mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Aug 21, 2015 3:58:18 GMT -8
Hi, someone had previously added some lights on the front and back on my Compact. I would like to patch the screw holes and not put lights there to keep it original. Seems like each light has 3 screw holes, so I would need to patch 18 holes. Any tips/tricks and technics and what to use would be awesome  for your viewing pleasure   |
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bpmcgee
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Post by bpmcgee on Aug 21, 2015 5:15:08 GMT -8
Mel,
On my last camper I used bondo on old screw holes and I wasn't very happy -- it didn't stick very well.
On this camper I'm trying something called Lab Metal which is a bit like JB Weld, but not as hard I think. It seems to be holding very well at this point, but it hasn't been through a winter yet.
B
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Aug 21, 2015 6:29:56 GMT -8
Short term I would take out the rusted screws and put in stainless steel screws wrapping the threads in putty tape. If that isn't handy, a little gutter seal with the new screws.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Aug 21, 2015 7:31:21 GMT -8
I think screws are an excellent idea. I filled my 100+ bullet holes with JB Weld, the white waterproof putty type. It's been almost two years and not one has popped out. The trick is to put aluminum waterproofing tape (the kind that has a thin butyl tape layer on it) BEHIND the holes first. But unless you are very patient, gifted person, (sand, fill, sand, fill, sand, fill) they are not going to be invisible.
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Aug 25, 2015 9:15:23 GMT -8
I think screws are an excellent idea. I filled my 100+ bullet holes with JB Weld, the white waterproof putty type. It's been almost two years and not one has popped out. The trick is to put aluminum waterproofing tape (the kind that has a thin butyl tape layer on it) BEHIND the holes first. But unless you are very patient, gifted person, (sand, fill, sand, fill, sand, fill) they are not going to be invisible. So when you filled them, was your skin off? so that you could get the tape behind them? I can't picture how to do that without the skin off |
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Aug 25, 2015 17:40:48 GMT -8
I pulled all my skins and taped the holes on the backside. My roof also was black, mildewed, moldy like yours looks and I scrubbed it with Borax, rinsed it with a diluted vinegar and water solution and it came clean as a whistle.
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Nov 26, 2015 6:08:04 GMT -8
I believe that these are the lights that were there, do you guys think it would be easier to just keep the lights? www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Starburst-Marker-p/vts-365.htmI don't care for the way they look so much, I'm just worried about patching all those holes. Also does anyone have one they could measure the distance between the screw holes? just want to double check that it is the same dimensions |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 26, 2015 6:55:40 GMT -8
It seems like a matter of esthetics. I would rather have the lights than the holes. Others may disagree. You're the boss. Your opinion is the only one that counts.  |
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Nov 26, 2015 9:37:35 GMT -8
Mel, if it were my decision, I would replace the lights. The starburst lenses are pretty cool when lit up, and even though not original to the trailer, there were some already mounted, and it woudl make it easier to deal with the holes that are left behind. The new lights will have only 2 holes, and two screws. I would clean off the old remnants of the markers, and fill the existing holes using JB Weld. Dab it in with a toothpick to fill but not get great big gobs sticking out. (Do one light position at a time, don't try to do 18 holes at once.) You can sand the JB down some if need be, then mount the new lights over the old positions. Use putty tape to back the lights, covering as much of the back of the light as possible. This will seal it for any gaps that the JB might leave, and around the new screw holes as well. You should be able to tap the aluminum with a regular sheet metal screw without drilling holes, so the screws will make their own new locations without a lot of fuss. Snug the light down till it starts to squeeze the putty, then LEAVE IT ALONE! You do not want to overtighten and strip the holes. After it sits a while you can snug down on the screws till you are confident they are "tight enough".... then trim the putty tape. My opinion is, the first time you light them up, you'll be glad you did all that!  |
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gary350
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Post by gary350 on Dec 2, 2015 7:37:32 GMT -8
Wipe that area with laundry bleach. After 30 minutes rinse and let it dry. Cut polyethylene plastic patches from plastic kitchen trash can bags. Put a squirt of white silicone on each hole. Put a plastic patch on the silicone. Push the patch down flat to the surface of the aluminum with a tiny wooden block. Tomorrow when it is dry peal off the polyethylene patch it will not stick to silicone. You can do the same thing with 5 minute epoxy. Bondo is strange it will stick to clean metal but not paint.
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