forrester
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Post by forrester on Jun 3, 2015 20:32:33 GMT -8
Hey vintage trailer juggernauts, electrical has never made quick sense to me, so bear with my potentially deficient description of the problem. The trailer I am working on did not have working lights when I bought it, I didn't take too much time diagnosing it, and didn't even really see if the ground was very good. Currently I have replaced much of the framing, installed a new roof and resealed it. When I replaced some of the rotten "rafters" or ceiling/roof purlins some of the brake/running/turn signal wiring was run through the frame so I cut it. And I cut the wires that connected to signals on the front and rear skins. I can't really check and trouble shoot the wiring because a lot of it is cut. I can see where most of it should reconnect but now I think I'm realizing the color coordination is not consistent through the whole trailer (e.g. the front left and rear left wires are not the same color. Whats the best was to try and go about this? Is there a tool that would allow me to create a circuit between a hot wire connected to the harness (once a good ground is found) to potential candidate wires leading to lights? Again I have very little experience with electrical so ask questions if you're confused which I'm sure you are. Thanks, hopefully someone can lead me from being astray
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Post by vikx on Jun 3, 2015 22:06:21 GMT -8
Oh Boy, this is a BIG QUESTION with hours of discussion possible... I'll try to simplify a bit:
There are 3 electrical systems in a vintage trailer.
1. TOW WIRING is not as difficult as it seems.
a. There is a ground, often White. Easy to trace, as it will be connected to the frame somewhere. Most little trailers do not use a ground wire at the light, they use the skin instead. So, a screw thru the metal light back plate into the skin is the ground. b. Tail Lights and side Markers (TM) are usually all one color, Green is common, sometimes brown. For instance, say the TM wire is pink, then pink would run to both tails and all clearance lights. c. Each turn signal has one wire. Say Red for Left Turn, then Brown for Right Turn.
There's really only 3 hot wires to worry about: TM, RT and LT. Your trailer "might" use black for TM, but I can't tell where it is actually ending up. If it goes to each tail and the marker lights, probably it is TM
2. The 12 VOLT SYSTEM is the inside trailer lighting and other fixtures running off a battery. Again, white is often Ground. Hot wires can be any color as can the ground in a vintage trailer.
3. 110 ELECTRICAL: obviously for outlets and some lighting. Not really what you're talking about here.
I'm seeing multiple connections that seem to be inside the wall cavity. They need to be crimp connections. The little blue crunch things do not last and cause many failures. Wing nuts are never acceptable inside a wall... In one picture, you've got way too many wires to be tow wiring, so I think a PO must have run all the wiring in one clump.
It would be easiest if you rewire the entire trailer. Start with TM and run to each tail and marker. Many of us also run a ground to each light. (White) Then run a separate wire (different colors) to each tail. They are your brake lights and turn signals.
Junction boxes are really handy and make future wiring troubleshooting very easy. You might run the back tow wires into a J box at the back. Makes if very easy to connect existing (or run new) wires.
I hope this has helped you. PM me if you need more help or post here.
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Post by bigbill on Jun 4, 2015 5:14:52 GMT -8
Your brake lights and turn signals are the same wire on each tail light, run one color to the right side and a different color to the left side. when you are finished your tail, brake, and turn signals only require two wires on each light to make all three functions operate. I also like to run a ground wire to each light on a trailer to be certain that I have a trouble free system as a lot of light problems on a trailer is caused by a bad ground. Your lights will ground through the trailer skin but sometimes not. When it comes time for your 110 volt wiring I would suggest hiring a professional that understands trailer wiring as it is grounded different than residential wiring. If done wrong it can cause severe / fatal shocks to some one touching the trailer exterior.
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forrester
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Posts: 11
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Post by forrester on Jun 4, 2015 20:48:50 GMT -8
Wow! Thanks a lot for all that info, I think my mind has done a revolution of wrap-age. I have a question about the lights that are near the top of the trailer, on the front and rear. Do all these lights, 5 on both front and rear, behave the same? The previous wiring looks to me to be the same for all, where I thought the far left and right would be indicators. Are they just running lights or clearance lights like you said vikx? Leaving the only rear tail lights as indicators? Also is this connection to charge the on-board battery while towing? If so do either of you know what this connection is called?
It leads to two wires and one (positive?) continues to then be wired throughout the trailer for various lights, the stove fan and light etc. and then finally ending up connecting to the battery like you mentioned vikx. Should the 110 setup be able to charge the battery? I would have thought so but I don't see any connection for my trailer. I realize rewiring it all might end up being the best option but all the wiring is there and I really want to just understand the system first so maybe I can realize nothing is too gone and salvage most of or all of it. It sounds like it will be wise to replace some of the connections too. Thanks a ton for the help! I would be lost without it
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Post by vikx on Jun 4, 2015 22:41:11 GMT -8
The "object" on the tongue is an old Break Away safety switch for electric brakes. The Pin is missing, so it needs to be replaced. You're a ways from that yet. The top 5 lights front and rear are clearance lights. Not turn signals. They all connect to ONE WIRE, which is TM. Green in a 7 way connector. To charge your battery on the road, you need a 7 way receptacle on your vehicle and the trailer wired to the universal 7 way code. See this thread: vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/421/7-tow-wiringBe especially careful to ignore eTrailer's wiring diagrams as per the above! To charge the battery via 110, you will need a battery MAINTAINER (not a trickle charger) or an RV converter with a smart charge module. They are easy to wire into the trailer 12 volt system after the fuse block is in place. Get the TM wires sorted out first. Then go for the RT and LT. GROUND is the most important wire! Never underestimate the power of the Ground. We are here for you.
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Post by bigbill on Jun 6, 2015 17:21:19 GMT -8
You are getting some very good advice from vikx. The break away switch is required by law in most states to my knowledge but should be there and hooked up properly for you own safety.
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