desertrat
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Post by desertrat on Feb 9, 2015 15:27:24 GMT -8
I know that these trailers have both 110v and 12v systems. However, I'm wondering what I would need a 110v system for. LED lights have come a really long way and can put out a lot of light with very little power consumption. You can get 12v vent fans. Our most used electronics can all be charged off of USB. We're not looking to put a TV or AC in the trailer. Considering that we don't have any of the 110 fixtures in the trailer as it is, and that I can put switches/lights/USB outlets where I see fit... is there anything I'm missing that would make me think I needed to be set up for 110?
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txoil
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1960 Shasta Deluxe 19
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Post by txoil on Feb 9, 2015 16:36:40 GMT -8
It's entirely your call, but tailor the electric system to YOUR intended usage. We were going to do a 110/12V with inverter, but in the end we went 110 for all internal electrics, with battery LED remote control lights. We have a Yamaha 2000 watt quiet generator with a tri-fuel carb setup and have twin 30 LB propane tanks, so we can boondock with full electric power for weeks at a time.
When designing your trailer do not forget an electric pump for your water system.
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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Feb 9, 2015 17:02:59 GMT -8
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Feb 9, 2015 18:33:01 GMT -8
It's easy to do both systems while the trailer is apart. It's really hard to add a 110V system after it's all buttoned back up. It's much nicer to have all the wiring inside the walls. You will likely sell your trailer some day, and having only one system will limit your potential buyers. It's hard to run a coffee pot, and make popcorn in the micro wave if you just have a 12V system.
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Post by vikx on Feb 9, 2015 23:31:44 GMT -8
I agree with John. Never limit the options. Leave the existing 110 in place and add 12 volt lighting and fixtures. It's easy and doesn't require fancy electronics. I love the vintage attitude on power options...
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Feb 10, 2015 8:06:18 GMT -8
I agree with John. Never limit the options. Leave the existing 110 in place and add 12 volt lighting and fixtures. It's easy and doesn't require fancy electronics. I love the vintage attitude on power options... Vikx, I guess the other reason I'm on the 110V kick right now, is because I'm collecting parts for my 1948 Spartan for the future rebuild. It has some really cool "Art Deco style", Bakelite wall sconce lights. I have been out looking for small 4" light shades, that don't look modern. I have found some "on line", but they are all expensive. You just can't have modern looking shades, on Bakelite lights, in a very old trailer. It needs to stay with the vintage theme.
We use our vintage trailer's, desire to have the comfort amenities, but go out of our way to "build in", or "hide" the modern items. For example the microwave on the 1958 Mallard, "was hard wired" and "hidden" inside the closet. It's all about having a vision of what you want when it's finished, then build in that direction. You don't want to end up with a trailer that has had a hundred things "added to it" as an afterthought.
Just my opinion.
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desertrat
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Post by desertrat on Feb 10, 2015 8:37:55 GMT -8
What existing 110? That's the scale of rebuild I'm dealing with...
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desertrat
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Post by desertrat on Feb 10, 2015 10:28:22 GMT -8
I actually have a good friend who is an electrician, so if I do wire up 110 I've got help with that. This camper, though, is going to need plenty of help and I have nothing to go off of other than what I'm seeing online. For example, where is the inlet for shore power supposed to be? Is it the hole under the dinette window? These wires were cut for some reason here, there's no light fixtures. Where does the breaker box go? Little things like that which aren't there  It's part of the reason I'm considering 12v only. |
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Post by vikx on Feb 10, 2015 11:17:20 GMT -8
Donna is a Deluxe, right? Had the little shower across from the door? None the less: Original 110 system included a light over the sink, a light over the table (underside of upper cabinet) and a light in the bed area. In my 57, the outlets were on the light fixtures, not very useful. I usually keep the original wiring and fixtures as "Circuit #1" and add from there. 2nd circuit runs extra outlets and a 3rd dedicated for certain appliances. There was a non-original converter in the sink/oven cabinet, near the floor. I'm guessing the breaker box was in that area. The inlet was below the kitchen window:  Note the water fill under the dinette window. Probably the "hole" you mentioned. I did a lot of 12 volt wiring on the Deluxe; wired for the Fan, ceiling lights, pump, cigar plug and more. When wiring, I install J boxes any place that might benefit from 12 volt power. Wires are there and ready if a person wanted to add 12 volt items. To sum up, our trailers started out with 110 only, until the mid 50s. A ceiling light was then added, which was powered when the vehicle parking lights were on. Onboard batteries were seen as early as 57, but they were small and powered one light. (battery usually in an upper cupboard) By 1964, some trailers (Aladdin, Shasta, Aristocrat and more) had an actual 12 volt system with a larger battery. Higher end trailers were experimenting with converters, such as the Airstream Univolt. (a failure, makes a great tire block) Lots more photos of the Deluxe here: 57shastadeluxe.shutterfly.com/ Click on Pictures and Videos to view the albums. "Systems" shows electrical, plumbing, etc. |
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desertrat
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Post by desertrat on Feb 10, 2015 11:40:25 GMT -8
It's actually an Airflyte, but that's close to what I'm seeing. So I'm guessing that means the water tank goes under the streetside dinette. The breaker box being under the sink makes sense if the shore power inlet is there. Where did your sink drain to? Ours had a plastic tube running down through the wheel well.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Feb 10, 2015 11:50:13 GMT -8
 Airflyte: Water fill (and tank) forward, beneath the streetside bench. Electrical inlet and box also under the bench. Stove cupboard is next to the bench. |
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Feb 10, 2015 11:59:24 GMT -8
Kitchenette:  |
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Feb 10, 2015 12:01:47 GMT -8
Sink outlet is the lower one. Over the top of it is the vent. Not sure if I have a photo of the under-cabinet. Electric inlet is forwar in the photo.  |
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desertrat
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Post by desertrat on Feb 10, 2015 12:28:38 GMT -8
OK, that makes some more sense; matches up with what I've seen on this.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Feb 10, 2015 13:11:51 GMT -8
I know this is off the electrical subject a bit, but this is the undersink (trap removed):  And this is the part I found for the outside. It is a flat adapter, which connects with just a slip-joint nut. The hose is just a plain-end hose, and would have drained to the ground. (Remember that life was a little different in 1964 than it is now, draining to the ground was acceptable then. Also remember that the Airflyte had only gray waster to drain.  Back to the electrical... The camper had a light in the rear corner over the bunk:  One over the sink counter: And one over the dinette:  The light fixtures all have the outlet fitting. I don't believe there was a separate outlet anywhere in the trailer besides these. To wire it back to the "original" layout is fairly minimal. I am planning to replace the breaker box and install a 30-amp service with a couple additional outlets. |
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It's part of the reason I'm considering 12v only.
