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Post by shastagreenhorn on Feb 4, 2016 5:53:25 GMT -8
Hi, I'm a new member and a newbie to the vintage trailer world. My husband and I just bought a '71 Shasta Compact that needs some work (we are still sussing out to what extent). We know we need to remove the skins on the back section to repair water damage on the back wall where the window leaked. We do not have a garage, so all of the work will need to be covered with tarps and then possibly a trailer cover we have on order from ebay.
My question is, has anyone else had luck doing repairs outdoors and keeping things watertight in between repair sessions? Are tarps enough, or are there other tricks I should be aware of? I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area, so snow is not an issue. This year we are getting a lot of rain, and we're willing to wait until a drier spell to do the work. We can store the skins indoors so they don't get damaged. Otherwise, we'll be using the exposed two car parking pad in our smallish front yard.
Thanks a million for any suggestions, and I'm excited to use some of the great advice on restoration this board has to offer.
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swirlygirls
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Post by swirlygirls on Feb 4, 2016 6:19:28 GMT -8
Welcome. I live in the NW also and rain and wind is certainly an issue. I was lucky enough to find a friend with a barn to put my trailer while I worked on it, good thing too because it took three years. If I HAD to do it outside, knowing what I know now, I think I would have bought one of those portable car ports. Some of them have side walls (essential) and you could always add a tarp to cover the front. It's really hard to do substantial work under a tarp or in between rain storms. Good luck.
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Post by shastagreenhorn on Feb 4, 2016 6:31:04 GMT -8
Thanks, swirlygirls. I really like the idea of a portable carport with sides, even canvas or plastic would be an improvement. I need to make sure our odd little parking space could handle it, but it is worth investigating.
I have rural roots and am used to friends and relatives with lots of barns, outbuildings and land. I have been lamenting my city life lately for exactly that 'friend with a barn' you describe. I've even considered renting a storage unit, but I am told most have a prohibition on working on cars. Don't know if that extends to travel trailers...
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Feb 4, 2016 6:58:05 GMT -8
Greetings shastagreenhorn, Tarps will be the least expensive, but also a royal PIA. The silver poly tarp from these guys: www.tarpsonline.com/default.aspx will last the longest. People have used the vinyl portable carports with mixed results. The main issue is their light weight and wind. If you have the $ and the space, you may want to consider a metal RV carport. I believe in most places these can be erected without a permit as they are not considered a permanent structure. You can break them down and take with you if you move, you can easily sell them when you no longer need it, plus they can provide long term protection for your trailer after you complete the rebuild. Good luck with your project and keep us posted.
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Post by shastagreenhorn on Feb 4, 2016 7:18:59 GMT -8
Thank you for the tip, RinTin. Since we are realizing that each step forward requires 50 substeps in prepwork and unexpected costs, I am going to look into getting a metal carport used from craigslist. I really appreciate the link, too.
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Post by vikx on Feb 4, 2016 21:02:09 GMT -8
Do some sly research with the city and county before buying a portable carport! I had to tear mine down after the neighbutt reported it. County said if was up for 6 months and no longer considered portable. Great. I wouldn't necessarily mention who or where you are, just get general info and the rules. Might even be online. My cousin had to get rid of his because of a HOA, beware of them as well.
I agree on the canvas ones liking to fly away. If you have a protected area next to your house, one might work. The tarps suggested will work but a shelter is better.
Good luck!
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Post by shastagreenhorn on Feb 5, 2016 6:50:29 GMT -8
Thanks, vikx. Problems with the city are a concern as we live in an urban area that is likely to have strict laws regarding structures. We have wonderful immediate neighbors who would understand if we erected one for a couple of weeks, but we don't know if others we haven't met will complain. Our city is inefficient, so I might get away with erecting one and removing it before they get around to processing complaints. I'm thinking our best strategy is to pick a sunny four day period of time where we can devote all day to this project while the back skins are removed. I really hope four days isn't too optimistic. We're new to these things. :-)
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Post by katiebronleewe on Feb 5, 2016 10:52:50 GMT -8
This is how we are working through the winter! We live in Tennessee so snow is not the norm, but it's kept our skin less trailer dry so far with lots of wind and rain. We got the tarp from the link mentioned above. It is a huge pain to get off and on, but it was our only option as we don't have a carport or garage big enough. You do what you gotta do!
