annbclay
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1961 Shasta Compact
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Post by annbclay on Sept 10, 2014 7:34:59 GMT -8
Well it's time to get back to repairs now that it's a tiny bit cooler down here in SC humidity hell!
So priority #1 is stopping the leaking in the roof vent.
facts: 1964 Shasta Compact, newer style electric fan roof vent.
The story: when I first got her she didn't seem to leak, but I went camping in the mountains this June and it rained off and on every day, (of course). It was still hot so I had to use the vent for air circulation but I kept the lid barely open. I don't think that was the cause of the leak, could be but still... After I took a good look at the vent from inside I can see that it's loose between the layers of ceiling and skin. In other words they didn't make a tight trim around the vent to keep the skin and birch tightly separated and the vent firmly in place. I can push up on the ceiling around the vent and it gives. A fellow vintage camper owner looked at it and said "you need to reinstall the vent or somehow trim around it to prevent any movement in the ceiling. Get it tight"
The questions:
Do I need to uninstall completely? Ugh. Or put a 1x2 strip of trim all the way around the vent. If trim, inside or outside? What should I use to seal it? I know... NO SILICONE, but what ?
Any other suggestions on how to best tackle this problem? I'm a newbie at renovation and would like to do it well but want to minimize the amount of invasive surgery! I'm trying to prevent pulling off birch if at all possible and am not skilled enough to open up the skin.
ill post some pics in a minute when I figure out how.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Sept 10, 2014 8:20:36 GMT -8
Ann, I have a few questions for you.
How was the (I'm guessing Fantastic?) vent installed, ie: Did you do it exactly like in the directions? They are very specific as to how to do it, without any problems. The final step is to use a urethane sealant around the edge and screws, like Proflex 635 which is made by Trempro.
I'm concerned about your comment, that the "ceiling moves". If the ceiling moves, and the fan vent is ridgid, it's going to leak. The ceiling/roof needs to be ridgid. Having good wood in the roof, and the combination of having the closet and kitchen cabinets very well tied into the roof/walls is what supports the roof. I would also check the roof for flatness. Take a eight foot long straight edge and lay it across the roof near the vent. It should be flat, or ideally have a slight crown for the water to runoff. If the roof has a dip at the vent, you will never get it sealed up. This is the reason that Vikx shims the vent framing up between the skin and the roof framing.
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annbclay
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Post by annbclay on Sept 10, 2014 8:45:07 GMT -8
I did not install the vent, the previous owner did. Im not certain how precise she was.
I guess -the ceiling moves- is an incorrect description, more like when the ceiling was damp I was able to push up on it, it wasn't firm as though a solid base of wood was beneath it. More like it was hollow between the skin and the ceiling birch. right now the ceiling birch is dry and crispy so I did not press up on it, I am able to pull the plastic flange of the vent down and put my fingers between it and the birch. I have not checked the roof flatness outside, I will do that. I guess if there is a dip towards the vent I will have to uninstall it and make the roof arch up again. I want to post some pics but I can't figure out how to get them off my computer and out of my photo stream to have a URL address. Flickr is giving me all sorts of problems. anyone have any ideas?
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Sept 10, 2014 9:09:16 GMT -8
Ann, the best method is to remove the interior trim ring (it's only for looks), and remove the vent entirely. Sounds like it needs to be resealed anyway, since you have a leak. It's not difficult or time consuming. Just use normal RV putty tape.
Take a look at the condition of the roof wood framing while the vent is removed and you can lift the aluminum skin up. Go online to Fantastic, and get a copy of their directions for installation.
You might need to shim the framing around the vent to get the needed runoff. Checking with a straight edge will tell the story.
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annbclay
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Post by annbclay on Sept 10, 2014 9:13:11 GMT -8
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annbclay
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Post by annbclay on Sept 10, 2014 9:28:35 GMT -8
ok, thanks John, that sounds a bit easier than I expected. where do I get the RV putty tape?
