Post by annbclay on Jan 13, 2015 20:15:28 GMT -8
My Compact has the original breaker box (in the closet), original wiring and 2 original under cabinet lights. One light is under the kitchen cabinet & one is under the narrow, back shelf centered over the table. The previous owner installed a new ceiling vent fan that hooks directly to a deep cycle gel battery kept in the upper storage compartment on the door side, the vent wiring hooks directly to the battery terminals. She also ran an outdoor extension cord with a 4 receptacle outlet from outside at the hitch to inside the kitchen for plugging in the fridge. Here is what I would like to end up with ...
1) Keep the original kitchen light where it is. Move the back, under cabinet light, placing it above one bed/bench. Then tap into the moved light wiring and add an additional light over the other bed. I would update these back lights to modern, low watt lights for night time reading. I REALLY, REALLY don't wish to remove the camper skin and rewire my entire camper if this plan will work and the lights will be safely wired. Of course I will add proper junction boxes.
2)in the kitchen I would like to remove the extension cord set up and run wiring for a dorm fridge receptacle and a microwave receptacle as well as an additional receptacle for charging electronics, etc. I noticed that the original kitchen light fixture has a plug in it, but I would be uncomfortable using it. I plan to take much, if not all of the current kitchen framing out and reconfigure the kitchen. (I hear the GASP of you purists out there, sorry, practicality is gonna win this time.) I would GREATLY prefer to channel the new wiring from the closet to the kitchen area using conduit placed ABOVE the birch siding and not beneath it. All new wiring would be hidden in the closet and behind the new kitchen eliminating the need to remove birch or camper skin.
3) the birch ceiling around the vent fan has become water damaged, it could be that I left the vent cracked and rain leaked in, or it could be the vent needs to be re sealed. To be on the safe side I plan to remove the vent, reseal and reinforce it. At that time I would like to move the battery placement.
My my idea here is to cut the damaged birch ceiling out in a section running from the vent to the closet wall. This way I could run wire from the vent into the closet and down to a location holding the battery either in the closet or outside in a box on the trailer tongue.
4) I recently had the brakes retooled, properly wired and the correct plug put on to allow for connection to the brake controller and 12 volt recharge. There is, however, no wiring in the camper from the battery to this plug. So I would like to set that up and I have no idea how to do that.
5)Here's the really big questions...
a) I would also like to be able to switch at LEAST the lights over to run off the battery when I'm at a site with no hook ups.
b) It'd be icing on the cake if I could also have the extra receptacle on the battery when needed and
c) the cherry on the cake if the fridge & microwave receptacles could be available. My guess, however, is use of even one of the appliances would drain the battery too fast.
6) Oh and just to be really spoiled, It'd be great to use the solar panel I was given. I'd like to be able to set it out when weather permitted to maintain a charge on the battery.
Regarding my skill level: I installed the wiring in my pottery studio including wiring for kilns so I have some understanding of electrical. However I've never worked with 12 volt or 110 and I want to get multiple sources of info and feedback. Anything I'm not completely sure of I would have an electrician do and/or check my work. Which leads me to ask...
for advice, feedback and recommendations. I also want you vintage trailer experts to offer opinions and ideas on the overall set up.
1) Keep the original kitchen light where it is. Move the back, under cabinet light, placing it above one bed/bench. Then tap into the moved light wiring and add an additional light over the other bed. I would update these back lights to modern, low watt lights for night time reading. I REALLY, REALLY don't wish to remove the camper skin and rewire my entire camper if this plan will work and the lights will be safely wired. Of course I will add proper junction boxes.
2)in the kitchen I would like to remove the extension cord set up and run wiring for a dorm fridge receptacle and a microwave receptacle as well as an additional receptacle for charging electronics, etc. I noticed that the original kitchen light fixture has a plug in it, but I would be uncomfortable using it. I plan to take much, if not all of the current kitchen framing out and reconfigure the kitchen. (I hear the GASP of you purists out there, sorry, practicality is gonna win this time.) I would GREATLY prefer to channel the new wiring from the closet to the kitchen area using conduit placed ABOVE the birch siding and not beneath it. All new wiring would be hidden in the closet and behind the new kitchen eliminating the need to remove birch or camper skin.
3) the birch ceiling around the vent fan has become water damaged, it could be that I left the vent cracked and rain leaked in, or it could be the vent needs to be re sealed. To be on the safe side I plan to remove the vent, reseal and reinforce it. At that time I would like to move the battery placement.
My my idea here is to cut the damaged birch ceiling out in a section running from the vent to the closet wall. This way I could run wire from the vent into the closet and down to a location holding the battery either in the closet or outside in a box on the trailer tongue.
4) I recently had the brakes retooled, properly wired and the correct plug put on to allow for connection to the brake controller and 12 volt recharge. There is, however, no wiring in the camper from the battery to this plug. So I would like to set that up and I have no idea how to do that.
5)Here's the really big questions...
a) I would also like to be able to switch at LEAST the lights over to run off the battery when I'm at a site with no hook ups.
b) It'd be icing on the cake if I could also have the extra receptacle on the battery when needed and
c) the cherry on the cake if the fridge & microwave receptacles could be available. My guess, however, is use of even one of the appliances would drain the battery too fast.
6) Oh and just to be really spoiled, It'd be great to use the solar panel I was given. I'd like to be able to set it out when weather permitted to maintain a charge on the battery.
Regarding my skill level: I installed the wiring in my pottery studio including wiring for kilns so I have some understanding of electrical. However I've never worked with 12 volt or 110 and I want to get multiple sources of info and feedback. Anything I'm not completely sure of I would have an electrician do and/or check my work. Which leads me to ask...
for advice, feedback and recommendations. I also want you vintage trailer experts to offer opinions and ideas on the overall set up.
