swirlygirls
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Post by swirlygirls on Jan 17, 2015 5:23:23 GMT -8
Dottie, my 1960 Oasis, is slowly coming together. Most recently I just finished the cargo door but I see daylight. I couldn't really get a photo but when I stand at the front of the trailer and look back at the cargo door I can see space between the gasket and the metal that's screwed into the trailer. It fits tightly over the screws in the trim but not over the space in between the screws if that makes sense. This door has been a pain in the you know what all along. We've rebuilt it and are using the old gasket but this is an invitation for Niagara Falls to enter the storage area. Anyone else have this problem and what did you do?
Thanks so much for your help and please forgive me if this has been written about already and I missed it.
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Post by vikx on Jan 17, 2015 22:15:29 GMT -8
Hi Swirlygirls, lovely dogs!
When the metal on a trailer has a pattern, it is necessary to "double putty" the low areas. If your cargo door has a backframe rubber gasket, I use butyl called Tacky Tape. (1/16 thick by 1/2 wide) The tacky tape makes a much better seal than rubber alone. Before installation, cut strips for the dips in the metal. Voila! No more gaps...
Note: If the cargo door has a metal flange, normal RV putty is fine.
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swirlygirls
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Post by swirlygirls on Jan 18, 2015 5:16:25 GMT -8
The cargo door has a metal frame and I did double putty the low areas. (I read your book!) There is no daylight between the frame and the trailer metal. That's nice and tight. It's the actual door that opens and closes that has the rubber gasket and when you close and lock the door the gasket should press tightly against the metal frame. I don't know if that gasket is old and tired (like me) but it doesn't provide enough of a seal. That's where I can see daylight even when the door is locked. Any ideas?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 18, 2015 20:45:25 GMT -8
Does your door open UP or Sideways or Down? Is the door slid into a hinge that looks just like the push out windows? If it's a slide out door then remove the door by sliding it out of the hinge. Just like rebuilding a push out window. You have to open up one end carefully because it will have to bend back over and close one more time. Don't want to tear the metal stop off.
Remove the frame, straighten it out if need be, remove and replace the gasket with Backframe Gasket material just like what goes on the Push Out windows. Then reinstall everything. You may have to adjust the closing mechanism so it will close tightly but with new gasket material it should be fine without having to do that.
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Post by vikx on Jan 18, 2015 22:33:19 GMT -8
It almost sounds like the door itself is tweaked or sprung. I've been able to bend them back as Mobile suggests. They are never perfect. If the backframe gasket won't fit, you could use a nice weather seal as well.
Try to get us a picture.
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swirlygirls
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Post by swirlygirls on Jan 19, 2015 5:48:44 GMT -8
Thanks for your comments. It opens up and I believe it slides into a hinge. I've never dealt with a back frame gasket, is that a Vintage Trailer Supply item or is it widely available?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 19, 2015 7:44:32 GMT -8
Thanks for your comments. It opens up and I believe it slides into a hinge. I've never dealt with a back frame gasket, is that a Vintage Trailer Supply item or is it widely available? Yes you can buy the gasket material from VTS and if you go watch my window rebuilding videos it shows how to replace it. Just use the same technique on the door frame because they are exactly alike... Hope that helps. |
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swirlygirls
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Post by swirlygirls on Jan 19, 2015 8:05:59 GMT -8
Thank you mobiltec. You're wonderful.
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