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Post by shastagreenhorn on Feb 6, 2016 6:01:22 GMT -8
Thank you for the picture, katiebronleewe. It's nice to see the tarps linked above in use so I can get an idea of the size to order. I also like the way you secured it to where it is covering under the trailer a bit. Our trailer cover will not be long enough, so a good tarp like this will be necessary. I also feed a few stray cats, and I want to ensure while the skins are off they can't make their way in to be the first ones to set-up house, as cats are wont to do.
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carvelloafer
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Post by carvelloafer on Feb 6, 2016 6:53:03 GMT -8
When I rebuilt the Lil Loafer, (which is about the size of a Compact), we did it outside in the winter, my shop at that time was just the woodworking shop that is too small for a trailer. What I did is use multiple tarps. One that went from hitch, over the roof, and down to the bumper area but only wide enough to come about halfway down the sides. Then I used smaller tarps on the bottom half of the sides. This allowed me to open up just the area I was working on and if the weather turned bad I could recover it fairly quick. I used screws with fender washers to fasten the tarp to the framing while it was skinless. Here are a few shots I dug up, it was kind of nice going through my old pics to find them, . Even though I have a covered area now, I wouldn't be afraid to do it with just tarps if I had to. The other thing with to be careful of with your local authorities is whether they let you park a trailer for extended times. I live in the country so not a problem, but the town close to us has a 5 day limit on parking any RV in your driveway, (bunch of commies is what they are!!!)
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 6, 2016 7:57:19 GMT -8
Using a single tarp large enough to diaper around the whole trailer is the easiest to work with. I have been using tarps for 10 years now. I think I have seen it all. As said above, use a tarp from Tarps Direct. Choose "Poly Silver".. It will outlast your project. If you remove the top vent you can poke a 2x2x8ft pole up through there to make it sort of a tee pee style thing which will create run off without puddling. Put one or two old socks over the end to protect the tarp. I use one tie on each side in the middle down to under the frame. That keeps the tarp on the trailer and you can either roll up the rear or the front for work. You will only work on half the trailer at one time anyhow. I did this on the Forester in Colorado where it rained every day for an hour or so in the month of June. I got the project done in 17 days and never got my work wet. When you bag up the trailer at the end of the day just diaper the rear corner to the front corner on both sides with ties and you are good for the night. Then as I said the next time you work on it just untie the diapered corners and roll the rear or front back up over the trailer to expose the work. In the photo below I also have sort of an awning tarp over the trailer just to keep the sun off me when it's clear outside. I live in the desert. Below you see the 59 Forester I did in CO with the post up through the top vent and the front of the tarp rolled up to that post so I can work on the front. At the first sign of rain I can roll the tarp back down over the front and diaper it up easily. The owner bought this tarp from HD and it only lasted the 3 weeks I worked on the trailer. The Silver Poly Tarps from Tarps Direct will last over a year.
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Post by shastagreenhorn on Feb 7, 2016 7:12:10 GMT -8
Wow, thanks carvelloafer and mobiltec! The pictures and descriptions are really helpful in showing us exactly how to do it. I was starting to feel dispirited, but this gives me hope that we can pull it off. I am definitely taking heed to the quality of the tarps we buy (I'm going to order them from the place everyone suggested). I didn't realize the run of the mill ones were so subpar to holding up. I'm glad we found out before one ripped or fell apart and exposed the wood to rain.
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carvelloafer
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Post by carvelloafer on Feb 8, 2016 5:19:55 GMT -8
While I certainly appreciate a good tarp, (I have gone through far too many on stuff over the years), if this is the only use you plan for the tarp and don't think you will need it afterward, you can get away with a little less expensive, in my opinion. Even the cheapos I used on my Loafer well outlasted the project. But if you want the tarp to last for years, then definitely look into the heavier duty ones.
Keep us posted.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 8, 2016 7:12:05 GMT -8
While I certainly appreciate a good tarp, (I have gone through far too many on stuff over the years), if this is the only use you plan for the tarp and don't think you will need it afterward, you can get away with a little less expensive, in my opinion. Even the cheapos I used on my Loafer well outlasted the project. But if you want the tarp to last for years, then definitely look into the heavier duty ones. Keep us posted. The tarps from Tarps Direct are about the same price as the crap you buy in the big box stores. Even after shipping costs are added you are still only paying a couple of bucks more. So why would you buy that cheap crap that is made on purpose to fall apart in the sun? Also the cheap crap in the big box stores are not water proof. They are only water resistant. The poly tarps from Tarps Direct are water proof. Another good thing about these tarps is the reinforcement in the corners are real reinforcement. Not a look alike that does absolutely nothing. And the coup de grass is that they have many more grommets than the cheap crap does. Go check out the prices at Tarps Direct. I think you will be impressed.
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