nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Apr 28, 2015 10:02:59 GMT -8
Before I commit to a painting plan I wanted to consider every option carefully. I got some great advice from other members.
And I just got off the phone with Sherwin Williams Auto Paint. Very nice people who took the time to answer questions.
Materials will cost you the following if you do SW auto paint yourself:
Etching primer-- $220 a gallon
Primer that goes over etching primer- $154 a gallon
1 gallon of single stage paint, with hardener and reducer-- $370
So $774, not including tax.
With perfect skin on a museum quality camper, or if you're rolling in money, it makes sense to go with auto paint. It is clearly the best of the best.
If you have a camper with a top value of $5000-$10,000 it doesn't really make sense to me. And if you plan on driving on the open road and backing into rough campsites, and every scratch would be like a punch in the stomach, a cheaper route may be in order.
Rusto and Ace are worth considering.
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Post by universalexports on Apr 28, 2015 18:47:53 GMT -8
good info, thats more than I would have thought for just the paint.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Apr 28, 2015 19:11:32 GMT -8
I thought I'd share a dollar amount. We talk a lot about options but I can’t remember anybody explaining how much the ideal way to go would cost. Basically, paint, prep supplies, etc, around $1000 if you own the gun and compressor.
It's a question of where to draw the line. You can't justify $1000 to paint old, beat up skin...Boom, $1700 for new skin...you can't use old jrail on new skin with expensive paint... Boom, $100 for jrail...and on and on.
As John Palmer has said, we have to pick the right camper to justify the cost of a top-notch rebuild. I don't want to put $10,000 into a camper I can sell for $7000. So where is the line on expenses that I shouldn't cross?
A tough one.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 28, 2015 19:45:02 GMT -8
I thought I'd share a dollar amount. We talk a lot about options but I can’t remember anybody explaining how much the ideal way to go would cost. Basically, paint, prep supplies, etc, around $1000 if you own the gun and compressor. It's a question of where to draw the line. You can't justify $1000 to paint old, beat up skin...Boom, $1700 for new skin...you can't use old jrail on new skin with expensive paint... Boom, $100 for jrail...and on and on. As John Palmer has said, we have to pick the right camper to justify the cost of a top-notch rebuild. I don't want to put $10,000 into a camper I can sell for $7000. So where is the line on expenses that I shouldn't cross? A tough one. Using todays cost factors, the cost for "parts and materials only" to fully rebuild a small trailer is "over $10K", and you can value your labor time how ever you choose. This is why my trailer's start at $15K and up, depending on size and amenities. Yet we continue to see trailers advertised as "Fully rebuilt/restored/refurbished/reconditioned, etc." for under $8K, go figure? A paint job is running at $800 to $1000 for materials only, plus most painters charge a $100/FT for labor to prep and spray. That adds up to about $3000 to paint a small trailer! My pin striper charges me $200 for the striping and painted on logos. It's just a matter of what floats your boat! You should not spend anything more than your comfortable spending on a project. It will be a different amount for each of us. But.....I will repeat, that it's important to choose the correct brand/year/size trailer that will return you investment. It's not any different in real estate, you do not want the biggest, nicest house on your street, from an appreciation, investment point of view.
After you do a couple of paint jobs, you will come to realize that the cost of materials is a relatively small amount, compared to the True Cost to do a nice paint job with graphics, lettering, pin striping, new trims, polishing the windows and eyebrows. You cannot do a paint job without addressing the rest, IMO.
Paint work, and polishing aluminum is DIRTY, and HARD WORK. It will cost you "your time", or "your money", and likely it will end up being BOTH!
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Apr 28, 2015 20:09:19 GMT -8
"...it's important to choose the correct brand/year/size trailer that will return you investment."
Painful words of wisdom.
My wife is the levelheaded one in the family. She asked if a Shasta Compact is worth a $3000 paint job, plus, plus, plus.
I just want to build something amazing and ignore the costs.
But to John's point, I wouldn't put a $100,000 kitchen in a $250,000 house.