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Sept 10, 2014 9:40:51 GMT -8
ok, thanks John, that sounds a bit easier than I expected. where do I get the RV putty tape? Any "good" ACE, or True Value hardware store will stock it. It will take most of a full $8.00 roll, to do a vent. |
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annbclay
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Post by annbclay on Sept 10, 2014 10:03:23 GMT -8
excellent
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Post by vikx on Sept 10, 2014 22:46:34 GMT -8
I agree with John. Remember, the vent leaks at the roof line, so it needs to be pulled with proper putty/sealant in place.
Check the rafters and vent framing as suggested. If there is rot, it will need to be addressed.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Sept 11, 2014 6:42:04 GMT -8
ok, thanks John, that sounds a bit easier than I expected. where do I get the RV putty tape? If you can't find it locally, like me, you can order it from Amazon. |
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Sept 11, 2014 6:49:21 GMT -8
One note about the framing of the vents in the early Shastas, it's bad. I think this is a Vikx term, but it is floated, meaning the framing around the vent is not connected to rafters all the way around. That could be one reason your ceiling moves. Only one side of the vent framing around mine was connected to a rafter. There is nothing to keep the other side from flexing. I added an additional rafter and boxed in the vent framing.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Sept 11, 2014 7:58:46 GMT -8
One note about the framing of the vents in the early Shastas, it's bad. I think this is a Vikx term, but it is floated, meaning the framing around the vent is not connected to rafters all the way around. That could be one reason your ceiling moves. Only one side of the vent framing around mine was connected to a rafter. There is nothing to keep the other side from flexing. I added an additional rafter and boxed in the vent framing. Susie, Very good point, and just one more reason I choose to hate Shasta's.
Signed "The Shasta Hater" LOL
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annbclay
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Post by annbclay on Sept 11, 2014 15:13:25 GMT -8
Ok thanks for all the extra tips, that will help. It sounds like in order to add bracing rafters I'm going to have to remove some of the ceiling birch. Not a happy prospect. Anyone have suggestions about replacing it? Current resources in the south east?
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Sept 11, 2014 18:26:11 GMT -8
Ok thanks for all the extra tips, that will help. It sounds like in order to add bracing rafters I'm going to have to remove some of the ceiling birch. Not a happy prospect. Anyone have suggestions about replacing it? Current resources in the south east? OK Ann, now you have hit my hot button. LOL
I'm sure some will say "it can be done" from the inside, but IMO, the only correct way to make a roof framing repair on a "stick and tin" type trailer is from the outside. You have to go in the reverse of how the trailer was originally assembled. Anything done from the inside is a shortcut!
It's not possible to do "as good of a repair" by ripping out the paneling from the inside. You will never have the panels securely attached to the framing, as you could do if you did the same repair from the outside, where the panels "over lap the wall edges". The panels add considerable structural rigidity to the framework. Trailer's done from the inside, "always look like they were done from the inside", it's easy to spot one.
I'm also not convinced that it's even faster, or cheaper done from the inside.
If you pull the J Rail off, bend up and completely flatten the roof skin edges (very important so they do not crack), then just roll the roof skin towards the back of the trailer in about a 18" roll, clamp both edges so it does not unroll, leave the roof skin sitting on top of the trailer. Toss a rope around it if working outside so the wind cannot catch the loose skin. This is a "one man procedure" that I do on every trailer, and you can then fix the rafter problem correctly.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Sept 11, 2014 18:46:06 GMT -8
Ok thanks for all the extra tips, that will help. It sounds like in order to add bracing rafters I'm going to have to remove some of the ceiling birch. Not a happy prospect. Anyone have suggestions about replacing it? Current resources in the south east? Yes, what John said about the roof. There is no way to replace or add rafters without getting under the skin from the outside. Finding 1/8" birch in the Southeast will be a problem. 1/4" is easy to find but may require kerfing (making shallow cuts across it so it will bend) and it will throw off the fit of the existing skin a bit. |
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