kc
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Post by kc on Mar 30, 2015 12:29:15 GMT -8
So our trailer is stripped to bare aluminum. 1959 Shasta.
The body is beat to **** because of a recent hailstorm, and not going to bother reskinning. So I need a cheap effective and longish lasting paint job that looks good on a battered old girl. Not only that, I am in surburbia doing this on the side of my house. Spraying her here is not really an option and would have to take to a friends house to get her done and he will charge me something.
With that said, first step is primer. Self Etching primer. So many brands, SEM, Sherwin Williams, Ace Hardware, Rustoleum.
Must you spray on primer or can you Roll/brush? Seen that roller bit then brush after to smooth it out and the brush strokes disappear...
Brand preferences out there?
Coverage expected? Since it is only one coat, I had one lady tell me 200 sq ft per quart!?
Pricing? I see everything from cheap $30/gallon to $300 gallon!
Thoughts out there? Maybe just prime it by spray and take her home and paint by roll/brush?
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kc
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Post by kc on Mar 30, 2015 13:16:59 GMT -8
Also, I hear self etching primer requires another primer coat over yop of it, otherwise the acid can come through the paint. True? Painters Supply says yes, Sherwin Williams said no. Argh!
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Post by bigbill on Mar 30, 2015 13:50:42 GMT -8
As far as ways to apply your paint, there are many and all will give a decent job if directions are followed. Here on the board you will find trailers that have been painted with everything from a brush to meg a buck spray equipment. One article tells how to do a good job with spray cans others with rollers. The most important thing is pick a paint brand and type then use the products as instructed, most will tell to what surface prep is needed and how to apply it. Pay attention to ambient air temperature and surface temperature, also humidity. Many paint selections are ruled by cost
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Post by bigbill on Mar 30, 2015 14:15:08 GMT -8
Paint choices are many times controlled by budget. On this site you will find people that had there trailer professionally painted and others that have been painted with rollers, brushes, and spray cans all with good results. The most important thing if you DIY is to use one manufactures products from start to finish. Follow the directions for what you are doing to the letter. They put directions on the product so that you can get the best results possible, then you will buy there product again. Pay attention to temperatures both ambient and surface. Don't rush do as directed. but most of all have fun doing it in a manor that you can proudly say a did it myself out in the yard. You will find that a professional paint job will cost from one to ten thousand dollars depending on your wants.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Mar 30, 2015 16:17:34 GMT -8
Everything bigbill says is spot on. I too am preparing for paint. I have a conventional spray gun set-up and will be going with a single stage urethane system. This is a step below a base coat/clear coat system. My paint supplier told me to etch the bare aluminum with 98% pure sulfuric acid. One of the small bottles here would be plenty for your trailer: www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=sulfuric&gclid=CPya9JKQ0cQCFcSCfgodMC0Apw Where old paint is well adhered to the aluminum no acid is necessary. Wipe it on with a rag, let it dry and you are ready for primer. You can scuff sand the aluminum with something like 320G wet dry sandpaper prior to applying the acid but not after. You do need to prime after pure acid etching, don't know about self etching primer. |
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Mar 30, 2015 16:43:10 GMT -8
One more thing; If I wasn't set up for spraying I'd be looking at marine paints formulated for a roll and tip application. This is a common application method in the marine world and may work for you at home.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 30, 2015 17:10:20 GMT -8
Self etching primer is an "old school" out of date method. Paint materials and products change frequently today due to air quality regulations.
Just wash it with soap and water to remove all grease and hand prints. Wipe it down with a cleaner degreaser supplied from your paint dealer. Only then scuff it with 320, and shoot it with a quart or two, of "two part" epoxy primer. The epoxy primer will serve as both a primer and a sealer for your top coat. A single stage top coat (also has a hardener and a reducer added) will work well. You have to scuff the epoxy primer for the single stage to mechanically adhere to the primer.
Follow the MDS (material data sheet) supplied by the paint dealer for best results. The paint manufacturer knows more about their products than any painter, so it only makes sense to read and follow their direction to the letter during application.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 30, 2015 17:21:26 GMT -8
One more thing...........you need to find a local automotive paint store, and stop by and tell them everything your doing, what your limitations are (no spray booth), and what's your budget. They are best able to make specific recommendations for paint products that are available in your area. I live in California, and not every paint product is available in every county in our state. A good knowledgeable paint store will be able to save you money, wasted labor, and help you get a great long lasting result.
