1961 Turnpike Rebuild

Hi!
Congratulations  and

That's one great find and you got it at a fantastic price.  Your enthusiasm and excitement as well as your early research will carry you far.  You will be fine.

The nice thing about buying from the original owner is the history.  Often times, we save these trailers only able to guess at their past.  Can you share any more detailed info about the trailer?

We look forward to your progress and updates.

Anyone reading this thread is chomping at the bit to see the interior.  Please share.

I like the way the original paint scheme flies from the bulge in front. 

Cheers,

Rod

Thank you Rod! I've been enjoying looking at your posts for the Andy rebuild. Thank you for the warm welcome

Sorry, but I don't have much more information than the name and the year it was built. Thankfully it had last been registered in 1985 and the DMV still had the pertinent information in their computer, or else I would have no title or registration. Nan doesn't know where any of the paperwork is. What kinds of questions should I ask her about it? I made a new friend in her that day and stop by once a week or so to just visit. She's a really neat lady and her home is filled with vintage awesome-ness! 

Here are the specs: 17' from tongue to rear bumper. 15' box. Gas Stove, Ice Box, Sink. No bathroom, but one of the pics shows a blue flowered box; and that my friend is a bucket with a toilet seat! LOL  Goucho bed in the rear, and the dinette would also make into a bed. Original gas lamp intact with shade! All other electric is 110v (I think). 

The Jaclen Manufacturing Co. built truck campers. The kind that fit in the bed of a truck. In 1961 they decided to make these. The company disappeared after that. Has anyone here seen another? Am I an orphan??

Hi,

Well, you certainly can have a rotsa party!

 I am not that experienced, but I would suggest before continuing with the skin removal, you build some wall and or ceiling supports. The skin is part of the support structure for these stick and tin trailers. When you take that away and the skirts and lower framing are weak from rot, you might have a possibility of collapse.  Maybe someone with more experience can chime in and confirm.

cheers,

Rod

Kendra, you've got your work cut out for you... As we all do.

Any supports will work; mainly to keep the body from collapsing into a heap. From the ground up is the way I do it. Maybe a 2 x 2 or? several. 2 x 4s work.

I am exactly where you are with my 66 Kit. It's a mess, lotsa rotsa. So far, no sagging so I'm relying on the frame and tire support. I pull the skins, look and replace what's easy. Then, do major framing. It's not rocket science, but common sense.

Good Morning and Thank You!

So, today's project will be shoring up the roof/ceiling. A trip to the lumber yard is in store! Yea! Greg, I was thinking tarps and bungee cords, but egads, what a pain in the rear. I'd love to get it completely under cover, has anyone used those metal garage type things? Heavy poles with a tin roof on top? If so, likes/dislikes? Anything to keep in mind if I decide to order one?

It's a great day to be alive!
Kendra

Maybe it is too early and I haven't had enough coffee, but what exactly do I square to? The trailer frame is level, side to side and front to back.
HELP VTT!

I put a level on the window cut out, and it's low 1.5 - 2 inches toward the rotten side. Then I put a level on the exterior side vertically and the entire shell is leaning toward that rotten side about 3/4 of an inch. Unfortunately, the ground I'm on is not level.

Shoring up the ceiling should be relatively "simple"...LOL But how do I account for the lean? I'd hate to begin replacing rotten wood only to discover later that the whole thing is catty-wampus because I didn't take the lean into consideration. And which do I do first? The lean to the left or the entire left corner sag?

I know this is a problem that has a solution, I just can't seem to figure it out on my own.

Again,
Thank you.

There are a few ways you can level the trailer, all of them require crawling underneath and supporting the frame with jack stands.

Is the trailer in the location you want it to remain while the repairs are being done? Since you are on bare earth, it would probably be easiest to make 4 level pads to set the jack stands on. At the minimum, you will need a shovel, a level, 4 automotive type jack stands, 4 pieces of 2x10 cut into 10" squares and a straight length of 2x4, 8' or so in length.

Here is what you do:

Locate the placement of the 4 pads centered directly below the two main underbody frame rails. I like the rear supports a foot or so in from the rear of the body and the front two just before where the frame rails start their bend to form the front A-frame. Determine which of the pad locations is the lowest. If there is sod, dig it out and pack the earth down enough that it won't settle. Next, using your level and straight edge, dig the other pads out to the same depth so all four pads are level. If needed, you can stack equal height blocks of wood at each pad location and span your straight edge across the tops of them to check for level. You need each individual pad level as well as the pads being level with each other.

Once you have four level pads, lay the 2x10's over them to support your jack stands. Determine how high you need to set the jack stands and set them all to the same height. Using the tongue jack, lower the front of the trailer down, which will raise the rear behind the tires, and place the two rear jack stands. Then raise the tongue jack and place the two front jack stands.