windborn
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Post by windborn on Apr 29, 2015 10:30:21 GMT -8
Hi everyone. Apologies if this has been discussed before, but I've been searching and can't seem to find anything. I'm in the process of formulating a plan to begin restoring my canned ham. I've been reading and watching videos like a maniac and think I have a pretty firm grasp on the general idea of reframing & paneling the front, back, and ceiling. What I can't wrap my head around is how to do the sides.
I'll definitely need to replace the back passenger side panel (in the bed area) and the front driver side panel (in the dining area) all the way to the ceiling. Since I'm also doing all of the front, back, and ceilings, I may just re-panel the whole thing, but I'll make that decision when the skins come off.
I've seen a lot of complete rebuilds that are done in those wonderful, high-ceilinged garages out there. But does anyone have tips for those of us who are doing this in the driveway? And those of us who don't have beautiful California weather but only a few short months to do outdoor work? Should I just take all the skins off, reframe & panel the sides, replace the side skins, then do the back, top, and front as fast as I can and pray for no rain? (And keep tarps handy.) I've read that some of you work on the front of the trailer, finish it up, and then do that back. Does this only apply to trailers that don't need work on their side walls?
Also, is it necessary to remove the cabinets from the trailer to do all this? Can I just pry them off the existing paneling and leave them in place on the floor? I may only need to do this for the closet, and it's only the very back side of it. Though again, I'll know more when the skins come off.
Thanks in advance! Things may make more sense when I begin taking everything apart, but at the moment a lot of it is a mystery to me.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Apr 29, 2015 11:10:43 GMT -8
Everybody will have a different answer to “where is the best place to work”. I couldn't build a new garage with a high ceiling so I went the route below. It cost me about $1000 in materials.  The cheapest way to go is a giant tarp. Many people do it. Stopping when rain is coming can get old, but it works. Watch this series before doing any work. The videos were made by one of our members. www.cannedhamtrailers.com/57shasta.htmAll the panels are removed from the outside, working in. Cabinets stay in place unless they need work, or the floor needs work. Have fun with your project. |
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windborn
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Post by windborn on Apr 29, 2015 14:57:01 GMT -8
That's nice nccamper! Unfortunately my trailer is the closest thing I have to owning a home, so I won't be constructing anything anytime soon. I've been watching mobiltec's videos, though I'm admittedly just finishing up the Deville and have only skimmed through the Shasta. I haven't seen anything yet that shows how to go about replacing the panels in the center of the trailer (ie behind cabinets), though I'll refrain from asking anymore questions until I finish the series  |
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Post by vintagebruce on Apr 29, 2015 15:06:21 GMT -8
If you have 2 trees that are further apart than your camper is long, string a cable from one to the other and then put a sturdy tarp over it anchored with tent pegs and guide lines. Very basic, but will shed the rain.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 29, 2015 15:31:04 GMT -8
That's nice nccamper! Unfortunately my trailer is the closest thing I have to owning a home, so I won't be constructing anything anytime soon. I've been watching mobiltec's videos, though I'm admittedly just finishing up the Deville and have only skimmed through the Shasta. I haven't seen anything yet that shows how to go about replacing the panels in the center of the trailer (ie behind cabinets), though I'll refrain from asking anymore questions until I finish the series You're right. I don't have any videos showing replacement of the center wall panels. If you are going to do that you must remove the kitchen cabinet at the very least. I always do that anyhow because it's easier to rebuild and finish that cabinet outside of the trailer. While doing so if you want to replace the wall panels behind it you will also have to remove the upper cabinets and that requires removal of the roof metal and panels. The panels on the curb side are easier do to the lack of upper cabinets in most cases. You don't need to remove the floor to ceiling cabinet so just replace the paneling from there back to the rear of the camper. With the ceiling gone you canstand up the panels, trace the wall shape of the top on the back side, cut the panels and put them in place. Pretty much the same as you see me do with the front side panel in the 57 Shasta series. I'm a tarp king. I have used enough tarps over the years to afford a steel structure but my trailer park won't let me put one in. I'm surprised they let me do this at all to be honest. If you go watch my "Taking My Act On The Road" series you will see how I dodged weather like thunderstorms on a daily basis while doing a panel replacement job on a Forester in Steamboat Springs CO. It rained in the afternoons about half the time I was there. Put a 2x2 up through the top vent to turn the tarp into a tee pee shape for water run off when replacing one ceiling panel at a time. If you remove more than that at one time you will need temporary cross bracing to hold that pole up. You need to do that anyhow just to keep the walls from falling over. Hope that helps. |
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windborn
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Post by windborn on Apr 29, 2015 16:30:56 GMT -8
Thanks, mobiltec. That is very helpful. I'm glad to see I wasn't just doing a bad job on my homework I know you talk a lot about not taking too much apart so it doesn't get difficult to put it all back together again, and that's the thing that makes me most nervous about starting. Would it make sense to split the trailer into front and back (like you do in your videos), but include the middle section with the back? So the re-paneling & framing would go something like: back & middle sides, back, back roof, middle roof, front sides, front, front roof. I know I'll probably be figuring a lot of this out as I go along but I'm the kind of person that likes to have a map around for reference. The teepee tarp is a good trick. I'm also trying to figure out the best solution for something like you suggest, vintage bruce. A trailer tent |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 29, 2015 18:12:28 GMT -8
Thanks, mobiltec. That is very helpful. I'm glad to see I wasn't just doing a bad job on my homework I know you talk a lot about not taking too much apart so it doesn't get difficult to put it all back together again, and that's the thing that makes me most nervous about starting. Would it make sense to split the trailer into front and back (like you do in your videos), but include the middle section with the back? So the re-paneling & framing would go something like: back & middle sides, back, back roof, middle roof, front sides, front, front roof. I know I'll probably be figuring a lot of this out as I go along but I'm the kind of person that likes to have a map around for reference. The teepee tarp is a good trick. I'm also trying to figure out the best solution for something like you suggest, vintage bruce. A trailer tent Ya you can split it up that way. Just make darn sure you keep the trailer the proper width throughout the job so the top goes on with ease. I would start at the front and work back. Make your first stop just after the top vent. There is usually a seam close by there. button up the front and then take the rear apart so you can get the cabinets in and out. If the floor is in good shape you won't have to remove the tall floor to ceiling cabinet. Button up the rear last. That's how I'm doing my 59 Shasta. Dang I need to do something to that one. Haven't touched it in 9 months. |
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windborn
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Post by windborn on Apr 29, 2015 19:30:46 GMT -8
Thanks, mobiltec. I keep having "what did I get myself into?" moments and it's so helpful to have knowledgable people to talk me through them.
