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Post by Teachndad on Oct 31, 2014 15:50:55 GMT -8
Hi, How do I remove or minimize creases and or dents in the aluminum skin? I have come across references to pounding them out, but no specifics. What tools are needed? My assumption would be to place the skin outside facing down on the floor like a smooth interior concrete floor, then place a piece of wood on top of the crease or dent and hit that with a hammer. Metal or rubber mallet? Below is the picture of the rear skin. Note the running from the right side under the tail light holes to the center. This is my main concern here, but my trailer has several dents elsewhere. Thank you, Rod  |
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Oct 31, 2014 16:53:47 GMT -8
You will never make it look nice. The big creases will be replaced with hundreds of little dings and dents.
The way to fix it is to replace the panel. It costs under $20 per liner foot for a four foot wide panel. That trailer is likely 6.5 feet wide, plus some to bend and staple, means you need about seven feet wide, times $20 bucks, or about $140 or less for the panel below the window.
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mobiltec
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I make mistakes so you don't have to...
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 31, 2014 17:41:03 GMT -8
Yep this is aluminum and thin aluminum at that. It stretches a lot more than other metals and does not like to go back to it's original shape very easily. It oil cans. That means you pound it back to shape and then it just pops right back again. And you can't fix that by heating it. The stuff will just burn. Some things are just better replaced if and when you can afford it. Bondo will work for very small dings but even then it can pop out without warning because of the expansion and contraction of the metal in hot and cold weather.
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Post by Teachndad on Nov 2, 2014 11:12:17 GMT -8
Hi,
Just an update. I took a chance. I took the rear panel into my classroom and placed it on the smooth linoleum floor which sits on a solid foundation of concrete. No bumps or rough spots. I wouldn't have done it on my driveway or the sidewalk, as the surface is too rough. I then took a rubber mallet and a piece of oak framing left over from a kitchen remodel a few years ago and pounded on that laying it lengthwise over the crease and pounded away with care. It reduced the depression in the creases by at least half. It's not as prominent, now. There were some small dents, which I did the same thing, but used the end of the oak piece (3/4" x 2" x 36") and hammered that like a stake making sure to keep it has vertical as possible.
All in all I was happy with it. It's not going to be full restoration worthy, but it looks better now than it did. Will it oil can? I will find out when it goes back on... some day. I figured since it's the last piece to go back on, I could take my chances. If it's badly oil canning, then I can get a whole new rear skin when I can afford to.
Just an aside, I found what was probably the original color for the top half of the trailer, a sandlewoodish color under some reflectors that were screwed into the rear skin above the tail light holes. Now, to figure out if the yellow specks under the J-rail indicate the original color below the W insignia, or is it the teal under the paint on the propane tank holder. 
Cheers
Rod
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