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Post by lichenvintage on Sept 28, 2014 8:11:19 GMT -8
A question for anyone on the roof..I've removed the entire roof, (tar, aluminum and plywood) from the roof of my 1956 Travelite…After rewiring for 110 and 12 volt, I've installed new blue foam insulation and capped it off with 1/2" plywood instead of the original 3/8" weak plywood. I'm about to start reinstalling the aluminum panels on the roof and I understand the importance of the butyl tape. Once installed, I will be coating the entire roof with the 2 part epoxy coating to seal everything up. My question is about the use of tar paper between the aluminum and the plywood. I like the idea of using the tar paper before the aluminum goes down, but my concern lies with the possible sweating and condensation. (I did leave the original kraft paper vapor barrier that was stapled to the joists between the joists and the plywood.) I've seen attics sweat that weren't properly vented. Any input from anyone doing or not doing this. Any input is much appreciated.
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John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Sept 28, 2014 9:46:21 GMT -8
Thanks for the post…A question for anyone on the roof..I've removed the entire roof, (tar, aluminum and plywood) from the roof of my 1956 Travelite…After rewiring for 110 and 12 volt, I've installed new blue foam insulation and capped it off with 1/2" plywood instead of the original 3/8" weak plywood. I'm about to start reinstalling the aluminum panels on the roof and I understand the importance of the butyl tape. Once installed, I will be coating the entire roof with the 2 part epoxy coating to seal everything up. My question is about the use of tar paper between the aluminum and the plywood. I like the idea of using the tar paper before the aluminum goes down, but my concern lies with the possible sweating and condensation. (I did leave the original kraft paper vapor barrier that was stapled to the joists between the joists and the plywood.) I've seen attics sweat that weren't properly vented. Any input from anyone doing or not doing this. Any input is much appreciated. Two things to consider.
The metal skin will be cold on the outside, and the trailer will be warm on the inside. This causes condensation on the INSIDE of the skin. I like to use a Tyvek (or generic brand) house wrap on the framework, and the ridgid Styrofoam insulation, before I install the outer skin. Anything you can do to insulate and seal "the hot air, from the cold" will help.
The second, MAKE SURE that you do not end up rebuilding the trailer TOO BIG by adding to the size with different materials, as it sounds like you plan to re-skin it with the original material. We have all made this simple mistake at times.
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mobiltec
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I make mistakes so you don't have to...
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Sept 28, 2014 14:06:04 GMT -8
Why the two part epoxy? The top skin rattles and waves and vibrates and wiggles and ripples while towing. What will that do to the epoxy?
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Post by vikx on Sept 28, 2014 22:16:09 GMT -8
I agree with Mobiletec. Coating the roof is unnecessary and likely to cause metal rot in the end. (once loosened, water creeps under and does a number on the aluminum)
Please do more research before coating the entire roof...
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