teacherman
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Post by teacherman on Jun 20, 2015 12:46:57 GMT -8
I'm working on my 1965 Ideal 16 foot. The person I bought it from did a partial gutting. Took out stove sink and toilet and some of the paneling. Also removed the light fixtures and plugins. Labeled with duct tape what went where. She bought it a few months before and didn't know how the electrical was.
I am far from an expert on electrical. I can replace plugins, switches and lights when I need to but that is about the extent of it. Should I put the fixtures and plugs back in and then plug it in to see if or what works? Or should I rewire the whole thing? From what I can see the wires look good with no cracking melting or wear. Would I be better off with a new fuse box first and then see what works? I'm at a place that I just don't know what I should do.
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Post by bigbill on Jun 20, 2015 14:50:06 GMT -8
The first thing to do is look at the wiring diagrams found on this web site and familiarize yourself with how things should be wired then if you feel comfortable with reusing some of existing items fine if not replace as needed. If you don't feel comfortable making these decisions or doing the work then you should hire a professional "trailer" electrician to assist you. I say trailer electrician because the ground system is different from a house and if not separated properly someone could get a serious shock or worse.
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teacherman
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Post by teacherman on Jun 20, 2015 18:59:53 GMT -8
How does one find a "trailer electrician"?
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ladywendolyn
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1964 Golden Falcon
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Post by ladywendolyn on Jun 20, 2015 21:17:36 GMT -8
Craigslist may have someone near you. If not your local RV place but they will charge a lot more.
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Post by vikx on Jun 20, 2015 21:59:29 GMT -8
Most of the time, the original wiring is OK. Since the PO labeled everything, an electrician should be able to help you out. It's not cheap. There should be a fuse box or breaker box in the trailer. If that is removed, you will definitely need pro help to reconnect.
The difference in trailer wiring is that they are wired as a subpanel would be: ground bar and neutral bar are always isolated in a trailer. Ground wire always goes to the frame, with a secure clean connection.
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Post by vintagebruce on Jun 21, 2015 5:47:22 GMT -8
vikx, if a person is doing a frame up rebuild on a camper the size of a Shasta Airflyte, what would you estimate the materials (no professional labor included)cost to be for a whole new system say, upgraded to 50 amps, with a separate A/C power source. Just a ball park figure.
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Post by vikx on Jun 21, 2015 22:25:39 GMT -8
For a 15/30 amp system, it's about $500, not counting light fixtures. I don't do 50 amp because they are way overkill for our trailers...
Partial breakdown:
1. Inlet; 15 amp with 14/2 extension cord: $75 30 amp, plus adapter and cord: $150+
2. Romex, 10, 12 and 14: $75
3. Breaker box, breakers, Ground lug and wire: $75
4. Outlets, switches, boxes, staples, covers, wingnuts, etc. $75
5. Bulbs, backer boards (to support boxes), misc. including glue and staples for backers: $75
6. Surprises: $50+ (and they are always there...)
Keep in mind that original wiring and boxes are often good and don't need to be replaced. The trailer may have a good breaker box as well. Rebuilding the lights isn't too spendy, maybe 10 bucks each. (new socket and switch) So a person could get by as cheap as $100 and have a safe system. Or... more.
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