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Post by vikx on Dec 2, 2015 22:38:14 GMT -8
Rich, one thing I'm seeing is the fact that the siding is not "loose". The door is still in place and HEAVY. The windows could be causing side movement as well.
You've got to make the new framing FIT the skins. That may mean reworking/cutting your repair pieces. Me, I would remove the door, windows and any outside fittings. Remove attachments and at least the bottom side skins to do your adjustments.
Opening a trailer like a tin can doesn't really help in the long run. It may seem faster to repair as you are doing, but making things fit is much more difficult.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2015 6:45:32 GMT -8
As always Vikx thanks for responding with your thoughts.. first I apologize that you have to see me doing it wrong by opening it up like a tin can.. I don't know what is the culprit. I totally hear you about heavy items connected to the wall causing a strain, but I would be really discouraged if I took all that off and it was still the same problem. I have a weird feeling I would still be in the same position. So the bottoms of all the skins need to be lifted up just for this kind of repair? My goodness. Definitely overwhelming. I'm still trying to get the stupid screws out of the j rails. It's coming but they are so rusted it's just a slow process. Make the framing fit the skin. Hmm I know what you're saying but I guess I dont. Thought that's what I was trying to do.. Lol sorry I am so dense!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2015 6:54:34 GMT -8
Oh.. wanted to add that one of my challenges is knowing how to make the framing so the skin will indeed fit around it tightly but nicely. If the skin is pulled back how do you know? For someone in my position I can't simply replicate the original framing member it was so bad. And if it was not a corner piece I could manage. But of course, it is.
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Post by danrhodes on Dec 3, 2015 7:06:10 GMT -8
Oh.. wanted to add that one of my challenges is knowing how to make the framing so the skin will indeed fit around it tightly but nicely. If the skin is pulled back how do you know? For someone in my position I can't simply replicate the original framing member it was so bad. And if it was not a corner piece I could manage. But of course, it is. Can you copy the other wall?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2015 8:17:22 GMT -8
I am not sure. The other side isn't in perfect shape either with the condition of the wood, but if I tried to copy the other side how would I go about doing that? Thanks
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Post by danrhodes on Dec 3, 2015 8:48:06 GMT -8
I am not sure. The other side isn't in perfect shape either with the condition of the wood, but if I tried to copy the other side how would I go about doing that? Thanks You'd have to lift the skins on that side and trace a template. All that really important is the outer curve, so many folks will replace thin bent boards with wider boards cut to this profile.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2015 9:07:30 GMT -8
Funny you say that because that's what I did on the side I have opened up and then the rear skin had the issues it has. Wasn't expecting that. So yes I follow you there. Really it's not the frame piece that's the issue it's the fact that the trailer isn't square or the rear skin is being pulled slightly from something. Or like was stated heck maybe a factory defect.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Dec 3, 2015 10:09:46 GMT -8
Funny thing, I was so focused on the new framing I didn't even look to see if the windows and door were still on. That's why magic acts work.
I agree that removing them should help lossen things up.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2015 12:46:41 GMT -8
Just got these new windows in. Bummer! Oh well. I had no idea I would have this much trouble replacing a corner frame.
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Post by nccamper on Dec 3, 2015 13:00:23 GMT -8
It's not "trouble", it's a challenge.
We may have covered this...
The rear wall isn't bowed out in the middle?
Top, middle and bottom measurements of the rear skin all match? Is the mid measurement shorter?
How does the wall you worked on look when you put a straight edge (or straight 2x4) top to bottom? New wood sometimes bows when left in the damp weather.
The camper I'm working on now will really amaze me if the roof, front and rear all match up to all the new framing. If not..."Hello Steve at Hemet RV!"
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2015 14:29:39 GMT -8
Nccamper I'm so embarrassed. It's great advice you're giving me to make sure the rear wall isn't bowed. And in fact it is.. because of this ac unit I'm sure. Although the windows and door can be a factor I bet this is the biggest part of my problem... propped it up and so the pressure isnt on the wall and almost all of my issues went away.
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Post by nccamper on Dec 3, 2015 15:11:32 GMT -8
Rich, I strongly recommend the AC comes out for the entire repair process. The Windows rear and side too. You'll be very, very happy that you did it. In fact, you are trying (IMO) the impossible now.
One last thing, without beefing up framing the weight of the AC is too much for the wall. In fact, I wouldn't even attempt driving on the open road with a window AC. Others may disagree.
Have you considered replacing the home made window with a jalouise?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2015 16:54:22 GMT -8
Excellent questions sir. Lol let me see here. I appreciate your thoughts, the windows were just replaced with 2 layers of putty tape around the outside last week. So that stinks. But the AC unit for sure I need to take that out. As for the birch inside I never even had any paneling besides the mdf the po put on. So it's down to the framing inside. Definitely not trying to do things totally wrong, I also know though that I can sit around and ask you all every little thing. Haha! So gI've it to me, go ahead and knock me over the head. Tell me your thoughts.
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 3, 2015 18:49:30 GMT -8
I just saw this thread for the first time... Please Rich. Take the AC unit out of the window. Your life will be much easier LOL...
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2015 20:40:52 GMT -8
Haha. Yes sir mobiltec sure will, as soon as I figure out how to get it out! I don't know if he built that frame around the unit because that sucker is in good. Won't be easy to get it out. But I will be definitely needin some way of having AC at dome point, so it will have to go back in after repairs..
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