Looking for WIRING info

Hi and Welcome Norm!

I will answer what I can. I'm assuming your Glendale is not a true "park" model, but rather an extra large travel trailer with holding tanks and RV bathroom fixtures. Park models tend to have 110 lighting, *real* bathrooms and appliances are not usually 12 volt. Correct me if I am wrong on your trailer. A battery system is another clue that points to an RV. Glendale made both types and possibly a combination of the two.

A park model furnace normally runs on 110. (it's a difference of which motor is installed for the blower) Suburban makes two models, one has a 12 volt motor, the other 110. The 12 volt motor tends to wear quicker than the 110, but otherwise the two models are very similar. When running the furnace, it does take a lot of power, either directly from the battery bank or thru the inverter. I recommend a more passive heater like a Wave; the operate without power. Even a safely installed wood stove would be very nice.

You should be able to tell what the lights are by reading the bulb. It's very unlikely that a trailer would come from the factory with incandescent style 12 volt bulbs. (look like a normal everyday bulb you might use in your house) I'm guessing the lights are 110. Our vintage trailers have both 110 lights and a 12 volt light or two, so it's possible Glendale had both as well.

If you connect your batteries in parallel, the voltage remains at 12 volts. Be sure to use extra heavy battery cables to support increased amp hours.

Hope this helps. I'll also move this to the electrical section for you.

No worries about "where" you post, Norm. That's part of my job, keeping things organized...

Sounds like your trailer is a Park model. The lack of holding tanks is one clue. Also, if the toilet has a tank on the back (as in a house) it was never used as an RV. Many of these types of trailers were built so that they could be either/or, tho I can NOT imagine trying to set up the tip outs very often! Refrigerators are usually 110 only in park models.

I'm guessing you have a converter rather than an inverter. (1986) The missing battery would have been back up if shore power failed. Works like a charm, the only way to tell the power is off is if the TV goes out. LOL. Inverters really weren't popular until the 90s and very expensive back in the day. One thing about converters is that they will overcharge your battery(s) on shore power. Since you will be off grid, that shouldn't be a concern. Solar panels may be a very good addition to keep your battery bank in tip top condition.

The system works like this:

The main power panel was usually a combo 110/12 volt/converter. One side supplied 110 power via a breaker box, the other 12 volts. The converter portion automatically uses shore power if available, then battery power when the trailer has no 110 supply. In other words, the converter uses or "converts" 110 to 12 volts when power is available and charges the battery. With the power off, the battery supplies power to all 12 volt units, 110 fixtures will not operate.

With a converter, your 110 system will only work when the generators are on.

If the trailer was upgraded to an inverter, 110 items will operate off the battery bank. With the large bank you are planning on, they should supply adequate power if used judiciously. There's not a lot of difference in electrical operation with an inverter, the exception being that your 110 system will work off grid. Anything with a 110 heating element or motor will drain the batteries. (appliances, fans, furnace motor, etc)

Almost all later model trailers have a built in 110 system, supplying some lights and electrical outlets, as well as a separate 12 volt system. Again, just guessing, but I'm thinking the furnace has a 12 volt motor so that it could operate when off grid.

Many modern RVs have only 12 volt lighting. The bulbs are an easy way to tell: they are much smaller than incandescent, and do not "screw" in.

To test the light fixtures, put a new 110 bulb in the socket. If it works, it's 110. And you're right, the ceiling fan is almost surely 110...

Please keep us informed. Your journey sounds fun and interesting.

Thanks for the info Norm.

If the toilet is an RV toilet, it will need a tank of some sort as they don't have enough water to flush a sewer hose. The tank is used until 3/4 full, then emptied, which thoroughly flushes things. If there is a grey water tank, that also cleans the hose. (we know there's no tanks on your trailer) I wonder if the toilet has it's own tank? Possibly just below the body?

Modern converters usually have "smart" chargers, so they are not detrimental to batteries. Take a look at what you have (guessing Magnitek or WFCO) and it may be possible to switch it out to a Progressive Dynamics unit which has the smart capability. Also, your intelligent chargers are fine. Just bypass the old charging system.

Good on ya for the propane appliances!

Very excited to see how all this comes together. Hope you have internet out in the sticks... Take some pics when you can.

Open the toilet flap and peer down with a flash light. You should be able to see the tank or daylight. (assuming the cap on the outlet is off) Also, if there's water, it is a tank. You could jump around a little to make it more visible.

Another way to tell is to look at the outlets. There should be a 3" valve with a pull handle for the black tank. Also, if there's a grey tank, there will be a 1 1/2 valve (or 2") It tees into the 3" line just before the outlet. Look for black pipes, caps, that sort of thing. They will be hanging under the belly... (might be white but I doubt that)

Here's a pretty good blurb showing photos of the pipes and valves, plus good info:

www.rvdoctor.com/2001/01/recreation-vehicle-waste-management.html

On the converter, you can still use the original "box", with the 110 panel and fuse block. It's pretty easy to bypass the original guts and use the progressive, a matter of wiring. Depending on the box, you may be able to remove said guts and the Progressive will slip right in. Yeah.