benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 15, 2015 7:17:15 GMT -8
It would appear the PO used latex on the sides of the camper. What type of paint and I put over this and should it be gloss or semi-gloss?
Thanks!
Ben
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 15, 2015 7:41:55 GMT -8
The best thing to put over latex paint on the outside of a trailer, is paint remover!
If your lucky, it will not take more than two or three applications. |
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 15, 2015 7:49:40 GMT -8
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 15, 2015 8:37:01 GMT -8
There's lots of different kinds of removers, and they all work to some degree. IMO, the more environmentally friendly the remover is, the poorer it works. I have been using a Orange Citrus based remover lately.
One thing to remember when using any remover's, they only work when they are still wet. Always use them on the shady/cool side of the trailer, and cover the small area your working on with a thin plastic sheet, after you apply the remover to keep the active ingredients from evaporating. Do NOT use metallic scrapers, use only plastic/nylon scrapers to avoid scratching the skin. Use red 3M scuff pads to get the final remnants off, then follow their directions to the letter, on how to neutralize the surface before you start any sanding.
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 15, 2015 8:49:42 GMT -8
I'm assuming an oil base won't adhere to the latex? What about using latex again?
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 15, 2015 9:03:40 GMT -8
I'm assuming an oil base won't adhere to the latex? What about using latex again? Strip it.
Prime it.
Paint it, and use real paint intended for exterior use on aluminum.
It's a lot of work no matter how you do it, why take short cuts, that can and will compromise your final finish?
Do not confuse house hold latex paint, with water borne paint that is made for automotive use, it's not the same.
A simple single stage enamel paint, with the correct hardener, will last for years when applied over a properly prepared, and primed surface.
Good luck on your project.
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 15, 2015 9:08:46 GMT -8
I'm assuming that I should remove all exterior pieces to do the painting? J-rail, c-channel, windows?
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Apr 15, 2015 12:12:10 GMT -8
I'm assuming that I should remove all exterior pieces to do the painting? J-rail, c-channel, windows? Since you have no idea when it was last done, you are going to re-putty them anyway aren't you? |
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 15, 2015 12:28:16 GMT -8
I plan on doing the j rails and the c channel. I'm not sure how to do the windows though.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Apr 15, 2015 15:46:43 GMT -8
Ben, the windows are easy to take out. The best thing to do is to take all the trim off, windows out, strip it and start over. Before you do that, lift the skins at the bottom and check the skirting boards to make sure there is no rot. You may be surprised. If you had any leaks, like at the vent, where it is common, you could have rotten boards on the top, too.
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 15, 2015 16:21:05 GMT -8
So is this a case of ripping it down to the bones and then building back up? This is beginning to sound like my plan for three years into the future.
Susie if I find bad bones with rot do I use a vibrating cutter to take that bad portion out and Kreg in a new piece?
Ben
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Apr 15, 2015 17:08:34 GMT -8
It's not necessarily a case of ripping it down to the bones. You can check it and fix it in sections if you don't have massive rot. You can take out rotten boards and replace them which might not require cutting them out. Ben, I'm going to send you a link of another member's rebuild that probably looks like your trailer.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Apr 15, 2015 17:17:07 GMT -8
So is this a case of ripping it down to the bones and then building back up? This is beginning to sound like my plan for three years into the future. Susie if I find bad bones with rot do I use a vibrating cutter to take that bad portion out and Kreg in a new piece? Ben Repairing the framing may be just the case, you are going to have to discover that for yourself. A vibrating cutter and Kreg pocket hole jig is one way, there are others.Try getting by with the tools you already have before buying new, unless you see yourself doing more than one trailer. |
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Apr 15, 2015 18:56:18 GMT -8
Ben,
I agree with J.P. "safe stripper" does not work well. It seems like the "safe" stuff requires more applications to obtain good results. Most likely this results in more cost (and maybe environmental problems.) Sometimes the best way is to just use a heat gun and scraper to get rid of the bulk of it. Lots of elbow grease and not much $. Then you can use solvents, paint removers, and abrasives to get rid of the residue. Best advice is to take a long, deep breath and take a good look at what you have to work with before you actually start work on the trailer. Come up with a plan of attack and try not to become overwhelmed.
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 16, 2015 4:17:40 GMT -8
Susie, I look forward to that link!
I think my inexperience is what's got me rattled here. There are so many opinions and blogs on what to do and what not to do it's very difficult to determine the best approach.
Don't get me wrong, I had planned on rebuilding the camper from the ground of if necessary because I hate the interior paneling and I know that most of it is stapled to the frame, so the skins would have to come off.
Now, just to put on a coat of paint, not only do I have to remove all these exterior pieces but lift the skins for rot and without a garage that terrifies me. It's not about the tools or the woodworking. I can build and repair all types of stuff. I think a big part is about the time with the skins off if required, keeping the skins attached without the rails. I only see edge screws on mine.
A simple paint job just got very complicated and it has me rattled.
Ben
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