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Post by Teachndad on Aug 22, 2015 19:10:03 GMT -8
Hi, I need to start on setting up the frame for priming. What tools do I need? I scanned the titles of the threads in this forum and I didn't see one that was relevant. It seemed like they were all for painting the body and not the frame. I have an angle grinder that I have never used along with a 7 piece grinder attachment set from HF. www.harborfreight.com/grinder-brush-kit-7-pc-60486.htmlI have safety goggles and a face shield with gloves. I am planning on getting the frame ready by removing grease and rust with the angle grinder, though I am not sure exactly how to do that and what attachments I need and when to use them in the process. Most of the paint layers are haphazardly still on the tongue. The frame below the body is surface rusted. I have full access to the frame and I can wheel it out to work on it. I was planning on using Rustoleum primer in the taller professional can. Thank you, Rod
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Aug 23, 2015 6:58:46 GMT -8
Hi Rod, I used a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a twist knotted wire wheel on mine. I started with a wire cup wheel but it was slower going and didn't reach into the inside corners of my C-channel frame very well. Be careful, a knotted wire wheel is a wicked beast. I didn't try flap sanding discs, those might work well too and be a bit safer. If you use the knotted wire wheel, use a 4-1/2" variety rather than a 4", that is assuming you have a 4-1/2" angle grinder, as that size is just enough bigger to better reach into the C-channel. Removing the axle and springs makes this much easier, you may as well go through them at this point anyhow as there will never be an easier time to do so. There will be a few spots, like inside the coupler that you will have to do the best you can by hand with a wire brush and sandpaper. After I finished grinding and sanding I wiped my frame down with acetone then applied Ospho, which is a rust converter/primer, then just brushed on an industrial enamel paint. Next time I will spray the paint as brushing took forever. I used Ospho because I know it works, its cheap and I don't trust rust preventive primers. Doing this work with an angle grinder is not without it's hazards, especially if you are not very comfortable with it. You will quickly find that the guard will be continuously getting in the way and you will want to remove it, whether you do so or not is your call. The grinder will be used in all kinds of positions and you need pay diligent and constant attention at all times to which direction it is spinning and how it will react when it grabs an edge and violently ejects itself from the work surface. Yes, this will happen, more so to the uninitiated. Call around to see what it will cost to have the frame sand blasted. If it is within your budget, this is the direction I would go and plan to do so myself on my next project.
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stanley
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Post by stanley on Aug 23, 2015 7:21:08 GMT -8
How do air tools compare to power tools for grinding? I have a good power grinder but I also have a good compressor, so would be OK with investing in an air-powered grinder if the difference in performance and time spent is significant.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Aug 23, 2015 8:02:30 GMT -8
How do air tools compare to power tools for grinding? I have a good power grinder but I also have a good compressor, so would be OK with investing in an air-powered grinder if the difference in performance and time spent is significant. IDK, but I don't ever recall seeing a pneumatic grinder in a welding shop, must be a good reason for it.
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Aug 23, 2015 17:19:48 GMT -8
Hi Rod,
Rintin makes some good points, especially regarding power grinding. Mine was not a frame off. My searching regarding products to use led me to POR ( paint on rust) which I bought from Vintage Trailer Supply. The reviews from people who have used it are pretty convincing. I just used a couple of different size chisels and wire brushes (mostly by hand) to remove as much loose rust as possible. Then it's just a matter of using a special cleaner and primer before the final (2) coats of POR. It isn't cheap and is very messy, but I found it a good system. I think it is easy to go the "overkill" route with some of this stuff.
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bpmcgee
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Post by bpmcgee on Aug 24, 2015 9:13:25 GMT -8
I use my milwaukee electric angle grinder for removing rust and smoothing metal. My favorite attachments are a 40 grit and an 80 grit flap disk. They work great for removing rust, hardened tar and butyl tape, and even sanding!
I wouldn't recommend an air grinder for the job unless you have a BEAST of an air compressor rated for 100% duty cycle, which most people don't have.
