gryffendorfen
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1962 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by gryffendorfen on Jul 28, 2014 15:48:25 GMT -8
Me again... last question for the night (I promise!) I have a couple questions about restoring light fixtures. First, for safety, do all the innards of the fixtures need replacing, like the sockets, plugs, and wires? Or is it sufficient to just replace the wiring to and from the fixtures? Second, rust on the metal left pits that will not come out. Are the fixtures chrome, or is it some other finish? If chromed, has anyone had fixtures re-chromed?   |
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John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 28, 2014 19:53:20 GMT -8
Re-Chrome is prohibitively expensive. You can use a 3M red metal buffing pad on a angle grinder and prep the metal for primer, and then shoot it with Hammertone paint of your color choice. Gold or Silver look good. The Hammertone paint has a texture to it, and hides the pits in the metal base.
If the socket is not broken, I'd reuse it. I would cut the wires on the plug and just reinstall the plug to fill the hole, but not connect it because it does not have a grounding terminal. You will likely be adding additional receptacles during your rewiring anyway.
I'd replace the switch because it's a "wear part", it's cheap and easy to find at any hardware store.
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mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 4, 2014 19:16:59 GMT -8
Many times I will just buy new and add the push button switch to it by drilling a hole. Be careful drilling the hole. Get the insulation out of the way for the bit and hang on to the lamp with a tight grip or use padding and mount it in a vice to drill. The drill can catch as it goes through and the thing can get out of control.
#0000 Steel Wool usually get's those things looking like new though. Just like Susie's.
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John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 576
Currently Offline
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Post by John Palmer on Aug 4, 2014 19:43:25 GMT -8
Many times I will just buy new and add the push button switch to it by drilling a hole. Be careful drilling the hole. Get the insulation out of the way for the bit and hang on to the lamp with a tight grip or use padding and mount it in a vice to drill. The drill can catch as it goes through and the thing can get out of control. #0000 Steel Wool usually get's those things looking like new though. Just like Susie's.
First, let me say that I'm totally against gimmicky tools. Almost every tool advertised on TV falls into this category.
One tool that is a "new, modern" design, that falls into my MUST HAVE list, is a "step drill bit", I like the "original ones" made by Irwin Tools, but like everything that works well, they get copied, made cheaper, and sold at HF.
Using a "stepped bit" is the only way to drill a hole in thin sheet metal. It will drill a "round hole" every time, and not a "triangle hole" like a common fluted drill bit does. It "will not snag" like a regular drill bit. If you try one, you will swear by it, and likely want to invest in the better quality Irwin stepped bits. I have three or four different sizes, up to about 1 1/8". The 1/8" to 1/2" bit is the most commonly used, if you want to try just one at first. I drill a 1/8" pilot hole for a start, but some just use the stepped bit to start the hole.
I have no stock in this company (LOL), but you have to try one ASAP.
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mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 4, 2014 20:46:04 GMT -8
Many times I will just buy new and add the push button switch to it by drilling a hole. Be careful drilling the hole. Get the insulation out of the way for the bit and hang on to the lamp with a tight grip or use padding and mount it in a vice to drill. The drill can catch as it goes through and the thing can get out of control. #0000 Steel Wool usually get's those things looking like new though. Just like Susie's.
First, let me say that I'm totally against gimmicky tools. Almost every tool advertised on TV falls into this category.
One tool that is a "new, modern" design, that falls into my MUST HAVE list, is a "step drill bit", I like the "original ones" made by Irwin Tools, but like everything that works well, they get copied, made cheaper, and sold at HF.
Using a "stepped bit" is the only way to drill a hole in thin sheet metal. It will drill a "round hole" every time, and not a "triangle hole" like a common fluted drill bit does. It "will not snag" like a regular drill bit. If you try one, you will swear by it, and likely want to invest in the better quality Irwin stepped bits. I have three or four different sizes, up to about 1 1/8". The 1/8" to 1/2" bit is the most commonly used, if you want to try just one at first. I drill a 1/8" pilot hole for a start, but some just use the stepped bit to start the hole.
I have no stock in this company (LOL), but you have to try one ASAP.
Hey I'll be the first one to try that John. Thanks for the tip. Those triangle holes can be a pain. |
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Post by vikx on Aug 4, 2014 21:42:20 GMT -8
Me Two!!
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gryffendorfen
Junior Member
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1962 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by gryffendorfen on Aug 6, 2014 3:59:18 GMT -8
Those look great SusieQ! I tried steel wool on mine - it removed the small rust spots, but there are still large rust spots where the chrome had been eaten away. I'm contemplating either re-painting or replacing, as others have suggested.
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lakewoodgirl
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1954 Lakewood
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Post by lakewoodgirl on Aug 11, 2014 19:57:18 GMT -8
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