bmrrwolfe
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Post by bmrrwolfe on Aug 27, 2015 18:00:46 GMT -8
I am at the point of rewiring my 1966 Scotty, and am starting from scratch.
I wanted to get some opinions on running just a 110 system, since I plan to always camp where I can have a hookup. Any suggestions on this?
I plan to have 3 interior lights & a porch light (probably all LED), 3-4 outlets, 19" LED TV, a dorm size fridge, Window unit type A/C & 900W mircrowave, which should be about all of the power demand.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by vikx on Aug 27, 2015 21:43:11 GMT -8
You'll need a 30 amp inlet and appropriate wiring to the breaker box. The A/C and Microwave are big draws. Most require a dedicated circuit.
I would consider using a separate cord for at least the A/C. Bypass the trailer system because you won't be using it ALL the time.
3 circuits:
1. 15 amps, Lighting and a few outlets (TV-nothing with a load)
2. 15 amp, More outlets (fridge, kitchen)
3. 20 amps Microwave; possibly a space heater but not in use at the same time
Also add an outside plug on the least used circuit.
Hope this helps.
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bmrrwolfe
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Post by bmrrwolfe on Aug 28, 2015 4:31:52 GMT -8
You'll need a 30 amp inlet and appropriate wiring to the breaker box. The A/C and Microwave are big draws. Most require a dedicated circuit. I would consider using a separate cord for at least the A/C. Bypass the trailer system because you won't be using it ALL the time. 3 circuits: 1. 15 amps, Lighting and a few outlets (TV-nothing with a load) 2. 15 amp, More outlets (fridge, kitchen) 3. 20 amps Microwave; possibly a space heater but not in use at the same time Also add an outside plug on the least used circuit. Hope this helps. Thank you, that does help. The other part that I was wondering about, was how many avoid the 12v system and converters completely. It's seems to simplify the process greatly, but since the camper is stripped down, now is the time to do woring easily, and want to have it done the right way. I'm familiar with wiring a house, so the wiring won't be an issue. But I thought I saw it somewhere on here (can't seem to locate it) but when installing the breaker box the grounding bars, need something specific. Could someone point me to that thread? Also any direction to what breaker boxes people have used,and tips on finding nice camper style 110 lights on a budget? I like the slim ceiling LEDs found in a newer camper but all I see are 12v.. |
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Post by vintagebruce on Aug 28, 2015 8:40:35 GMT -8
When it comes to electrical, you can not possibly go wrong following vikx's guidance...imho.
I believe ac's and microwaves are greedy electricity (amp?) gobblers in a vintage camper. Especially give that ac it's own bowl.
As far as using 12V or not, if you do not plan on going off the grid camping 110 should work for you...there are enough battery operated "camp" lanterns, fans etc in the camping section to make a tent comfortable that would adapt to a boondocking experience, you might never miss not having 12v. But, when you wire the camper, you could consider possibly wanting to run 12v, when you are ready to sell your camper and get another brand and/or style, and consider if the cost to wire now would be prohibitive, vs what it would add to the asking price when you do decide to sell. Might not be too much more expensive to run it now and never/very rarely use it.
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Post by rogerthedodger on Aug 28, 2015 15:38:22 GMT -8
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bmrrwolfe
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Post by bmrrwolfe on Aug 28, 2015 18:26:31 GMT -8
I think that the link I was looking for. Thank you. One of the biggest incentives I have seen for adding a 12V system, is for the light fixtures available, and possibly any future thoughts of boondocking.. I really like the simple 12V light fixtures available, and was wondering if anyone has found any for a 110V? Thanks!
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Post by vikx on Aug 28, 2015 20:51:28 GMT -8
I always wire for 12 volts. I do not normally install a converter, just a battery maintainer. It is sufficient to keep the battery topped off when plugged in.
The nicest 12 volt appliance is a Fantastic Vent Fan. They are amazing. I always wire for one, whether or not the owner installs the Fan at the time. It's so easy when everything is "open".
