often leave it at home. 14 quilts and blankets, clothes, food, supplies, maybe 70 lbs. In the rear storage area, electric chain saw, small axe, jacks, boards, rope, tarps, tire tools, about 50 lbs. Total weight of the trailer might be 1500 to 1600 lbs. Soon as I buy a bathroom scale I will make a balance beam scale 5 to 1 ratio with a 2x8 board and weigh the trailer. Tongue weight is too heavy for me to lift. It has to be in the 300 lb range. The camper has electric brakes and they work good I rebuilt them and SUV has tow package. No sway bars. My SUV V8 will pull the camper up to 50 mph like nothing but above 50 it gets harder. I know law of physics says when the speed doubles wind resistance triples. My vehicle has to work to get the camper up to 60 and it struggles hard to get it up to 70 mph. I can hold it as 70 fairly easy on a flat level road but RPMs are at 2300 instead of 1200 as usual and gas mile is reduced by half at 70. I can poke along at 55 save gas and relax.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Mar 2, 2016 6:19:35 GMT -8
"Drive it till the doors fall off..." Great advice. I've never had a car loan in my life and I'm a happier man because if it. I had a 4cly Mazda truck for 26 years which I bought used. This hobby was the only reason I sold it. I moved up to a used 3.0L V6 which was a mistake. Not enough power. When I went into the dealer I was appalled at what new trucks cost. An SUV designed to tow (As Gary said elsewhere) costs as much as $60,000. Crazyland. I told the dealer to only show me something that could tow 5000 pounds without struggling...in the mountains. He kept saying "You can trade it in if your not happy in a couple of years!" I told him, "If I buy the right tow vehicle, you won't see me on a dealer lot again for 20 years." The $2000 camper I bought 4 years ago is really costing my wife a lot of money.
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Mar 2, 2016 7:05:15 GMT -8
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Post by bigbill on Mar 2, 2016 7:49:37 GMT -8
Making a stable towing scenario depends on a number of factors, not just tow vehicle towing capacity. This is a very true statement. Safe towing requires many things. the first thing you have to have is a safe, capable tow vehicle. Next you need the proper hitch setup. Now you have your tow vehicle connected to something but is it safe to tow? Things on your trailer such as tires, brakes,and lights are obviously required to be in good shape. Then one of the most often over looked things is how is your trailer loaded. Do you have cupboards/shelves loaded securely, will things fly off or out of them. Are cupboard doors latched, including refrigerator? Did you pile so much stuff in the rear that you canceled out your tongue weight? Then is your trailer structurally sound, will it stand the loads of towing such as caused by wind, vibration, twisting, bouncing over bumps and all of the other weird things it will encounter on your trip. NOW FOR THE MOST IMPORTANT THING ON THE LIST. Are you mentally ready to deal with the additional things that towing your trailer involves, things such as reduced vision caused by that big box behind you, increased distances required when entering or exiting the roadway. Do you know what to do in case the trailer starts to sway, or if a tire blows? Another important thing on the equipment required list is rear view mirrors. Does yours allow you to see past the trailer well enough to change lanes in heavy traffic if you need to get over to make a turn? Will you be able to back up if required? This is all just food for thought, it is not meant to scare anyone just trying to help you have a safe enjoyable vacation that your trailer can allow you to have. With a little proper fore thought and preparation you are on your way to creating some enjoyable times for you and your family that will be remembered forever.
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Mar 2, 2016 9:48:46 GMT -8
Gary… it looks like your tow vehicle is well suited. It's a Chevy Suburban V8? So it's body on frame and not unibody… this means that your tongue weight is not so much of a concern. Unibody construction frames cannot take much tongue load at all; you'll bend the frame. I've seen fixed windows pop out! I'm not sure why your TV is struggling so with only a 1500 lb. trailer w/ electric brakes?? I'm pulling about 2500 with a 4.7L. Certainly under certain conditions… head/cross winds, long stretches of uphill, the engine labors. Does your TV have an "over drive off" button? This keeps the transmission in a lower gear, which gives you the proper torque to get up those hills and also minimizes transmission shifting. If available, I would use that feature always when towing, esp. on the open road where there are elevation changes. If you don't have that, maybe you have gear choices in your transmission shifter. Third or second, depending on the demand, would be appropriate. For flat road, you can let it go to whatever its overdrive gear is… but downshift before you hit any upcoming hills (both uphill and downhill).
Regarding your tongue weight. Your TV can certainly take the 300 lbs., but that is waaay front heavy for a 1500 lb. trailer. About double what it should be. I find it unlikely that you really have 300 up front, with the light weight materials you used to make your front galley… and no propane tank(s)? Something's not right there. Let us know when you are able to measure that with scales.
Ideally, your TV and Trailer should be almost level. The only way to accomplish that (esp. with 20% tongue weight!) is with weight distribution, which will take some of the tongue weight and transfer it to the front axle of your TV. This makes for a more integral TV/Trailer "unit" and also keeps the steering wheels of your TV firmly planted on the pavement! This is especially important in wet weather. Not enough weight in the front end of the tow vehicle is super dangerous… that's what too much tongue weight can do. The trailer ends up pushing your TV around. Conversely, too little tongue weight allows the trailer to "pick up" the back end of your TV. This is why balancing the trailer to 10% tongue weight is important to start.
BIGBILL: BTW, what would you do in the case of a blow out? Fortunately, I've never encountered that. Are you talking TV tire blow out or trailer tire blow out?
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Post by bigbill on Mar 2, 2016 15:13:03 GMT -8
First rule is don't panic Second rule is never jam on the brakes. Third rule is pray then let off throttle and stop slowly with gradual brake.
Seriously every situation is different but the above usually is best, but not always. How is that for an answer? If trailer is swaying sometimes manually applying the trailer brakes will help stop the sway. Jamming on the tow vehicle brakes tends to restrict steering control in most situations and make things worse.
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