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Post by vikx on Apr 28, 2015 22:48:56 GMT -8
Automotive paint is much tougher and MUCH MORE EXPENSIVE. I agree, with a Compact, not the way I would go unless you are wanting museum quality.
Our first paint was automotive and was well over $1000. We sprayed it ourselves. That paint is no longer available, but it is rock hard with a deep color.
Mostly, I use Rustoleum and it has done well for what it is. A mid 60s trailer is fine with it. Very easy touch up is a plus, most colors are available in spray cans or tiny pints.
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Post by vintagebruce on Apr 29, 2015 5:16:37 GMT -8
I'm in awe of some of the restored/rebuilt trailers that Members have shared with us! Obviously the perfect paint job goes a long way in eliciting that awe...a beautiful birch interior does nothing to diminish it either. In saying that, I am reminded of when I bought a very cheap '86 corvette that needed a paint job. By the time I had dropped $2700 on the "respray" a mundane Corvette style was transformed. I actually sat at lights and had people compliment me on my "pretty" car. Thing is, as I drove it on the interstate I became so attuned to every little rock and debris "ping" that I found myself not enjoying the drives because of the perceived damage to my expensive paint job. At that point I decided I did not need a car that had a paint job that caused me stress and sold it. I love to look at other Member's masterpieces. Personally, I will try the $50 paint job technique on the camper I plan to use (abuse) and enjoy taking anywhere I want to camp...may "invest" in a super nice job on the one(s) I plan to sell along. I'm probably going to try Tractor Paint on my first rebuild. Sorry to blaspheme.  |
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Apr 29, 2015 5:32:49 GMT -8
I'm in awe of some of the restored/rebuilt trailers that Members have shared with us! Obviously the perfect paint job goes a long way in eliciting that awe...a beautiful birch interior does nothing to diminish it either. In saying that, I am reminded of when I bought a very cheap '86 corvette that needed a paint job. By the time I had dropped $2700 on the "respray" a mundane Corvette style was transformed. I actually sat at lights and had people compliment me on my "pretty" car. Thing is, as I drove it on the interstate I became so attuned to every little rock and debris "ping" that I found myself not enjoying the drives because of the perceived damage to my expensive paint job. At that point I decided I did not need a car that had a paint job that caused me stress and sold it. I love to look at other Member's masterpieces. Personally, I will try the $50 paint job technique on the camper I plan to use (abuse) and enjoy taking anywhere I want to camp...may "invest" in a super nice job on the one(s) I plan to sell along. I'm probably going to try Tractor Paint on my first rebuild. Sorry to blaspheme. I had the same experience with a 1972 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible. The paint job was so beautiful I hated to leave it in a parking lot. One time somebody ran their key down the side, another time people threw their drinks inside...the poor car took a lot of abuse because it looked so good. It was too pretty to drive so I had to sell it. Sad. My wife brought up a good point last night, will be be giving "tours" 10 times a day instead of twice a day now with our Forester? Having said that, we're still going to make it as nice as possible. This will be my test case. If my new Tyler Wings get torn off at the first State Park, I'll learn my lesson fast. I want something wonderful but only if I can take it camping. |
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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Apr 29, 2015 12:41:24 GMT -8
Thing is, as I drove it on the interstate I became so attuned to every little rock and debris "ping" that I found myself not enjoying the drives because of the perceived damage to my expensive paint job. At that point I decided I did not need a car that had a paint job that caused me stress and sold it. I love to look at other Member's masterpieces. Personally, I will try the $50 paint job technique on the camper I plan to use (abuse) and enjoy taking anywhere I want to camp...may "invest" in a super nice job on the one(s) I plan to sell along. I'm probably going to try Tractor Paint on my first rebuild. Sorry to blaspheme. I know what you mean. And I plan on using my camper for camping. If I show up at a rally it's to meet the people and see their campers, not show off mine. With filled buckshot holes and dents, I don't really have to worry about ruining a perfect paint job. And we camp in some rather primitive areas. I had every intention of using the tractor paint, mixing my own colors with it, until I found the perfect rattle color and couldn't pass it up. |
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