man314
Active Member
Posts: 179 
Likes: 59
1964 Shasta 16-SC
Currently Offline
|
Post by man314 on Jan 31, 2015 14:45:00 GMT -8
Working on roof today so I can get to replacing ceiling panel over vent . . . This is the panel that molbiltec call the key panel. i had always thought that I could keep the roof skin. Was planning to roll it like I've seen on videos or suspend it, do repairs, then set it back down. Upon closer inspection of the roof, I found a 2" cut over the door, dimpling in the top (looks like hail damage), and the PO had smeared gobs of silicone to seal a leak around the toilet vent stack and a 1/2 " hole that was drilled front and center over the window. Im now debating just replacing top skin. I also have to replace both curb side pieces and back skin. Thinking of going with Helmet Valley RV - Could I patch slit and hole with JB weld and be fine?
- If anyone has replaced a roof on a 16 ft trailer, what ballpark cost would the aluminum for roof?
- Current roof has S locks to connect several pieces . . . Could the new roof be one continuous piece?
- I'm having it professionally prepped and painted. Is it possible that the new skin cost would be partially offset by reduced prep time due to paint and silicone buildup?
- Any downside to going with new skins vs old (other than cost)?
- What would you experienced guys do?
 |
|
|
|
Post by schweetcruisers on Jan 31, 2015 14:57:30 GMT -8
I replaced my roof with a one piece roof on my 16' Shasta. And plan on doing it again on the Kenskill. I think the cost was under $300, I did not use Hemet Valley, I have a local rv skin source!
|
|
SusieQ
Global Moderator 
Posts: 4,781 
Likes: 1,197
'62 Shasta Compact
Currently Offline
|
Post by SusieQ on Jan 31, 2015 14:59:30 GMT -8
First of all, if you're replacing the curbside and back piece of skin, consider replacing all of them, including roof. Check with your supplier (Hemet Valley) and see what their set up cost and shipping is because it might be worth it to order it all at once and have brand new skins.
Secondly, no, you cannot repair splits with JB Weld. It actually works well to fill small holes, 1/4" or less but it will not hold a tear.
|
|
|
|
Post by schweetcruisers on Jan 31, 2015 15:01:02 GMT -8
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,825
Likes: 3,752
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Feb 1, 2015 18:22:07 GMT -8
All I can say is I stick with what I know and it's better/easier to replace than to repair when it comes to metal skin. Roof, sides or back. If you go new, cut the pipe off to where it will only stick up two inches above the top of the metal skin. Then use a regular vent cover that is made for trailers and not a jack. I haven't tried a solid truck trailer type skin for the top. Don't know that I ever will. I'd have to see one after it has a few thousand miles of travel and after it's gone through a winter or two. I would also like to see it go through a couple of hot summers like we have here. 110f is not uncommon during the summer here.  |
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,638
Likes: 579
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Feb 1, 2015 20:35:20 GMT -8
All I can say is I stick with what I know and it's better/easier to replace than to repair when it comes to metal skin. Roof, sides or back. If you go new, cut the pipe off to where it will only stick up two inches above the top of the metal skin. Then use a regular vent cover that is made for trailers and not a jack. I haven't tried a solid truck trailer type skin for the top. Don't know that I ever will. I'd have to see one after it has a few thousand miles of travel and after it's gone through a winter or two. I would also like to see it go through a couple of hot summers like we have here. 110f is not uncommon during the summer here. Larry, the "solid truck trailer metal" is "made for semi trailer roofs" that are used in commercial transportation. They live a miserable life in "normal use", and they hold up without any problems until a trailer hits a tree, or they run into a building. They measure .040", or about 25% thicker than the roofs we both normally use from Hemet. They cut/trim easily, and since they are made of a soft aluminum hardness they bend just the same as the normal .030-032"" metal. I find no difference in how they staple, with my cheap HF staplers.
I've done two tear drops, and I have one on a 1953 Aljoa that sits outside 24/7, 365 days a year (now five years old), unprotected in the sun, and it has held up well. Frankly it has help up better for me, than the "pre-polished, and coated" siding that Hemet sells. The clear coating on the pre-polished is easily damaged by bird droppings.
The only down side I can see, is that you have to have access to an eight foot brake to bend a Pittsburgh Seam's ("S" Locks) on each end, and due to the length, even if you had a wide enough brake, you would need two or three men to flip the metal over for the seams, and stand a very good chance for scratches. It's also been my experience that the parts guys do a very good job of denting it up just rolling it off their roll and cutting it, so the "shrinkage" damage is high. It's a viable option for some applications, but it's just easier (also more expensive) to buy a custom length roof skin that already has the end seams to your specifications.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,825
Likes: 3,752
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Feb 2, 2015 8:25:04 GMT -8
It's probably heavier also. I think I'll stick with what i know. These things are enough work already. I don't need the extra hassle of trying to make locks on the ends, keeping the metal protected and the extra weight. Just making the seam locks alone sounds like a HUGE hassle. What percentage of the total trailer cost are we saving here in the long run? That's a question that one must ponder in making a decision like this. Is it worth it?
|
|
goshawks
Active Member
working on the trotwood when not camping
Posts: 182
Likes: 56
Currently Offline
|
Post by goshawks on Feb 2, 2015 8:47:39 GMT -8
Do you have to use a 's' bending tool to attach roof to side? In my untrained mind , I would think you would bend the top edge over the siding , then attach the j-trim for a finished attachment. I like the idea of a one piece roof as it would be seamless hence dripless. BTW if you used the tool you talked about why did you nail it afterwards?
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,825
Likes: 3,752
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Feb 2, 2015 9:42:03 GMT -8
Do you have to use a 's' bending tool to attach roof to side? In my untrained mind , I would think you would bend the top edge over the siding , then attach the j-trim for a finished attachment. I like the idea of a one piece roof as it would be seamless hence dripless. BTW if you used the tool you talked about why did you nail it afterwards? We are talking about front and rear locks. Of course on most of these old trailers the roof bends over the sides along with the front and rear walls. Although some older Shastas switched over to corner cap on the front and rear walls. So far I have not found a seamed together old roof that has leaked at the seams. They all end up leaking at the edgeboard and at the holes such as roof vents and plumbing pipes and refrigerator vents. I have also seen leaks from tree branch rips and a few from hail damage. That doesn't mean there have not been leaks on trailers from the seams. I just haven't seen them leak there yet. John Palmer has done much more work than I have on vintage trailers. All I have done is put what little knowledge I possess on video so others can learn before they dive in and start gutting trailers. Again I've not gone the truck trailer seamless route and really have no intentions of doing so. |
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,638
Likes: 579
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Feb 2, 2015 9:43:57 GMT -8
Do you have to use a 's' bending tool to attach roof to side? In my untrained mind , I would think you would bend the top edge over the siding , then attach the j-trim for a finished attachment. I like the idea of a one piece roof as it would be seamless hence dripless. BTW if you used the tool you talked about why did you nail it afterwards? The sheet metal brake allows you to bend the seams (called Pittsburgh Seams in the sheet metal industry, or "S" locks in the RV industry) at the two "ends" of the roof panel. This allows you to attach the front and rear lower panels for a dry seal.
You still just bend over, and attach the roof at the wall edges normally. It can be nailed, stapled, screwed, what ever, then the edge is covered by the edge trim, "J" rail, or some call it Rain Rail.
As far as the advantage of using "one piece" of aluminum, over the "factory assembled" roofs is not any difference, IMO. The factory assembled roofs have "smooth rolled flat" seams, have a urethane type seal. They are very nice, well constructed, and I would not have a worry about their life span.
|
|