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kc
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Post by kc on Mar 30, 2015 17:51:57 GMT -8
John - I see you on here and you always have intelligent replies with years of experience behind them. Most time I even listen to you!  I spoke with a guy at Sherwin Williams Auto Paint today who suggested an epoxy primer, basically $220 gallon with hardener and reducer. Auto paint person at Painters Supply said it will not adhere and self etching is the only way to go. $150/gallon. But that would require another coat of primer. Now you say it will work and I can use he epoxy. There is also a Rustoleum latex Aluminum primer and a Rustoleum Professional Oil Based Aluminum Primer which they claim can be painted on bare metal and top coated with their product. Both are MUCH LESS EXPENSIVE than self etch or epoxy. And which one, if any, can be rolled/brushed.... |
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 30, 2015 18:29:01 GMT -8
John - I see you on here and you always have intelligent replies with years of experience behind them. Most time I even listen to you! I spoke with a guy at Sherwin Williams Auto Paint today who suggested an epoxy primer, basically $220 gallon with hardener and reducer. Auto paint person at Painters Supply said it will not adhere and self etching is the only way to go. $150/gallon. But that would require another coat of primer. Now you say it will work and I can use he epoxy. There is also a Rustoleum latex Aluminum primer and a Rustoleum Professional Oil Based Aluminum Primer which they claim can be painted on bare metal and top coated with their product. Both are MUCH LESS EXPENSIVE than self etch or epoxy. And which one, if any, can be rolled/brushed.... I'm not a professional painter, but have been around the paint business for a long time. I have done a lot of insurance repair work, and dealt with paint and body shops to sublet out our paint work. When I need advice, and quality products, I contact my local professional paint dealer has to be one of the best in the nation for specialty applications(Fountain Valley Paint, Fountain Valley, CA) that deals in solving unique paint problems every day. They are the same supplier that supplies the paint to the Southern California filmed car shows you see on TV every weekend. The last aluminum skin I personally painted, was the new "Baby Puke Green" graphics on my Mallard. It had brand new "pre polished, and clear coated" skin from Hemet Valley RV. My paint dealer told me to tape off my graphics, sand with 320, shoot the metal with two part epoxy, sand the primer with 320, then shoot the graphics with the single stage. All of this was done in my driveway, under a large shade tree. I stepped up, and hired a good pin striper to come by, and hand paint the yellow pin strip and hand lettering. The result is, this trailer sits outside in the sun 365 days a year, and it still looks like new.
When you consider the large amount of your labor time required for a paint job, the high cost of even the cheapest materials, and how mad you would be if it failed/pealed/faded in a short time, it only makes sense to do the due diligence, and try to do the best job your budget will allow.
Best to you in your search.
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Post by schweetcruisers on Mar 30, 2015 19:27:49 GMT -8
Kevin, I hate to contradict you...again, but I shot my Shasta with Epoxy Primer and have/had no issues. I've talked to; and bought some stuff at Painters Supply(Hampden and Santa Fe), I've always been less then impressed, still pissed they talked me out of POR-15 to use their cheaper alternative that didn't bond well. But then I found Choice Paint Supply, who sells DuPoint and Nason Single Stage Paints. They were pretty helpful so I'd highly recommend you check them out!
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Apr 6, 2015 16:33:09 GMT -8
Everything bigbill says is spot on. I too am preparing for paint. I have a conventional spray gun set-up and will be going with a single stage urethane system. This is a step below a base coat/clear coat system. My paint supplier told me to etch the bare aluminum with 98% pure sulfuric acid. One of the small bottles here would be plenty for your trailer: www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=sulfuric&gclid=CPya9JKQ0cQCFcSCfgodMC0Apw Where old paint is well adhered to the aluminum no acid is necessary. Wipe it on with a rag, let it dry and you are ready for primer. You can scuff sand the aluminum with something like 320G wet dry sandpaper prior to applying the acid but not after. You do need to prime after pure acid etching, don't know about self etching primer. While picking up some paint supplies today it dawned on me that I left out a couple steps in my post quoted above. Surprised John Palmer didn't catch it. If etching with acid, it must be thoroughly rinsed afterwards. The acid only needs to sit on the metal for about 5-minutes. Of course, wear rubber gloves and a proper respirator. |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 29, 2015 15:50:38 GMT -8
I have seen John's paint up close and it's good enough for my standards which are pretty dang high if you have seen my finished trailers. John's methods are the same exact methods used by my painter whom John happens to know also and his jobs come out very nice indeed. I have decided to give painting my own trailers a shot being that I just like to do everything myself. That way I have no one else to blame when things go wrong and I don't have to wait in line for a year for my painter.
I'm going with John's advice 100%...
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Post by 62shastacrazymom on Jun 5, 2015 22:23:57 GMT -8
I have seen John's paint up close and it's good enough for my standards which are pretty dang high if you have seen my finished trailers. John's methods are the same exact methods used by my painter whom John happens to know also and his jobs come out very nice indeed. I have decided to give painting my own trailers a shot being that I just like to do everything myself. That way I have no one else to blame when things go wrong and I don't have to wait in line for a year for my painter. I'm going with John's advice 100%... Can I get a contact number and I can tow mine from Paso Robles? Is he down by you? I don't mind doing the prep, but the rest makes me really nervous.....
Ill take you to the trailer prom, Larry  Ha!
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Post by vintagebruce on Jun 6, 2015 5:49:15 GMT -8
There is always at least one Lemming that is going to run away from the sea. I'm going to be that Lemming on this thread. Thinking about KC saying the camper was dinged up pretty good in a hailstorm and re-skinning has been ruled out, leads me to believe a "professional" grade finish on the outside of the camper is not a MUST, unless it is painted to resemble a vintage Titlist golf ball.
If anyone is curious, that is not already aware of it, simply do a search for... vintage camper $50 paint job ...there were at least three youtube videos and one how to that appeared on the first page of results. I believe the method involves foam rollers or brushes as applicators in some cases. Invest 30 minutes or less in watching and reading. Might be an alternative that leaves most of your money in your pocket to spend on the inside of your camper.
And if you still can't spot which Lemming I am, I'll be the one running against the grain with a clean but not fancy coat.
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I spoke with a guy at Sherwin Williams Auto Paint today who suggested an epoxy primer, basically $220 gallon with hardener and reducer. Auto paint person at Painters Supply said it will not adhere and self etching is the only way to go. $150/gallon. But that would require another coat of primer. Now you say it will work and I can use he epoxy.
Ha!