ckz72reddale
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1972 Red Dale 12' "Foxy"
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Post by ckz72reddale on Oct 6, 2015 6:58:25 GMT -8
I have some questions about the best way to approach the roof on my Red Dale. It looks like someone put roofing tar on it at some point (ugh!) the vent sticks to it when it warms up! But the seams are exposed and I am worried that they could start letting in water. NO signs of it yet, but I don't want to wait until then! So, since the roof is so gloppy, I think I will want to re-coat the entire thing with something more appealing, I was looking at Dicor Metal Roof coating. Any thoughts on this? Would you recommend just coating over the tar mess, since I don't see how I would ever get it off! And Until then, can I seal up the seams with a lap sealant until I am able to get to the complete re-coat? Also, should I wait until I reseal the entire roof to replace the JRail, which is now sealed with caulk (ugh! again) or can I do that beforehand? I want to get this baby sealed up as quickly as possible, but don't see getting the roof seal until later this month. We will be storing her indoors for the winter, so it'll have plenty of time to cure in a dry environment. As always, Thanks for the advice!!      |
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Post by vikx on Oct 6, 2015 23:27:00 GMT -8
"Sealing the entire roof" will not make it waterproof. Unfortunately, some PO coated the roof and probably caused more damage than leaving it original.
If I were doing it, I would try to scrape as much debris off as possible and inspect the metal condition. (rot, powdering, pinholes, etc) Factory seams rarely leak unless someone/something has dented the roof.
Most of the time, the leakage occurs at the J rails. Removing the J rail will show a lot more than you think. Dried out putty, gaps and dark areas show where water has penetrated.
Re-coating a roof will not improve leak issues. Sorry it is such a mess.
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ckz72reddale
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Posts: 96
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1972 Red Dale 12' "Foxy"
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Post by ckz72reddale on Oct 27, 2015 7:15:28 GMT -8
Thanks vikx. We are considering just replacing the roof, since I tried to scrape and got about a 2" patch off in 1/2 an hour! It is an ooey gooey mess. Husband thinks it's the stuff you seal driveways with. Clever. So, wondering what type of aluminum I need to price out for the replacement roof. What thickness is recommended and, since I know nothing about aluminum, why would the 1st one below be preferable to the 2nd? The 2nd certainly gives me more flexibility in sheet size. I think we can work with 3 - 4' x 8' sheets. Trailer body is @ 7' wide and 12' long, but there is quite a wrap up around the front and back from the body aluminum. Found the following at a local metal supply:
A.K.A: Sheetmetal
ASTM: ASTM B209-10 (Standard Specification for Aluminum and Aluminum-Alloy Sheet and Plate)
Alloy: 6061-T6
Characteristics: Lightweight, semi-smooth surface with a dull mill finish.
Workability: Excellent candidate for most processing techniques. Most versatile of the heat treatable aluminum alloys, offers good corrosion resistance.
Applications: Wide variety of uses from Aircrafts to Trailers.
Cost: 0.05 4'x12' $124.37/sheet or 0.032 4'x12' $142.98/sheet
OR
A.K.A: Sheetmetal
ASTM: ASTM B209-10 (Standard Specification for Aluminum and Aluminum-Alloy Sheet and Plate)
Alloy: 5052-H32
Characteristics: Lightweight, semi-smooth surface with a dull mill finish.
Workability: Excellent candidate for most processing techniques. High strength with good corrosion resistance. Non-heat treatable product.
Applications: Aircraft, Marine, and Commercial grade parts.
Cost 0.05 4 'x 8" $61.20/sheet 4' x 10' 76.50/sheet 4' x 12' 91.80/sheet or 0.032 4' x 8' 33.52/sheet 4' x 10' 41.92/sheet
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Post by bigbill on Oct 27, 2015 13:04:24 GMT -8
How do you plan to join the sheets together to prevent leaks?
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ckz72reddale
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Posts: 96
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1972 Red Dale 12' "Foxy"
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Post by ckz72reddale on Oct 27, 2015 15:11:10 GMT -8
How do you plan to join the sheets together to prevent leaks? It is currently seamed, so I was planning to look at how it was done originally and try to replicate that. |
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Oct 27, 2015 16:42:15 GMT -8
I would suggest doing a little research here on the board. This issue is very common and there are a couple different approaches that can work very well. First, Hemut Valley RV. They can definitely get what you need, including all the help you need to measure correctly and all. I apologize I don't have the contact information for them on hand. The best way to go is to get a one-piece to replace anything that has seams in it, which is entirely possible with a new installation. Next may be to find a local company that manufactures or repairs large truck bodies and may be able to provide the sheet aluminum locally. This can save a bit on shipping cost. Here is one: www.schweetcruisers.blogspot.com/2012_11_01_archive.html |
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ckz72reddale
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Posts: 96
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1972 Red Dale 12' "Foxy"
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Post by ckz72reddale on Nov 11, 2015 14:46:23 GMT -8
Got this reply back from a local supplier that carries RV siding: --
Yes, we do have aluminum roofing. It comes 103" wide and cut to whatever length you need. .023 weight. We charge a $25.00 cut fee and it runs $20.00 a running ft. We need a least 1 weeks notice of when you'd be picking it up
Doe this sound like a good deal? It would be @ $240-275.00 for the aluminum for a solid roof. I'd be able to pick it up, so I would not have to worry about shipping charges.
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Ten
3K Member
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Nov 11, 2015 16:12:23 GMT -8
Without knowing real pricing comparisons, I would say it is a real good deal not to ever have to put up with leaks in seams again....
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Post by vikx on Nov 11, 2015 23:24:10 GMT -8
My little Corvette roof was $500 for about 12 feet. (dropped to the rear and front windows) So yes, a good deal. Be sure the seams are factory sealed.
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