And 9 months? Doesn't that mean it's time to pop the baby out?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 29, 2015 20:33:51 GMT -8
Thanks, mobiltec. I keep having "what did I get myself into?" moments and it's so helpful to have knowledgable people to talk me through them. And 9 months? Doesn't that mean it's time to pop the baby out? LOL it's sitting next to the other two I am trying to finish right now. I got behind on that one because of my injured eye last July. I went blind in one eye while on vacation and that resulted in 6 months off. Now I'm playing catch up and still don't have two good eyes yet. Thank you VA... |
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windborn
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Post by windborn on Apr 30, 2015 4:03:47 GMT -8
Oh man, that's a shame. Hope you're starting to feel better now and glad this place gives you a way to live vicariously through our projects!
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kimberwarden
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Post by kimberwarden on May 11, 2015 12:02:47 GMT -8
I don't have a covered space to work in either, nor do I have any conveniently located trees to tie tarps to. My solution is to use large tarps attached to poles anchored in 5 gallon buckets of cement.
To construct them, I centered a 3' section of 3" PVC in a bucket and filled it with cement. That allows me to insert a 2 1/2" PVC pole that's tall enough to hold the tarp at whatever height I need, but still be able to dismantle the whole assembly for easy storage. The tall piece of PVC is capped and an eye bolt is installed at the top. Then I use caribiners to attach the tarp grommet to the eye bolt.
So far it's worked flawlessly and has withstood some major windstorms.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on May 11, 2015 12:28:41 GMT -8
I don't have a covered space to work in either, nor do I have any conveniently located trees to tie tarps to. My solution is to use large tarps attached to poles anchored in 5 gallon buckets of cement. To construct them, I centered a 3' section of 3" PVC in a bucket and filled it with cement. That allows me to insert a 2 1/2" PVC pole that's tall enough to hold the tarp at whatever height I need, but still be able to dismantle the whole assembly for easy storage. The tall piece of PVC is capped and an eye bolt is installed at the top. Then I use caribiners to attach the tarp grommet to the eye bolt. So far it's worked flawlessly and has withstood some major windstorms. That's pretty much what I do. I anchor one side to my mobile home and the other is supported by poles stuck into concrete bases like yours. Those bases are made for that game with a ball on a rope on a pole. I forget what it's called. I also use the full trailer tarp method mentioned earlier where I stick a pole up through the top vent for a tee pee affect. |
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windborn
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Post by windborn on May 11, 2015 13:36:46 GMT -8
I don't have a covered space to work in either, nor do I have any conveniently located trees to tie tarps to. My solution is to use large tarps attached to poles anchored in 5 gallon buckets of cement. To construct them, I centered a 3' section of 3" PVC in a bucket and filled it with cement. That allows me to insert a 2 1/2" PVC pole that's tall enough to hold the tarp at whatever height I need, but still be able to dismantle the whole assembly for easy storage. The tall piece of PVC is capped and an eye bolt is installed at the top. Then I use caribiners to attach the tarp grommet to the eye bolt. So far it's worked flawlessly and has withstood some major windstorms. What a great idea. Thanks! I'll probably copy you, mobiltec and use both methods. Don't want to get caught in a hurricane with my skins off this summer. |
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Post by vikx on May 11, 2015 21:55:09 GMT -8
Caught with my skins off:
The word is "NAKED" Windborn. LOL...
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kimberwarden
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Post by kimberwarden on May 12, 2015 6:38:51 GMT -8
The cement bucket idea is such a great one, I wish I had thought of it myself! But I picked it up from someone on one of the vintage trailer boards. I can't remember who or where, or I'd give credit. These boards have been INVALUABLE to me and I'm so grateful to all the wonderful people who share their experience and expertise so freely.
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