B
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stanley
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Post by stanley on Aug 24, 2015 9:22:44 GMT -8
I have a Milwaukee 6130. Is that the same as yours?
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Aug 24, 2015 9:30:39 GMT -8
I have a Milwaukee 6130. Is that the same as yours? That's what I use, more than up to the task.
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stanley
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Post by stanley on Aug 24, 2015 9:34:26 GMT -8
Do you have a preferred make of disc and what sort of use do you get out of one? Should I buy HF cheapo discs or is it worth investing in something a little pricier?
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Aug 24, 2015 13:44:51 GMT -8
Do you have a preferred make of disc and what sort of use do you get out of one? Should I buy HF cheapo discs or is it worth investing in something a little pricier? I have no personal experience using flap wheel sanding discs so can't help you with this.
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Post by Teachndad on Aug 31, 2015 16:36:22 GMT -8
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bmxovich
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Post by bmxovich on Aug 31, 2015 19:16:35 GMT -8
Another vote for having it sand blasted. I've had several hotrod frames and one trailer frame done for between $100 - $150. I degrease them first to help keep the cost down. Quick and well worth the cost vs the time and materials to do it yourself. But I have done plenty the old fashioned way, when I was stubborn.
Degrease first. 4 1/2" angle grinder is one of my favorite tools. Use the wire wheels for tight areas, and a 80 grit flap disc for everything else. 5-10 discs should be plenty, depends how bad the rust etc is. I steer clear of the Harbor Freight discs and wire wheels though. They are of poor quality vs Nortons or even DeWalts. Be sure the wire wheels and discs are rated to the speed of your grinder. You don't want wires flinging out of the wheels etc. Oh, eye protection, must have.
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bpmcgee
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Post by bpmcgee on Sept 1, 2015 5:47:55 GMT -8
Another vote for having it sand blasted. I've had several hotrod frames and one trailer frame done for between $100 - $150. I degrease them first to help keep the cost down. Quick and well worth the cost vs the time and materials to do it yourself. But I have done plenty the old fashioned way, when I was stubborn. Degrease first. 4 1/2" angle grinder is one of my favorite tools. Use the wire wheels for tight areas, and a 80 grit flap disc for everything else. 5-10 discs should be plenty, depends how bad the rust etc is. I steer clear of the Harbor Freight discs and wire wheels though. They are of poor quality vs Nortons or even DeWalts. Be sure the wire wheels and discs are rated to the speed of your grinder. You don't want wires flinging out of the wheels etc. Oh, eye protection, must have. BMX, I've only ever used one. They last a LONG time. I couldn't tell you the brand I got -- there was only one brand available at Ace hardware when I bought it. I've got a 40 and an 80 grit. I don't use the 40 on aluminum -- it moves too much material. 80 grit I use on aluminum but only on areas that won't be visible so I don't have to worry about sanding all the scratches out. On wood I use the 40 grit to move lots of material. On steel I generally use the 40 to smooth welds and the 80 to cut rust, etc. B
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Post by Teachndad on Sept 1, 2015 16:50:43 GMT -8
So I decided to call around for estimates on sandblasting. What they hey, let's see.
First place I called was $200 - $250 Okay, fine. Kind of high, I can't afford that.
second place - They asked for me to email a picture. So, I sent them a link to my gallery and even pointed out that all my outriggers have been replaced with new steel. That means they have no rust or paint on them. That leaves only the C channel, tongue and tongue jack. I said I didn't care if they did the springs or the axle. The estimate came in for $400...
I am ordering a flapper disc set.
Later,
Rod
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bmxovich
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Post by bmxovich on Sept 1, 2015 19:10:39 GMT -8
Wow! $400? I guess I'd better bring my blasters a free case of beer An entire frame, I might go $250 if it were a lot of work / rust. I can earn more than that in the time it would take me to derust it myself. But since you have a lot of new metal, go for it. Save some cash.
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