|
|
Post by wisconsinjoe on Aug 5, 2013 5:56:11 GMT -8
I just read the excellent article through this topic called "Batteries and other electrical stuff." My goal is to convert all of my shore power (120v) lights in our small camper to 12v. I will use a good AGM battery to run these lights as well as a 12v fantastic fan. I can live without any line voltage outlets and don't need A/C for anything else. I can access the shore power through my original exterior connection to power something to charge my battery. So, can I just omit the converter and install a battery charger? From what I read in the article, converters have notoriously bad, non adjustable built in chargers, and that AGM batteries need precise initial and float charge limits, which I should be able to find in a charger. If feasible, what is the best charger available?
|
|
cowcharge
1K Member
Posts: 1,003 
Likes: 328
Currently Offline
|
Post by cowcharge on Aug 9, 2013 10:58:08 GMT -8
I don't have AGMs, so I can't recommend a specific charger. But AGM batteries do have particular charging voltages that they need in order to avoid damage (typically lower than flooded batteries), so you need to find a charger that is adjustable, so you can set it according to your particular battery manufacturer's specs. If you don't, you can ruin them through over or under-charging. So see what your battery manufacturer says, then find a charger that can generate those voltages. Only trust the actual manufacturer of your battery to give you the right voltage, not the charger manufacturers.
If you haven't bought your battery yet, consider that you can't put a hydrometer on sealed batteries to REALLY check the state of charge. They are convenient in that they can be mounted any way you want, you don't have to add water, and venting is not really a concern. But they're expensive, take longer to charge, and don't last as long. They're only "maintenance free" because of their lower charging specs. If you charged regular flooded batteries at AGM specs, they'd be maintenance free too.
|
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Aug 9, 2013 22:31:50 GMT -8
What Cowcharge said..
There are "smart" converters that do not ruin batteries. Progressive Dynamics is one brand.
I use a small battery maintainer with a normal flooded 24 series battery and not had any problems. I like to keep the 110 fixtures and run them when on shore power. All of my trailers have the two: 110 and 12 volt lighting/systems.
|
|
|
|
Post by wisconsinjoe on Aug 10, 2013 3:47:40 GMT -8
I ended up getting a 105 amp hour AGM deep cycle battery(for $175) and an Iota 30 amp converter charger with "IQ4" smart charger built in that specifically states is appropriate for AGM deep cycle batteries. I'm planning to do a setup similar to what "Gonekayaking" has done. I'm only running 4 lights and a Fantastic Fan, with A/C outlets (one directly from shore power, the other through a small Harbor Freight 400 watt inverter) for whatever, charging cell phones or computer. The current issue is replacing two light fixtures by the bed to handle the 12 volt. Want LED only. Will use some odd barrel shaped LED screw in bulbs for the other two. Want to keep those amp hours super low.
|
|
cowcharge
1K Member
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 328
Currently Offline
|
Post by cowcharge on Aug 14, 2013 14:02:03 GMT -8
I would still check the voltage put out by the charger and compare them to the voltage your battery manufacturer specifies for that particular battery. Charger manufacturers say a lot of things that aren't necessarily true.
|
|
curlycat
New Member
Posts: 13
Likes: 2
Currently Offline
|
Post by curlycat on Oct 30, 2013 20:39:30 GMT -8
I have a agm battery and a progressive dynamic converter charger. How do I incorporate the charging lead wire from my truck to also charge the battery while I am driving? Is this possible?
|
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Oct 30, 2013 21:34:24 GMT -8
Yes Curlycat, it is...
You will need a 7 way receptacle on the vehicle and a 7 way plug on the trailer. There is a specific place for the charge wire on each, labeled "Black". The fused charge line runs from the vehicle battery to the 7 way receptacle.
At the trailer, you will need to run the 7 way cord into a Junction box, where you can connect the tow wiring, brakes (if applicable) 12 volt charge line and Ground. Using the J box allows you to make clean connections and keep them out of the weather.
The charge line is connected to the battery hot, the trailer 12 volt inside line and a break away switch for the brakes if you have one. I use a 20 amp self resetting breaker to protect and make connections easier.
PM me if you need more information.
Note: DO NOT use eTrailer diagrams and color coding to wire your trailer. Their 7 way color coding is wrong.
|
|
cowcharge
1K Member
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 328
Currently Offline
|
Post by cowcharge on Nov 3, 2013 16:54:35 GMT -8
I would recommend using a battery isolator switch, rather than just hooking up to the hot wire in the truck. That way, the alternator will only be charging one battery at a time. When you try to charge two different-sized-and-type batteries at the same time, one always gets over or under charged and lives a much shorter life.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,822
Likes: 3,749
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Nov 5, 2013 18:50:23 GMT -8
I would recommend using a battery isolator switch, rather than just hooking up to the hot wire in the truck. That way, the alternator will only be charging one battery at a time. When you try to charge two different-sized-and-type batteries at the same time, one always gets over or under charged and lives a much shorter life. DITTO! WHAT HE SAID! It's a cheap device that isolates the batteries so they don't drain on each other and only works your alternator on one at a time giving it what it needs. Mine cost $49 I think at Kragen and I paid a guy to put it in. |
|
cowcharge
1K Member
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 328
Currently Offline
|
Post by cowcharge on Nov 7, 2013 10:05:33 GMT -8
I think mine was $36, at NAPA, for one suitable for up to a 95-amp alternator. Installation is pretty simple (except for wishing I had two elbows in each arm for reaching the back of the alternator in a Ford van), it's just unhooking one wire from the back of the alternator and moving it to the switch, then running two more wires from the switch to the second battery and the alternator. And mounting it. I used sheet metal screws and rubber-mounted it to the inside of the fender well near the alternator. Took maybe an hour.
|
|
restoguy
Member
Posts: 33
Likes: 8
Undetermined so far 1500 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by restoguy on Mar 23, 2014 19:40:10 GMT -8
I have really good luck with the charge wizard system that I installed in my 71orowler. It has all of the proper charge and maitenance features needed to maintain battery life. I also converted all of the lighting to led so our consumption is low with very good lighting. Best money we spent.
|
|
restoguy
Member
Posts: 33
Likes: 8
Undetermined so far 1500 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by restoguy on Mar 23, 2014 19:42:25 GMT -8
Btw AGM batteries are a waste of money. I used 3 12 volt deep cycles but plan to switch to 4 6 volt next year.
|
|
