62scotty
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Post by 62scotty on Jan 14, 2016 15:33:26 GMT -8
Hi Everyone, New member here! Thanks for the wealth of knowledge and passion for these awesome little boxes that won't quit! I know that new posters to forums like these tend to beat a dead horse, so I'll try not to be that guy  . I've done extensive research on here and haven't found a clear picture/verbal description of how to join plywood end to end. My scotsman has 1/2" plywood walls and i'm attempting to replicate the original walls. It doesn't look like the whole wall needs to be replaced, only the back 3 or 4 feet. 1) In general, what is the best way to join 1/2" plywood end to end? 2) Is it possible to join (patch) my new plywood to the existing plywood wall that is free of damage. It would be especially handy if this could be done without completely removing the wall. My girlfriend and I are one week into our rebuild and we are so excited that both of us have had trouble concentrating at work! Thanks for any and all input, Nick |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 14, 2016 16:14:13 GMT -8
Hi Nick,
Welcome to the board... If it were me and it probably never will be, I would rebuild the entire wall. I don't know a whole lot about how the Scotsman was made other than the fact that they have solid walls. I didn't know they were only 1/2 inch though. So if it were me, I would replace the entire wall by laminating two pieces of 1/4 inch together and staggering the joints. So if you have a 10 foot long by 6 foot high wall to replace, put two four foot by 6 foot together side by side along with a two foot piece. All quarter inch. Then laminate a two foot piece on to the first four foot piece. Then the two other four foot pieces laminated to the rest thus staggering all the joints by two feet. You end up with a half inch thick piece of plywood that is ten foot long and 5 foot high.
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chriss
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Post by chriss on Jan 14, 2016 16:17:26 GMT -8
The easiest way to do it for what you need is use biscuits and glue. I work for a millwork company and thats how we usually join sheets of 1/2" plywood.
You can also get a tongue and groove router set and do it that way, but thats more suitable to thicker material. You can also route or dado out an overlap, which I would do if I was building new walls. You can also pocket screw it, but I have yet to try it on a 1/2" butt joint.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 14, 2016 16:27:08 GMT -8
The easiest way to do it for what you need is use biscuits and glue. I work for a millwork company and thats how we usually join sheets of 1/2" plywood. You can also get a tongue and groove router set and do it that way, but thats more suitable to thicker material. You can also route or dado out an overlap, which I would do if I was building new walls. You can also pocket screw it, but I have yet to try it on a 1/2" butt joint. I don't argue on here much but I don't think any of your methods would be strong enough Chriss. The plywood of today is junk to begin with. I just don't think a joint like that will be strong enough. Especially butting new plywood to old. It's hard to even find a sheet of plywood that isn't curved/warped these days. We pay premium prices for lumber and it's all junk. |
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davek
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Post by davek on Jan 14, 2016 19:08:35 GMT -8
How bad are the bad parts of the plywood? I repaired some of mine with epoxy. Can you post pictures of the damage?
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62scotty
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Post by 62scotty on Jan 14, 2016 19:36:44 GMT -8
I've heard many mixed reviews of biscuit joining anything less than 3/4".
Laminating 1/4" plywood is a very interesting idea. Would you just recommend liquid nails and even weight using something like bricks to weight it all down?
I'll have better pictures Saturday morning! I'm holding off on removing the skins until I can move it into the shop. Turning out to be a longer project than I thought...... Is there an echo on here?
Thanks everyone.
-Nick
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Jan 14, 2016 19:39:33 GMT -8
On my 69 Scotty I used a spline cutting bit in my router, cut a 3/16 groove in some 1/2" a/c interior/exterior ply, 1/2" deep in each edge and a spline that was 3/16 X 7/8" wide,glued and clamped, and far stronger than the original stapled joint.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 14, 2016 20:19:52 GMT -8
I was thinking more like Locktite construction adhesive. It's thinner than liquid nails which in actuality is used for it's adhesive attributes but also as a cushion. You don't want the paneling to get to thick and Locktite is a very strong bond. I use it to glue framing to my interior paneling. And yes on the weight. Maybe clamps all the way around isn't a bad idea.
Then there is Chriss and Kirkadie's ideas. Kirkadie has actually used his method in a trailer that is still in one piece so I won't argue that one. Although that means a little tooling up.
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Post by vikx on Jan 14, 2016 20:55:07 GMT -8
Welcome 62 Scotty. Sometimes the ply pieces for the walls can be attached with corrugated fasteners that pound into the wood. Then, on the inside, cabinets, the closet and one by boards complete the joint. Most Scottys were designed so that the ply walls had a lot of support at seams. You might visit the Serro Scotty site and peruse the rebuilds here: www.nationalserroscotty.org/rebuilds/index.html |
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Post by Ross on Jan 17, 2016 4:11:17 GMT -8
I repaired a 1966 Scotty Sportsman and only replaced what was needed and had no problems. The owner finished the interior and repainted the exterior himself. 1966 Serro ScottyI have a 1960 Scotty Silverside that I will restore exactly the same. |
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62scotty
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Post by 62scotty on Jan 18, 2016 15:08:50 GMT -8
Now that we have the skins off, I'm feeling better about just patching the back three feet of the sidewalls and replacing the front and rear plywood walls all the way up to the 1"x2" ceiling supports. The other wood on the sides is discolored and some was slightly wet but all of it feels structurally sound. I'm planning on putting wood hardener on the rest of the plywood that we're keeping in place and filling in a few areas with wood epoxy as per Daveks recommendation. Still not sure what joint I'll use but i'm leaning toward a spline joint.   |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 18, 2016 17:21:55 GMT -8
Cool.. Ya that's not really all that bad and I bet that old plywood is stronger than the new crap you can buy today. LOL...
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Post by danrhodes on Jan 18, 2016 19:09:17 GMT -8
Cool.. Ya that's not really all that bad and I bet that old plywood is stronger than the new crap you can buy today. LOL... Ask me how I know... |
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Post by vikx on Jan 18, 2016 21:52:11 GMT -8
Ditto on what they said...
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