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Post by Teachndad on Feb 27, 2016 14:17:24 GMT -8
Hi Friends,
What are the dangers of mold like the creeping brown blob mold that can be found in vintage trailers.
What safety equipment do you recommend to remove the mold?
How do you remove and at what point do you decide that the mold can not be treated and then the only way to get rid of it is to do a complete frame off restoration?
thanks,
Rod
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Feb 27, 2016 16:14:34 GMT -8
No mold is good, but we have found it in boats, cars,on furniture & in houses we've owned or worked on over the years. Especially in Southwest Florida.(and yes, in our current trailer) Disintegrating wood or other materials must be removed and replaced. Unless the mold is the black kind which has nasty health ramifications I think there are reasonable steps you can take. I'm not a health expert, but have done this many time and am still alive.
-First is obvious, find the source of moisture and stop it. -Wear a respirator. -Treat the area(s) with a 30% bleach solution or if it is really bad use a product like "Tilex" to kill the spores. -Next let the area dry as much as possible (use heat and /or de-humidifier.) -Vacuum carefully to remove any loose spores.(HEPA Filter)
Once you are confident that you've killed it you have the final solution which is to encapsulate the surface either with something like epoxy, shellac, varnish or (hope not)paint. If you do choose paint use a shellac based product like "Kilz" to seal before top coat. Containment is the goal if you have any doubts as to whether it has all been killed.
Really is a matter of the extent of mold present. Hope this helps.
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Post by danrhodes on Feb 27, 2016 16:47:52 GMT -8
IMO, the black mold scare was completely overblown, resulting in a whole industry of people mostly cleaning harmless mildew. Any mold I find in the trailer, or the house, I treat with bleach or even Clorox cleanup... If you are very worried, you can treat and encapsulate the area in kilz primer.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Feb 27, 2016 20:24:44 GMT -8
I agree with Danrhodes. Technically, there are mold spores on almost everything. If the mold is eating into the wood because of long term water exposure, that's different. But wood can be replaced.
Bleach will kill anything. And it's worth killing. It can really make you sick sleeping in a moldy camper.
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Feb 28, 2016 4:21:39 GMT -8
Forgot to mention that denatured alcohol will work on materials that you don't want to get wet with water, but it will soften previously shellacked surfaces.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Feb 29, 2016 7:52:38 GMT -8
IMO, the black mold scare was completely overblown, resulting in a whole industry of people mostly cleaning harmless mildew. Any mold I find in the trailer, or the house, I treat with bleach or even Clorox cleanup... If you are very worried, you can treat and encapsulate the area in kilz primer. And the antibacterial soap obsession is probably going to kill us all.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 29, 2016 21:36:50 GMT -8
When spraying any kind of solution at mold whether it be a bleach solution or something ready made, never spray directly at the mold. Spray up in the air and let the mist fall down on the moldy areas. If you spray directly at it you blow millions of spores into the air and they float around and grab on to other things in the area. Including you....
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Mar 1, 2016 5:51:23 GMT -8
And you know what happens with airborne spores. You get Spock laughing.
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gary350
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Post by gary350 on Mar 2, 2016 15:21:11 GMT -8
We had a mold problem in our house and bleach was not working. I did a lot of research and found the old timers used vinegar in the 1800s. Vinegar is still the best thing to kill mold. I sprayed the whole house ceilings, walls, doors, windows closets, cabinets, the mold is gone.
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carvelloafer
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Post by carvelloafer on Mar 3, 2016 5:21:05 GMT -8
Even though the jury is out on this product, conrobium, it is very safe to use. Bleach will not kill the spores. A product like conrobium covers the spores and as it dries it contracts and crushes them and in effect kills them. It also leaves a barrier to prevent the airborne spores from landing on the surface and growing. What it doesn't do is penetrate deep into the material to kill the hyphae so in theory the mold could grow out the backside. www.homedepot.com/p/Concrobium-1-gal-Mold-Control-Jug-025001/100654369I've used this a little in the house and have not seen a re-occurrence of mold in those areas. Keep in mind that mold needs three things to survive; moisture, moderate temperature, and food. Oh, and like Larry said, to begin spraying being aware of the airborne spores is how a product like conrobium works best. In fact they recommend on major abatements to fog the area as well as to surface treat.
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