The 12 volt wires (ground and hot) run up to the K cabinet and over to the Fan. A 2nd circuit is handy for a couple of 12 volt ceiling lights. Also, if you have a front cabinet over the dinette, run 12 volts to that as well. Get the wiring in the walls; at least run to J boxes. You can always add fixtures later. A porch light is kinda cool, too.
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bmrrwolfe
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Post by bmrrwolfe on Aug 30, 2015 6:45:29 GMT -8
Now am I overthinking this, and at this point would a true RV converter be just as simple to install?? For anyone who is running a converter, what size are you running? and could I get some pictures of the install? Or has anyone put a new power center in their campers? Something similar to this? www.amazon.com/dp/B004LF4RAE/ref=twister_B00LGDZKIC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1Seems well priced, and simplifies the install to one contained unit. Thanks! |
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Post by vikx on Aug 30, 2015 20:49:44 GMT -8
I'm running a Magnatek 6300 NOS in my Hansen. It works really well but is not the best battery charger. A person has to disconnect the battery if you'll be plugged in over a day or so...
WFCO (World Friendship Company) are the lowest end converters available. I have replaced many in newer rigs. Perhaps consider Progressive Dynamics, Intelli Power or Parallax. Also be sure it has a smart charger, either built in or as an add on. There are more brands than above, some are all in one, some deck mount. If WFCO have parts available, maybe. A cooling fan really helps.
I don't have pictures, but they are fairly easy to install. You need heavy gauge wires from the battery.
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bmrrwolfe
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Post by bmrrwolfe on Aug 31, 2015 13:38:45 GMT -8
I'm running a Magnatek 6300 NOS in my Hansen. It works really well but is not the best battery charger. A person has to disconnect the battery if you'll be plugged in over a day or so... WFCO (World Friendship Company) are the lowest end converters available. I have replaced many in newer rigs. Perhaps consider Progressive Dynamics, Intelli Power or Parallax. Also be sure it has a smart charger, either built in or as an add on. There are more brands than above, some are all in one, some deck mount. If WFCO have parts available, maybe. A cooling fan really helps. I don't have pictures, but they are fairly easy to install. You need heavy gauge wires from the battery. I won't actually have a battery, but like the idea add one later or for the next owner. Thanks for heads up on the WFCO and that explains the low price. I will look into the other brands, but I was just more curious as the concept of the power center, and the ease of install since I have not really seen much info on them other then in newer campers. |
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bmrrwolfe
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Post by bmrrwolfe on Aug 31, 2015 16:57:34 GMT -8
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Post by vikx on Aug 31, 2015 20:02:21 GMT -8
I have no experience with the Parallax 6730. It is designed for smaller pop ups and campers. *Some* converters MUST have a battery as a buffer. Couldn't find anything on that, nor could I find whether it has a smart charger. I recommend doing some more research before making a choice.
It looks like an efficient little unit, all in one. I don't normally use a 30 amp main, just the regular 15 and 20 amp circuits. Also, you will have to upgrade to a 30 amp inlet if you're going to go with a 30 amp converter...
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Sept 1, 2015 5:10:29 GMT -8
vikx, what is your favorite converter and why?
I think I'll just go with a battery maintainer, a fuse box and transfer switch for 12v but it is worth asking.
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bmrrwolfe
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Post by bmrrwolfe on Sept 1, 2015 9:20:28 GMT -8
I have no experience with the Parallax 6730. It is designed for smaller pop ups and campers. *Some* converters MUST have a battery as a buffer. Couldn't find anything on that, nor could I find whether it has a smart charger. I recommend doing some more research before making a choice. It looks like an efficient little unit, all in one. I don't normally use a 30 amp main, just the regular 15 and 20 amp circuits. Also, you will have to upgrade to a 30 amp inlet if you're going to go with a 30 amp converter... Thanks for the input. From my research, it does not need a battery, it can charge a battery, but is not a 3 way (smart charger). I will be putting in a new inlet and use a 30a line. |
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